IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Photographic 

Sciences 
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J3  WBT  MA»N  l.TREET 

WeBSU..,!- Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions 


Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


1980 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  sttempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m6thode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


0   Coloured  covers/ 
Couvorture  de  couieur 

r~7|    Covers  damaged/ 


n 


n 

D 
D 


n 


Couverture  endommagde 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pellicul6e 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


1    Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  gdographiques  en  couieur 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couieur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couieur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  maigin/ 

La  reliure  serr6e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  int6rieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmdes. 


□    Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couieur 

□    Payi^s  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 

□    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restauries  et/ou  pellicul6es 


0 


D 
D 


Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  ddcolordes,  tachetdes  ou  piqudes 


□Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d^tachdes 

r~~l    Showthrough/ 
1  Y 1    Transparence 

I      I    Quality  of  print  varies/ 


Quality  in6gale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  matdriel  supplementaire 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  6dition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6x6  film6es  d  nouveau  de  fagon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


n 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppldmentaires: 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film6  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqui  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

|/ 

/■ 

12X 

16X 

20X                              24X                             28X                             32X 

tails 
(  du 
odifier 
une 
mage 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library 

Indian  and  Northern  Affairs 

The  images  appearing  here  are  t^e  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


L'exemplaire  film6  fut  reproduit  grAce  d  la 
g6nirosit6  de: 

BibliothAque 

Affaires  indiennes  et  du  Nord 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  6x6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetd  de  l'exemplaire  film6,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exempiaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprim6e  sont  film6s  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  jui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  ^Villustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exempiaires 
originaux  sont  filmdb  en  commen9ant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  -^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED "),  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END  "), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  ■^»>  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
film^s  6  des  taux  de  rdduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clich6,  il  est  film6  6  partir 
de  Tangle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  6  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  m^thode. 


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to 


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in  6 


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2 

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/ 


/&■ 


THE 


Cruise  OF  THE  Florence; 


OR, 


I! 

f 


EXTRACTS  FROM  THE  JOURNAL  OF  THE  PRE- 
LIMINARY  ARCTIC  EXPEDITION   OF 
.      1877-78.    ■ 


EDITED    BY 

Captain  H.  W,  Howgate,  U.  S.  A. 


WASHINGTON,  D.  C.  : 

James  J.  Chapman,  Publisher. 

1879. 


V- 


..''    \ 


NORTHERN  AFFAIRS 
&  NATIONA!  RESOURCES 

JUL  26  I960 

Norliiern  Affairs  Library 
OTTAWA 


Eiitored  accordinj?  to  Act  of  Congress,   in  the  year  1879,   by 

James  J.  ChaPxMan, 

In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington,  D.  C 


Thomas  McGill  &  Co., 

Printers  and  Sterentypers, 

Washington,  D.  C. 


•  Table  of  Contents. 


/ 


IXTRODL'CTORY, 


I'AOK. 


:    "  J^ART    flRST. 

New  Loxdov  to  Cl'mberl\xd  Gulf.  *>■ 


13 


J^ART    JSecOND. 
WlXTER    IX    CCMBERLAXD    GULF, 


J'art  Third. 


AXXAXATOOK    TO   DiSCO, 


152 


J^ART    ^OURTH. 


Homeward  Bouxd, 


174 


. 


Introductory. 


( 


, 


A  number  of  public  spirited  and  generous  citizens  of 
the  United  States,  having  faith  in  the  success  of  the  colon- 
ization plan  as  a  means  of  Arctic  exploration,  and  believ- 
ing in  its  ultimate  approval  by  Congress,  in  substantial 
accordance  with  the  bill  reported  favorably  from  the  Com- 
mittee on  Naval  Affairs  of  the  House  of  Representatives  at 
the  last  session  of  the  Forty-fourth  Congress,  contributed 
from  their  private  means  a  sufficient  sum  for  the  purchase 
and  outfit  of  a  small  vessel  to  be  sent  to  the  Arctic  seas 
for  the  purpose  of  collecting  such  supplies  during  the 
ensuing  winter  as  might  be  useful  for  the  main  expedition 
of  1878,  if  that  expedition  should  be  authorized.  It  was 
at  first  intended  to  limit  the  mission  of  this  vessel  to  the 
collection  of  material  only,  but  the  op'portunity  for  scien- 
tific investigation  was  so  inviting,  and  the  added  cost  in- 
curred thereby  so  very  trifling  in  comparison  with  the 
results  to  be  attained,  that  space  was  made  on  board  for 
two  observers  and  their  necessary  apparatus.  One  of  these 
observers  was  selected  upon  the  recommendation  of  Pro- 
fessor Elias  Loomis,  of  Yale  College,  and  instructed  to  pay 
especial  attention  to  meteorological  phenomena  ;  while  the 
other  was  selected  as  naturalist  of  the  expedition  by  Pro- 
fessor Spencer  F.  Baird,  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution, 
from  whom  he  received  special  instructions. 


mm 


6 


INTRODUCTORY. 


Captain  Oeorjjjc  E.  Tyson,  who  served  on  board  the 
PoJiirLs  with  Captain  Hall,  was  intrnsted  with  the  task  of 
selecting  a  suitable  vessel  for  the  preliminary  expedition, 
which,  while  large  enough  to  accomplish  the  desired  ob- 
jects, would  not  exceed  in  cost  the  sum  available  for  its 
purchase  and  outfit.  After  careful  examination  he  selected 
the  Florence,  of  New  liondon,  a  schooner  of  fifty-six  tons 
burden,  which  was  purchased  upon  his  recommendation, 
and  the  work  of  strengthening  her  for  ice  navigation  at 
once  conuiienced  under  his  personal  supervision.  It  was  at 
first  hoped  to  have  the  vessel  ready  for  sailing  on  the  2oth 
of  July,  but  the  illness  of  Captain  Tyson  and  the  preva- 
lence of  rainy  weather  delayed  her  until  the  morning  of 
August  3,  upon  which  date  she  sailed  with  a  full  crew  and 
complete  outfit  for  one  year's  work,  including  the  neces- 
sary apparatus  for  a  whaling  vjyage  on  a  small  scale,  as 
it  was  proposed  that  the  vessel  should  bring  on  her  return 
voyage  a  cargo  of  bone  and  oil,  and  thus  make  the  enter- 
prise a  self-supporting  one  if  possible. 

The  public  interest  evinced  in  the  proposed  station  with- 
in the  Arctic  circle  has  been  very  gratifying  from  the  first, 
and  the  fitting  out  of  the  preliminary  expedition  brought 
applications  in  great  numbers,  both  personal  and  by  letter, 
from  parties  desirous  of  accompanying  it  as  members  of 
the  crew,  as  passengers,  or  in  any  capacity  that  would 
enable  them  to  share  in  the  prospective  perils  and  honors 
of  the  enterprise.  The  number  of  good  men  offered  was 
so  large  that  it  made  the  task  of  selection  a  difficult  one, 
but  it  is  believed  that  no  little  band  better  fitted  out  for 
the  work,  by  strong  frames,  courage,  and  endurance,  have 


INTRODUCTORY. 


«] 


ever  gone  forth  to  the  Arctic  seas  than  those  who  were 
finally  selected  and  who  sailed  upon  the  Florence. 

The  Florence  was  a  good  sea-boat,  staunch,  stout,  sea- 
worthy, and  a  fast  sailer,  and  was  thoroughly  strengthened 
for  her  encounters  with  the  ice.  The  supply  of  provisions 
and  other  stores  for  officers  and  crew  was  carefully  select- 
ed, and  with  proper  economy  would  have  proved  ample  for 
the  voyage.  Kind  friends  from  all  parts  of  the  country 
contributed  from  their  stores,  in  addition  to  articles  of 
food  and  clothing,  a  liberal  supply  of  )»ooks  and  papers  to 
while  avay  the  long,  weary  hours  of  the  si.nless  Arctic  win- 
ter. A  spare  berth  in  the  forecastle  was  filled  with  story- 
books, histories,  novels,  and  voluines  of  })retry ;  a  large 
trunk  was  filled  to  overflowing  with  papi.Ti.  and  still  another 
was  loaded  down  with  magazines :  tlie  whole  making  a 
library  of  considerable  dimensions.  The  iieads  of  several 
departments  of  the  Government  manifested  aTvindly  inter- 
est in  the  expedition,  not  merely  by  verbal  approval,  but 
by  substantial  aid.  The  different  bureaus  of  the  War  De- 
partment, acting  under  the  authority  of  the  Secretary  of 
War,  were  particularly  active  in  the  matter.  The  Ord- 
nance Office  furnished  rifles  and  nuiskets  and  necessary 
ammunition.  The  Chief  Signal  Officer  of  the  Arniy  sup- 
plied a  complete  outfit  of  necessary  instruments  for  mak- 
ing meteorological  observations.  The  Surgeon  -  General 
furnished  a  supply  of  medicines  and  the  necessary  minor 
surgical  instruments  for  use  in  case  of  accidents  to  mem- 
bers  of  the  expedition,  and  the  Quartermaster  -  General 
furnished  tents  and  camp  e'";uipage.  The  Secretary  of  the 
Navy  furnished  a  complete  outfit  of  maps,  charts,  and  sail- 


V  I        f 


INTRODUCTORY. 


ing  directions.  To  these  heads  of  departments  and  bureaus 
the  grateful  thanks  of  the  friends  of  Arctic  exploration  are 
due  for  their  timely  and  efficient  aid. 

The  following  instructions,  furnished  to  Captain  Tyson 
upon  the  day  of  sailing,  will  give  an  idea  of  the  aim,  objects, 
and  scope  of  this  preliminary  expedition  : 

Washington,  July  IG,  1877. 
Captain  Gi:orge  E.  Tyson, 

Commandin};  Preliminary  Arctic  Expedition  of  1877, 
New  Loudon,  Conn. 

Sir:  The  command  of  tlie  schooner  Florence^  of  the  Prelim- 
inary Arctic  Expedition  of  1877,  is  intrnsted  to  yon,  and  the 
officers  and  men  forming  tlie  crew  are  enjoined  to  render  t^trict 
obedience  to  your  orders. 

In  tlie  event  of  your  deatli  while  on  this  expecUtion — an  event 
which  is  to  be  devoutly  hoped  may  not  occur  —  the  command 
will  devolve  npon  the  tirst  mate,  and  shonid  he  also  be  disabled 
or  die,  npon  the  second  mate;  and  such  snrvivor  will  carry  ont 
to  the  best  of  his  ability  the  objects  of  the  expedition,  keeping 
a  stout  heart  and  committing  himsel*  and  comrades  to  the  care 
of  Divine  Providence. 

THE  OBJECT  OF   THE  EXPEDITION. 

The  primary  ol)ject  of  the  expedition  is  the  collection  of  ma- 
teiial  for  the  use  of  the  future  colony  on  the  shores  of  Ladv 
Franklin  Bay.  This  material  will  consist  of  Esquimaux  to  the 
number  of  ten  families,  if  that  number  can  be  obtained  of  young, 
strong,  healtliy  persons  willing  to  be  transferred  to  the  location 
of  the  future  colony;  of  dogs,  not  less  than  twenty-five  in  imm- 
ber,  mostly  females,  and  selected  for  their  docility,  training, 
strength,  and  einbu'ance ;  of  sledges,  two  in  number,  and  com- 
pletely and  carefully  fitted  up  for  tiavel;  and  of  clothing  in 
ample  quantities  to  supply  fifty  persons  for  tlir<'e  years.  The 
clothing  will  be  carefully  selected,  of  choice  furs  and  skins,  and 


INTRODUCTORY. 


9 


all  made  up  by  native  women.  The  secondary  object  of  the 
expedition  is  the  collection  of  scientific  data  and  specimens,  as 
the  field  is  a  new  one  and  possessing  nnusiial  interest. 

WHALING  EN  VOYAGE. 

The  third,  and  to  the  crew  most  iiiterestino-  object,  is  the  cap- 
ture of  a  sufficient  amount  of  bone  and  oil  to  make  a  profitable 
retiirn  cargo;  and  this  part  of  the  work  is  so  completely  within 
\'onr  own  province  that  I  will  not  venture  to  give  any  instruc- 
tions. I  must  caution  j'ou,  however,  to  be  on  3^our  guard  against 
letting  the  piu'suit  of  gain  interfere  in  an}'  manner  with  the  suc- 
cessful issue  of  the  two  first-named  objects  of  the  expedition.  It 
is  from  them  that  the  lasting  results  of  tlie  voyage  will  be  ob- 
tained and  the  interests  of  science  and  commerce  best  subserved. 
The  precise  locality  of  your  winter  qnartei-s  is  left  in  a  great 
measm-e  to  your  judgment,  but  should  probabl\'  be  on  the  nortli- 
ern  side  of  Cumberland  Island.  In  making  the  selection,  if  the 
state  of  the  weather  and  condition  of  the  ice  leave  any  choice,  the 
locality  should  be  that  which  is  best  adapted  for  the  collection  of 
supplies,  and  which  otters  th(»  bt>st  facilities  for  breaking  out  in 
the  summer  of  187S  in  time  to  reach  Disco  b}'  August  1,  if  possi- 
ble, and  certainly  not  later  than  August  G. 

CARING   FOR  THE  NATIVES  AND  DOGS. 

Provision  must  be  made  for  tlie  proper  maintenance  and  care 
of  the  natives  who  are  to  become  members  of  the  futine  polar 
colony;  and  also  of  the  dogs  which  are  to  form  so  important  a 
part  of  the  outfit  of  that  colony.  They  nnist  be  quartered  as 
comfortably  as  the  limited  accommodations  of  the  schooner  will 
permit,  fed  well,  and  kept  thoroughly  clean. 

THE   SCIENTISTS. 

The  two  scientific  meuibers  of  the  expedition,  while  not  form- 
ing, strictly  speaking,  a  part  of  the  crew,  will,  in  case  of  neces- 
sity, be  required  to  perform  duty,  and  will  at  ail  times  be  sub- 
ject to  your  orders  and  discipline  Every  proper  facility  will 
be  given  i,l»em  in  the  discharge  of  their  respective  duties,  and  to 


■p 


^ 


10 


INTRODUCTORY. 


aid  in  securina:  full  aiul  valuable  results  from  their  labors.  Mr. 
Slierman  will  have  cliarge  of  the  meteorological  instruments, 
observations,  anil  records,  and  of  the  pliotographic  ai)i)aratn3 
and  work.  In  both  of  these  duties  it  is  my  wish  tliat  you  sliould 
aid  him  cheerfully  and  constantly,  and  in  the  event  of  his  sick- 
ness, or  inability,  from  any  cause,  to  attend  to  his  observations, 
to  make  sucli  arrangements  as  will  insure  a  continuous  series 
of  the  most  important  ones.  The  utmost  caution  nuist  be  exei-- 
cised  in  handling  the  delicate  instruments,  to  guard  against  their 
breakage  or  other  injury  and  the  consequent  interruption  of  the 
observations.  Tlie  results  of  th«  photographic  work  will  be  very 
interesting  to  the  general  public  as  well  as  to  the  scientific  stu- 
dent, and  ever}'  opportunity  should  be  taken  to  secure  good 
negatives  of  places,  localities,  and  objects,  and  also  of  the  difi'er- 
ent  operations  connected  with  the  pursuit  and  capture  of  whales, 
seals,  &c.  Mr.  Kumlein,  who  goes  as  the  representative  of  the 
Smithsonian  Institution,  under  the  instructions  of  Professor 
Spencer  F.  Buird,  the  distinguished  naturalist,  for  the  purpose 
of  collecting  specimens  of  the  flora  and  fauna  of  the  couiitr}', 
will  be  accorded  the  most  ample  facilities  for  the  performance 
of  his  duties  consistent  with  a  proper  regard  for  the  main  object 
of  the  expedition.  His  labors,  if  properly  supjiorted  and  reason- 
ably successful,  will  prove,  it  is  hoped,  of  lasting  advantage,  and 
make  the  expedition  a  notable  one  in  scientific  ainials. 

THE  EXPEDITION  OF   1878. 

On  reaching  Disco  in  August,  1878,  if  the  vessel  carrvinit'  the 
members  and  outfit  of  the  colony  has  arrived,  you  will  transfer 
to  such  vessel  the  Esquimaux,  dogs,  sledges,  and  clothi'ig  col- 
lected for  the  purpose,  and  take  the  commanding  ofiicer's  receipt 
for  the  same.  This  l)eing  done,  you  will  return  as  rapidly  as 
possible  to  New  London,  whence  j'ou  will  n^port  by  telegraph 
to  me  at  AVashington,  D.  C,  for  further  orders.  If  the  coloni- 
zation vessel  has  not  arrived,  you  will  wait  for  it  until  August  15, 
when  you  will  store  the  sledges  and  clothing  to  the  care  of  the 
Governor  of  Disco ;  leave  the  dogs  also  in  his  care,  and  return 


INTRODUCTORY. 


11 


the  natives  to  their  home  on  Cumberland  Ishmd.  This  done, 
j-on  will  return  to  New  London  and  report,  as  before,  for  in- 
structions. 

Should  any  of  your  crew  wish  to  accompany  the  colonization  ves- 
sel, you  will  grant  them  permission  to  do  so,  with  the  consent  of  the 
comuKinder  of  that  expedition,  and  provided  you  retain  enough 
men  to  bring  the  Floirnce  safely  back  to  the  United  States. 

TEMPERANCE. 

Great  care  must  be  exercised  in  the  use  of  spirituous  liquors, 
both  among  the  members  of  the  expedition  and  in  dealing  with 
the  natives.  Useful  as  liquor  undoubtedly  is  in  itc  place,  and 
inider  suitable  restrictions,  it  is  easily  capable  of  the  niost  fright- 
ful abuse,  and  of  leading  this  expedition  to  disaster,  as  it  has 
done  others  in  the  past.  1  trust  in  your  strong  good  sense  and 
past  experience  to  guard  against  danger  from  this  soui-ce,  and 
desire  you  to  know  that  I  have  only  permitted  a  sup[)ly  in 
quantity  of  liqu«)rs  to  form  part  of  the  Florence's  <"utlit  in  defer- 
ence to  yoiir  own  strongly-expressed  wishes. 

DEALING  WITH  THE  AliORICilNES. 

In  dealing  with  the  natives  it  is  my  wish,  as  doubtless  it  is 
yoin-  inclination,  that  you  should  be  kind  and  liberal  to  the 
extent  of  your  means  and  ability,  and  in  all  points  of  diftercnce. 
shoidd  any  arise,  to  be  just,  but  firm. 

FINAL. 

Bear  constantly  in  mind  the  fact  that  this  is  not  a  whaling 
voyage,  but  the  first  step  in  a  work  that  will,  I  trust,  when  com- 
pleted, be  a  noteworthy  one  in  the  annals  of  geographical  and 
scientific  discovery.  This  fact  should  also  be  carefidly  impressed 
upon  the  crew,  in  order  that  they  may  work  intelligently  and 
with  proper  interest. 

Be  careful  of  the  health  of  your  men,  using  such  measures  for 
the  purpose  as  your  long  experience  in  Arctic  waters  suggests  as 
necessary. 

In  conclusion,  I  commend  youi'self  and  crew  to  the  care  of  an 


12 


INTRODUCTORY. 


All-wise  Power,  with  the  prayer  that  your  voyage  may  be  pros- 
perous and  your  return  a  safe  aud  happy  one. 

H.  W.   HOWGATE, 
•  United  States  Army. 

Sailing  from  New  London  on  August  3,  1877,  the  Flor- 
ence reached  St.  Johns,  Newfoundland,  on  her  homeward 
voyage,  September  26,  1878.  Here  she  remained,  making 
such  repairs  as  had  been  rendered  necessary  by  the  rough 
weather,  until  the  12th  of  October,  when  she  sailed  for 
home,  encountering  a  succession  of  storms,  during  which 
anxious  friends  mourned  for  those  on  board  as  lost.  She 
fortunately  rode  out  the  storms  in  safety,  and,  after  touch- 
ing at  Provincetown,  Massachusetts,  October  26,  for  sup- 
plies, dropped  anchor  in  New  London  harbor  on  the  morn- 
ing of  the  30th,  after  an  absence  of  fifteen  months. 

Although  the  voyage  was  not  a  profitable  one  financially, 
owinjj  to  the  unusual  scarcitv  of  whales  in  Cumberland 
Gulf,  in  other  respects  it  was  satisfactory. 

Clothing  was  accumulated,  dogs  purchased,  and  the  serv- 
ices of  a  sufficient  number  of  the  natives  secured  for  the 
proposed  station  at  Lady  Franklin  Bay,  and  had  Congress 
granted  the  desired  assistance,  the  Polar  mystery  would  by 
this  date  have  been  solved. 

The  following  extracts  from  (>aptain  Tyson's  official  jour- 
nal are  published,  to  complete  in  detail  the  record  of  the 
expedition. 

The  scientific  results  of  the  voyage  will  be  soon  given  to 
the  public.  The  report  of  the  naturalist  is  now  running 
through  the  press,  while  that  of  the  meteorologist  is  nearly 
ready  for  the  printer.  •  « 


t 


The  Cruise  of  the  Florence. 


]^EW    J-ONDON    TO    pUMBERLAND    pULF. 

In  the  spring  of  1877,  nearly  live  years  after  my 
return  from  the  Polaris  Expedition,  Captain  H.  W. 
Howgate,  of  the  United  States  Army,  conceived  the 
plan  of  forming  a  colony  in  the  Arctic  regions  for 
scientific  observations,  and  also  for  the  purpose  of 
reaching  the  North  Pole,  if  possible.  With  this  end 
in  view,  he  had  many  consultations  with  me  and  oth- 
ers relative  to  the  subject  and  the  best  mode  of  car- 
rying it  to  a  successful  termination.  It  was  finally 
settled  that  he  would  either  charter  or  purchase  a 
small  vessel,  to  proceed  to  Cumberland  Gulf,  or  else- 
where, to  procure  Esquimaux,  dogs,  sledges,  and  all 
the  skins  and  skin-clothing  that  it  was  possible  to  ac- 
cumulate. The  Esquimaux  men  were  to  be  the  dog- 
tirivers  and  the  hunters  of  the  expedition ;  the  wc^men 
were  to  be  the  boot-makers  and  the  tailors.  The  em- 
ployment of  the  women  was  decided  upon  in  view  of 
the  fact  that  it  would  be  impossible,  or  very  difficult, 
to  induce  the  men  to  leave  their  native  mountains 


(^ 


14 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLOR  3NCE. 


I. 


without  their  wives  and  children.  The  preUminary, 
expedition  was  to  sail  one  year  previous  to  the  grand 
expedition,  which  it  was  supposed  would  start  in  the 
spring  of  1878.  It — the  preliminary — was  to  winter 
in  Cumberland  Gulf,  or  elsewhere,  where  Esquimaux 
and  the  above-mentioned  articles  could  be  found  and 
secured.  In  the  spring  of  1878,  the  vessel,  on  being 
relieved  from  her  winter  quarters,  was  to  proceed  di- 
rect to  Disco  Island,  on  the  coast  of  Greenland,  meet 
the  main  expedition  at. that  island,  transfer  whatever 
had  been  collected,  ^nd  return  home. 

Evervthinff  beins^  settled  as  to  the  future  of  the  ex- 
pedition,  should  Captain  Howgate  succeed  in  starting 
one,  a  subscription  list  was  opened  in  New  York  and 
elsewhere,  and  the  desired  amount  was  soon  collected, 
and  I  was  dispatched  to  procure  a  suitable  vessel  for 
the  purpose.  I  arrived  in  New  London,  Connecticut, 
in  the  latter  part  of  June,  and  there  found  the  schoon- 
er Florence,  belonging  to  Messrs,  Williams  &  Haven. 
The  Florence  had  recently  arrived  from  a  whaling  voy- 
age around  Cape  Horn,  and  the  lirm  was  desirous  of 
selling  her,  as  she  was  too  small  for  its  business.  I" 
thought  she  would  answer  the  desired  purpose,  and 
the  vessel  was  finally  purchased  for  the  sum  of  ^4,000. 
Mr.  Williams  generously  gave  $200  toward  the  enter- 
prise. It  was  getting  late  in  the  season,  and  it  was 
necessary  to  make  all  possible  haste  in  preparing  the 
vessel  for  sea  and  for  sailing  in  the  ice-ridden  waters 


( 


\\\ 


NEW  LONDON  TO  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


15 


of  Davis's  Strait.  This  wa^  accomplished  by  the  2d  of 
August,  and  with,  a  "  Farewell ! "  and  a  "  God  bless 
you ! "  to  our  loved  ones,  we  sailed  from  New  London 
harbor,  to  be  gone  probably  fourteen  months.  The 
crew  consisted  of  the  following  named  persons: 

Geoi'ge  E.  Tyson,  of  New  Jersey,  master. 

William  Sisson,  of  Connecticut,  tirst  officer. 

Denison  Burrows,  of  Connecticut,  second  officer.    ; 

Eleazor  Cone,  of  Connecticut,  steward. 

Richard  B.  York,  of  Connecticut,  seaman. 

WiUiam  A.  Albion,  of  Connecticut,  seaman. 

James  W.  Lee,  of  Connecticut,  ordinary  seaman. 

Joel  B.  Butler,  of  Connecticut,  seaman. 

Charles  H.  Fuller,  of  Connecticut,  green  hand. 

David  T.  Reese,  of  Connecticut,  ordinary  seaman. 

John  McPartland,  of  Connecticut,  ordinary  seaman. 

The  passengers  and  scientists  were  Orray  Taft  Sher- 
man and  Ludwig  Kumlein. 

The  mornins:  we  sailed  the  wind  was  to  the  east- 
ward,  but  we  managed  to  fetch  out  of  the  harbor  on 
the  port  tack,  and  also  through  the  race.  We  were 
accompanied  by  quite  a  number  of  friends  and  ac- 
quaintances, and  also  by  the  steam-tug  Wellington,  Cap- 
tain Waterman,  who  was  to  take  our  temporary  pas- 
sengers back.  My  little  boy  also  accompanied  me; 
but  soon  the  motion  of  the  schooner  made  him  sea- 
sick. I  attempted  to  console  him,  but  he  requested 
me  not  to  talk  to  him,  wIlq  the  remark  that  I  ought 


16 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


to  know  how  it  was  myself.  On  getting  well  through 
the  race,  and  our  friends  now  growing  rather  noisy,  I 
hailed  the  tug,  and,  heaving  the  schooner  to.  Captain  • 
Waterman  came  alongside,  and  our  friends,  bidding 
us  God-speed  and  a  safe  return,  left  us.  Man  is  sel- 
dom or  never  contented.  I  must  say  I  envied  them. 
They  were  going  back  to  their  friends  and  loved  ones, 
while  I  was  going  from  them. 

The  wind  was  still  to  the  eastward,  so  we  kept  beat- 
ing to  windward  through  the  day.  The  ebb-tide  swept 
us  out  so  that  by  midnight  we  were  well  clear  of  Mon- 
tauk  Point,  the  eastern  point  of  Long  Island. 

Nothing  of  note  occurred  until  the  8th  of  August, 
when  we  sighted  8ambro  Light.  It  was  comparative- 
ly calm  and  somewhat  foggy.  Occasionally  the  mist 
would  lift,  displaying  to  our  view  the  rock -bound 
coast  of  Nova  Scotia,  with  its  bold  headlands,  its  farm 
cottages,  and  the  light-house,  which  looks  like  some 
grim  giant  standing  sentinel.  It  was  my  intention  to 
go  through  the  straits  of  Belle  Isle,  to  shorten,  if  pos- 
sible, the  passage  north.  This  would  cut  oft* some  three 
hundred  miles,  and  I  was  in  a  hurry,  as  it  was  late  in 
the  summer,  and  we  should  at  that  date  have  been 
at  our  destination.  We  continued  beatinsc  alons^  the 
coast,  the  wind  remaining  in  the  eastern  quarter, — 
now  strong,  then  light ;  and  it  was  nearly  all  the  time 
foggy.  The  vessel  was  kept  close  in  with  the  land, — 
so  close,  indeed,  that  the  breakers  were  seldom  out  of 


NEW  LONDON  TO  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


1? 


hearing.     I  hoped  in  doing  this  to  get  a  breeze  from 
the  land. 

On  the  12th  of  August  it  was  still  foggy,  though  lift- 
ing occasionally.  At  10.30  a.  m.  we  passed  the  island 
(or,  rather,  rocks)  of  Scutari,  the  eastern  end  of  the 
coast  of  Nova  Scotia,  and  entered  the  Gulf  of  St.  Law- 
rence. From  the  12th  to  the  14th  we  had  light  east- 
erly wind  and  fog.  The  fog  lifting  on  the  14th,  we 
sighted  the  island  of  St.  Paul,  and  in  the  afternoon  the 
island  of  Newfoundland.  The  wind  still  remaining 
ahead,  we  had  a  dead  beat  of  it.  On  the  16th  the 
wind  blew  strong  and  the  weather  was  thick.  The 
schooner  was  brought  down  to  close-reefed  mainsail 
and  foresail,  with  bonnet  of  jib.  As  if  to  make  the 
weather  more  uncomfortable,  it  rained  in  torrents,  but 
without  abating  the  wind. 

On  Sunday,  August  19th,  the  wind  died  away,  but 
left  us  the  fog  and  rain.  The  schooner  was  very  deep, 
and  anything  but  comfortable  in  heavy  weather,  though 
she  acted  nobly  throughout.  As  the  straits  were  not 
altogether  free  from  danger,  I  hauled  up  and  bent  the 
larboard  chain.  I  hoped  it  would  not  be  needed,  but 
it  was  just  possible  that  it  might.  The  straits  of  Belle 
Isle  are  not  the  most  pleasant  place  in  which  to  get  on 
shore.  The  wind  continuing  from  the  south  and  east, 
we  made  but  slow  progress.  On  the  29th  the  fog 
lifted  for  a  few  minutes,  and  we  found  ourselves  in 
the  narrows  of  the  straits,  with  a  large  bark  in  com- 
2 


/ 

/ 


18 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


pany.  Beiu*]^  anxious  to  send  word  home,  I  watched 
my  opportunity,  and,  in  spite  of  the  fog,  luffed  close 
ahead  of  the  bark,  dropped  a  boat  and  sent  letters  on 
board.  She  was  bound  to  Europe,  and  had  been  eight- 
een days  endeavorins^  to  sret  out  of  the  straits,  but 
could  not  on  account  of  fog  and  head -winds.  The 
second  mate,  whom  I  sent  on  board  with  the  letters, 
did  not  ask  her  name,  so  I  am  unable  1o  give  it. 

On  the  return,  of  the  boat  we  bore  up  again.  The 
wind  was  light  and  variable,  and  the  fog,  if  anything, 
more  dense  than  ever.  Now  and  then  it  would  light 
up,  disclosing  to  our  view  the  shore,  the  huts  of  the 
tisliormen,  and  their  small  craft  moored  along  the 
shore.  Occasionally  the  fog  would  roll  over  us,  en- 
veloping us  in  its  disagreeable,  wet,  and  sombre  man- 
tle, and  then  the  fog-horns  would  send  forth  their  son- 
orous sounds  from  the  surrounding  vessels,  the  small 
craft  joining  in  the  chorus.  In  this  manner  we  kept 
along,  our  own  fog-horn  continually  going. 

On  the  22d  we  sis^hted  the  Belle  Isles,  —  Bis:  Belle 
and  Little  Belle.  I  wislied  to  land  on  one  or  both  of 
the  islands ;  but  being  some  distance  from  them,  and 
as  it  might  cause  a  long  delay,  if  not  worse  conse- 
quences, I  decided  not  to  do  so.  Towards  evening  a 
breeze  sprung  up  from  the  south-w^est,  with  rain.  We 
now  stood  out,  between  Great  Belle  and  Little  Belle, 
into  the  North  Atlantic  Ocean.  The  wind  soon  in- 
creased to  a  gale  and  brought  us  down  to  storm-sails. 


NEW  LONDON  TO  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


19 


The  next  day  it  was  still  blowing,  but  from  the  north- 
east. Toward  evening,  however,  it  moderated,  and 
hauled  to  the  south-east;  and  so  it  continued, — light 
breeze  from  the  south-east,  with  thick  fog  and  heavy 
swell;  then  light  breeze  from  the  north-east,  thick  fog 
and  heavy  swell.  In  fact,  we  had  light  breezes  from 
every  point  of  the  compass,  scarcely  ever  clear  of  fog, 
and  all  the  time  a  heavy  swell.  The  atmosphere  light- 
ed up  several  times,  however,  and  we  could  then  see 
the  land, — the  coast  of  Labrador, — which  was  not  far 
off.  It  seldom  remained  clear  for  more  than  an  hour 
at  a  time.  We  seemed  to  can-y  the  fog  with  us, — calm 
and  fog,  light  wind  and  log,  and  heavy  swell  all  the 
time;  so  heavy,  in  fact,  that  to  save  the  schooner's 
sails  I  lowered  them  and  tied  them  up,  to  keep  them 
from  slating  off  her.  This  weather  lasted  till  the  2d 
of  September,  with  nothing  to  break  the  monotony 
except  the  sight  of  two  icebergs.  On  the  2d  we  sight- 
ed Resolution  Island.  The  wind  ffave  us  a  slant  alonsf 
the  coast.  We  stood  across  the  mouth  of  Frobisher's 
Straits.  I  intended  to  enter  Coddini?  Bav,  and  to  sail 
thence  to  ^ew-gum-eute,  to  trade  for  skins,  and,  if 
possible,  to  get  some  Esquimaux;  but  my  hopes  were 
premature.  Again  the  fog  shut  down  thicker  than 
ever.  In  fact,  we  had  groped  our  way  in  the  dark 
from  Xew  London  to  Frobisher's  Straits,  and  were  vet 
in  the  darkness.  Here  we  were,  right  in  among  the  isl- 
and reefs,  which  lie  some  forty  miles  off  the  mainland,. 


i 


20 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


1 


11 


i 


with  Htrong  currcMts  and  bergs  without  nnmhor,  a  very 
heavy  swell  which  we  coiikl  hear  around  iis,  and  were 
yet  uncertain  whether  it  was  caused  by  the  rocks  or 
bergs.  ITauling  the  jib  to  the  mast, —  for  there  was  a 
hght  breeze  from  the  south-east,  —  we  hiy  quiet  all 
night,  except  now  and  then  keeping  off  for  a  supposed 
berg  or  an  island.  It  was  too  dense  to  distinguish 
which,  so  we  went  by  the  sound  of  the  breakers  and 
avoided  both. 

The  weather  continuing  bad,  we  finally  determined, 
as  it  was  getting  kite,  to  run  for  the  Gulf  of  Cumber- 
land, and  bore  up  on  the  4th.  Shortly  after,  hearing 
breakers  close  al)oard  and  directly  ahead,  lield  off  and 
passed  near  to  several  large  bergs,  against  which  the 
surf  was  breaking  furiously. 

After  clearing  these  mountains  of  ice  we  stood  along 
for  some  time,  when  breakers  were  again  heard.  This 
time  something  besides  ice  was  in  the  way.  It  proved 
to  be  one  of  the  many  islands  in  that  vicinity.  About 
the  same  time  we  sighted  the  island  we  discovered 
a  large  berg  directly  to  windward  and  close  to, — so 
close  that  I  could  have  thrown  a  biscuit  to  it.  It  was 
not  safe  to  put  the  helm  down  and  go  in  stays,  for  the 
schooner  would  have  gone  directly  into  the  berg,  and 
the  island  was  close  under  our  lee,  its  perpendicular 
side  dashing  the  spray  high  into  the  air.  There  was  a 
good  breeze,  and  we  were  on  the  wind.  We  could 
neither  luff  nor  keep  off,  but  must  go  between  the  berg 


<v 


NEW  LONDON  TO  CrMDERLANI)  r.ULF. 


21 


and 


and  tlie  island ;  and  this  we  did.  The  little  schooner 
shot  tlu'ough  like  a  thing  endowed  with  Ht'e,  and  in  an 
instant,  ahriost,  the  berg  and  island  were  hidden  IVoni 
view  in  the  fog.  Jnst  previous  to  this  we  kept  ofl'  to 
clear  what  we  thought  to  he  bergs ;  but  on  getting  to 
leeward  of  them  the  fog  lifted  a  very  little  and  dis- 
closed to  us  two  islands  within  a  stone's-throw. 

I  now  tried  to  think  where  we  were,  and  canio  to 
the  conclusion  that  w^e  were  off  the  southernmost  cape 
of  the  entrance  to  the  gulf. 

On  the  5th  the  wind  was  strong  from  the  north-east, 
witli  rain  and  a  heavy  sea.  We  siglited  land  and 
tacked  close  to  it.  The  fog  was  too  thick  to  permit 
me  to  make  out  the  locality.  Tov/ards  evening  the 
wind  backed  to  the  north  and  blew  strongly,  which 
broi  ght  us  down  under  close-reefed  sails. 

On  the  6th  the  wind  was  very  strong  from  the  north 
and  west.  We  could  see  the  land,  and  ascertained 
our  position.     We  were  in  the  mouth  of  the  gulf. 

T'he  north-west  wind  was  extremely  cold.  We  had 
warm  east  and  south-east  winds  up  to  this  date,  and 
therefore  felt  the  cold  severely. 

The  gale  lasted  until  the  8th,  when  it  moderated. 
Towards  evening  a  light  breeze  §prung  up  from  the 
south-east,  and  rain  conmienced  falling.  We  were 
now  off  Kuk-e-luver  Island,  about  twentv  miles  below 
Kiantilic  Harbor.  Towards  evening  the  rain  ceased 
and  the  wind  shifted  to  the  north-west,  and  soon  in- 


22 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


hi 


,  i 

i 

creased  to  a  heavy  gale.  The  schooner  was  put  under 
storm-sails,  and  began  drifting  out  into  the  gulf.  The 
gale  was  fearful  through  the  night  and  the  sea  ran 
very  high,  and,  to  add  terror  to  our  situation,  the 
night  was  most  intensely  dark.  At  3  o'clock  on  the 
morning  of  the  10th,  when  the  gale  was  at  its  height 
and  the  sea  running  heavily,  I  found  it  necessary  to 
wear  around  on  the  other  tack. 

There  was  danger  in  such  a  storm  and  in  such  a  sea, 
but  it  must  be  done.  All  the  sail  the  schooner  was 
able  to  carry  was  a  close-reefed  foresail,  to  keep  lier 
from  rolling  to  windward,  of  which  there  was  great 
danger. 

There  was  another  danger,  greater  than  all  the  rest, 
which  none  but  myself  knew.  This  was,  of  drifting 
upon  Wareman's  Island,  rising  some  two  thousand 
feet  above  the  sea,  and  close  under  our  lee.  All  hands 
were  called  and  everything  made  ready.  The  helm 
was  put  hard-up,  and  in  an  instant  her  head  payed  off. 
She  lay  deep  in  the  swell,  her  lee  rail  and  half  of  the 
deck  being  under  water;  in  fact,  for  an  instant  she 
appeared  to  be  on  her  beam  ends.  She  obeyed  her 
helm  admirably  at  this  critical  juncture,  and  as  her 
head  payed  off  a  little  more,  the  pressure  on  her  be- 
came less,  she  righted,  and,  shaking  herself  like  some 
huge  water-dog,  bounded  off  before  the  wind. 

AVatching  my  opportunity,  I  brought  her  safely  to 
on  the  other  tack,  and  she  rode  out  the  gale.     In  the 


i^ 


■Y 


\ 


NEW  LONDON  TO  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


23 


under 
The 
a  ran 
1,  the 
m  the 
iieiglit 
ary  to 

a  sea, 

3r  was 

3p  Tier 

great 

e  rest, 
rifting 
)u.sand 
hands 
)  hehii 
'ed  off. 
of  the 
nt  she 
ed  her 
as  her 
her  l)e- 
3  some 

ifely  to 
In  the 


morning  the  wind  moderated,  but  at  sunrise  it  was 
still  blowing  sti'onglj.  The  11th  brought  no  better 
weather,  until  along  towards  evening,  when  the  wind 
died  away,  with  occasional  snow-squalls,  and  we  passed 
a  comfortable  night. 

The  damages  by  the  gale  may  be  summed  up  as  fol- 
lows: One  boat  stove  in;  one  steerinsr  oar  and  one 
barrel  of  onions  swept  overboard;  and  a  good  scare 
for  all  hands. 

Shortly  after  sunrise,  on  the  12th,  the  wind  com- 
menced to  blow  from  the  south-east.  We  were  then 
about  thirty  miles  below  Kuk-e-luyer  Island,  having 
drifted  about  thirt\'  miles  in  the  i^ale.  Makinsj  all 
sail,  we  ran  off  before  the  wind,  and  at  8  o'clock  that 
afternoon  were  safely  anchoredv  in  Niantilic  Harbor. 

At  Niantilic  we  found  the  brig  Alert,  Captain  Wat- 
son, of  Peterhead,  Scotland,  and  the  bark  Polar  St((r,  of 
the  same  place.  Parties  from  these  vessels  soon  came 
on  board  and  gave  us  the  news.  The  steamer  Exan- 
the,  Captain  Simon,  and  the  steamer  Windward,  Cap- 
tain Murray,  b.ad  been  in  the  gulf;  but  as  soon  as  the 
whaling  was  over  had  sailed  for  New-gum-eute,  tak- 
ing with  them  most  of  the  Escpiimaux.  This  was  l)ad 
news  for  us,  as  most  of  the  skins  worth  purchasing 
must  certainly  have  been  taken  l)y  these  vessels.  They 
had  also  carried  away  the  natives  whom  we  had  hoped 
to  get.  The  Pcrscvera.nr.e,  Captain  J3rown,  was  at 
Kickerton  Island,  on  the  other  side  of  the  gulf.     They 


■■ii»mii^»ii  'Dn 


24 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


m 


il  I 


expected  him  over  in  a  few  days,  and  that  he  would 
winter  here. 

Murray,  with  his  steamer,  w\as  coming  back  in  the 
fall,  and  he,  too,  was  going  to  winter  here.  This  was 
a  damper  to  all  my  hopes.  What  with  four  vessels 
wintering  here,  all  with  large  crews,  and  two  steamers 
at  Kickerton  Island  with  more  men,  who  must  all  have 
skin-clothing,  and  with  plenty  of  truck  or  material  to 
trade  for  it,  my  chances  were  very  poor  of  getting 
skin-clothing  and  Esquimaux  sufficient  to  satisfy  those 
who  inti'usted  me  with  the  command  of  the  vessel  for 
tliat  very  purpose.  It  was  too  late  to  leave  the  gulf 
and  seek  a  more  favorable  place,  so  I  concluded  to 
stav  and  do  the  best  I  could.  The  natives  were  off 
deer-huntins;,  and  tbere  were  onlv  two  families  left  on 
shore,  those  of  old  Tes-e-wane  and  another,  both  crip- 
[)les.  Old  Tes-e-wane  has  been  a  very  useful  man  here- 
tofore, but  has  recently  been  disabled  by  the  premature 
discharge  of  his  gun. 

While  awaiting  the  return  of  the  Esquimaux  we  re- 
paired our  boat  and  the  foresail  which  liad  been  dam- 
aj^ed  in  the  late  o-alo.  The  w^eather  at  Niantilic  on 
tlie  nights  of  the  10th  and  11th  was  described  as  ter- 
rific. The  vessels  Alert  and  Polar  Stir  drasrcr^^d  their 
anchors,  althous^h  thev  held  them  down  with  a  bun- 
dred  fathoms  of  chain  out.  Old  Tes-e-wane  said  it 
was  the  strongest  wind  he  had  ever  seen  in  his  life. 

On  the  14th  the  Scotch  Itark  Vcrscvc.r((nce  arrived 


NEW  LONDON  TO  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


25 


Liglit  north  and  west  winds  and  snow-squalls  prevail. 
All  hands  were  activ^ely  employed  preparing  boats  for 
whaling.  At  the  earnest  solicitation  of  Mr.  Sherman, 
we  put  up  a  tent  on  what  we  call  "Arctic  Island,"  so 
that  he  would  be  able  to  take  scientific  observations, 
which  he  was  most  eager  to  do.  We  had  rain  and  we 
had  snow  ;  then  hail,  arid  occasionallv  sunshine.  Mr. 
Kumlein  employed  his  time  shooting  birds  and  col  lect- 
ins: other  matei'ial  on  the  sliores  and  alonsj  the  shore 
at  low  water.  September  was  drawing  to  a  close,  and 
no  natives  yet. 


September  27.  —  Some  of  the  Esquimaux  arrived 
yesterday  evening,  but  Avent  directly  to  the  Scotch 
ships,  the  master  having  engaged  them  previous  to 
their  starting  on  the  hunting  expedition.  This  morning, 
after  breakfast,  we  were  surprised  at  seeing  a  nund)er 
of  boats  tilled  with  Esquimaux,  men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren, with  a  scoodl  V  mixture  of  doj^s,  rotten  skins,  rotten 
fish,  &c.,  coming  toward  the  scliooner.  They  were  soon 
alouicside  and  over  the  rail  on  deck.  What  a  motley- 
looking  set!  Their  skins  were  strangely  spotted,  but 
with  what  it  was  difHcult  to  deteiMnine;  probably  grease 
and  dirt.  Here  and  there  we  could  see,  through  the 
dirt  and  grease,  or  between  the  spots,  their  dark-brown 
skins.  Manv  of  them  had  sore  eves,  and  all  were  very 
dirty.  They  had  been  ofl'  in  the  mountains  for  two 
months,  and  had  had  no  opportunity  to  wash.     Soap 


26 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


is  not  manufactured  among  the  Esquimaux,  so  that 
those  who  are  not  convenient  to  the  shipping  stations 
come  into  the  world  and  sjo  out  of  it  without  knowiiifi: 
the  luxury  of  a  wash  !    They  had  come  on  board  to  pay 
me  a  compUmentary  visit,  so  it  was  necessary  to  enter- 
tain them.    The  cabin  was  soon  crowded,  and  not  only 
the  cabin,  but  the  cabin  steps,  the  companion-way,  and 
the  after-part  of  the  deck, — all  apparently  eager  to  get 
one  word  or  look  from  an  old  acquaintance,  or  mayhap 
to  get  a  little  fire-water  or  a  piece  of  tobacco.     Some 
of  them  I  knew  years  ago,  in  1851  and  1852,  the  first 
time  white  men  ever  ventured  to  winter  in  Cumberland 
Gulf     They  were  old  men  and  old  women  now,  and 
there  are  onlv  a  i'ew  of  them  left.     Manv  of  my  old 
acquaintances  had  gone  to  the  happy  hunting-grounds, 
where  the  deer  and  seals  are  more  plentiful  and  the 
weather  not  so  cold.    They  all  appeared  happy  to  see  me 
once  more  among  them ;  but  it  soon  became  unpleas- 
ant, to  me,  at  least.  What  witb  the  sci-eechino:  of  vouns* 
ones  which  many  of  the  women  had  in  their  hoods  on 
their  backs,  the  barking  and  howling  of  their  dogs  in 
the  boats  alongside,  and  the  continued  clatter  of  the 
tongues  of  all, — men,  women,  and  half-grown   chil- 
dren,— I  concluded  to  get  rid  of  them  as  soon  as  possi- 
ble.    So,  hauling  out  the  bottle,  I  gave  each  a  dram, 
and  then  sent  him  or  her  on  deck  to  make  room  for 
the  others,  who  were  eager  to  get  below.    It  took  sev- 
eral hours  to  get  rid  of  them,  but  before  doing  so  I 


NEW  LONDON  TO  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


27 


purchased  some  skins  and  obtained  the  promise  of 
more;  but  it  was  very  evident  to  me  that  fhe  Scotch 
whaler  had  got  nearly  their  whole  stock. 

% 

* 

On  the  29th  two  more  boats  arrived.  One  went 
directly  to  the  Scotchmen ;  the  other  came  alongside 
the  schooner.  I  looked  over  the  side  to  see  if  it 
was  anybody  I  knr-y,  and  beheld  Tyson.  This  nuist 
not  startle  the  reader.  I  will  explain "  after  a  t\me. 
And  there  was  Mrs.  Tvson,  too,  as  beautiful  and  as 
dirty  as  ever.  And  there  were  also  two  little'Tysons, — 
not  genuine,  though,  but  adopted.  This  Tyson  is 
about  forty-live  or  forty-eight  years  of  age.  When 
the  ships  first  commenced  t  ^  winter  in  the  gulf,  some 
twenty-live  years  ago,  the  captains  who  hired  the  Es- 
quimaux—and they  all  did  so— finding  it  diihcult  to 
recollect  their  native  cognomens,  would  give  them 
English  nameg;  as,  Tom,  Charley,  Dick,  or  Harry, 
and  others,  again,  which  were  not  quite  so  eu[»honious 
to  the  ear.  This  youngster,  whose  real  name  was  Nep- 
e-ken,  was  baptized  Tyson;  I  know  not  for  what 
reason,  unless  it  was  because  he  was  so  handsome! 
He  is  a  great  hunter,— the  Nimrod  of  the  gulf;  and 
he  is  also  considered  a  good  whaleman,  and  American 
ships  coming  here  for  that  purpose  endeavor  to  secure 
his  services.  Ills  wife,  too,  is  good  with  the  rifle  and 
the  spear.  She  will  kill  her  deer,  catch  her  seal,  or 
face  the  polar  bear.     Nep-e-ken  came  on  board,  and 


28 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


(. 


I  soon  miide  arrangements  with  him  to  stop  with  me 
throngli  the  winter.  Of  course  his  boat's-crew  will  do 
as  he  tells  them.  From  these  natives  I  got  some  more 
skins  and  made  preparations  to  start  for  the  head  of 
the  gulf.  The  natives  are  to  go  with  me.  We  got 
under  way  on  the  mornino;  of  the  1st  of  October.  It 
was  calm  in  the  harbor,  but  I  expected  to  get  a  breeze 
outside,  ruttinsc  the  natives'  boat  ahead  to  tow  while 
we  were  securing  the  anchors,  we  were  soon  outside 
tlie  point  of  Niantihc  Island,  when  we  caught  a  nice 
breeze  from  the  south-east  which  carried  the  schooner 
along  six  or  seven  knots  an  hour.  It  was  my  inten- 
tion to  cross  the  gulf  to  the  Kickerton  Islands,  to 
deliver  three  boxes  sent  to  Captain  John  Roach,  of 
the  schooner  Helen  F.,  at  Kickerton  station,  but  the 
Helen  F.  was  gone.  The  fall  before,  after  getting 
snugly  stored  into  winter  quarters,  as  the  captain 
thought,  there  came  a  gale  of  wind  from  the  south- 
east, with  snow,  which  lasted  several  days,  and  before 
it  al)ated  it  carried  the  harbor  ice  T)ut,  and  with  it  the 
schooner,  but  not  the  anchors  or  the  chains,  which 
were  left  behind  on  the  bottom,  the  latter  having 
parted.  The  vessel  drifted  up  and  down  the  gulf  sev- 
eral days,  and  her  captain  was  finally  compelled  to 
run  her  on  the  rocks  to  save  life.  He  was  verv  ^lad 
to  have  an  opportunity  to  do  that,  as  it  was  in  Novem- 
ber, d  one  strong  northwester  would  have  decided 
his  fa      ind  that  of  all  hands. 


If»»*w^ 


(> 


NEW  LONDON  TO  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


29 


♦ 


., 


Our  lair  wind  from  the  south  did  not  last  long.  We 
soon  had  snow,  and  then  the  wind  hauled  to  the  north, 
right  ahead.  This  was  not  very  pleasant,  as  I  had 
hoped  to  reach  Kickerton  Islands  and  he  sheltered  hy 
their  friendly  harbor  by  night.  The  schooner  was 
very  deep,  her  decks  being  scarcely  above  the  water. 
We  had  an  extra  cargo  on  board,  consisting  of  Esqui- 
maux, men,  women,  and  children,  and  all  their  house- 
hold goods,  including  sleighs,  dogs,  and  a  whale-boat 
which  had  been  given  to  Nep-e-ken  for  his  services 
on  board  the  American  brig  IsahcUa,  Captain  Keeny, 
the  previous  year. 

As  the  wind  increased  the  sea  rose  slightly,  but  it 
was  not  heavy.  The  schooner  sat  so  deep,  however, 
that  considerable  water  washed  across  her  decks.  An 
Esquimaux  has  a  horror  of  water.  He  thinks  it  should 
only  be  used  for  drinking  purposes.  So  to  escape  from 
the  water,  which  was  by  no  means  pleasant  to  feel  on 
the  legs  or  running  down  the  back,  as  it  was  nearly  as 
cold  as  ice,  some  w6nt  to  the  forecastle  among  the  men, 
and  others  took  possession  of  the  cabin.  In  fact,  upon 
o-oins"  below  I  found  one  old  woman — at  least  sixty, 
and  cross-eyed— in  my  berth.  I  let  her  remain  there 
and  sought  quarters  elsewhere. 

We  did  not  get  to  the  promised  harbor  that  night, 
as  I  have  before  intimated,  but  kept  beating  to  wind- 
ward, in  the  hope  of  getting  in  the  next  morning.  It 
was  very  dark,  and  we  had  a  good  strong  breeze,  which 


30 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


brought  US  down  to  reefed  sails.  In  the  morning  we 
were  to  windward  of  and  close  to  the  harbor,  and 
shortly  after  came  to  an  anchorao;e  abreast  of  the 
houses  that  comprise  the  station  —  one  Scotch  and 
the  otlier  American,  the  latter  belonging  to  Messrs. 
Williams  k  Haven,  of  Xew  London,  Conn.  We  had 
scarcely  let  go  the  anchor  when  Captain  Roach  and 
Captain  Hall  were  on  board,  I  delivered  the  three 
boxes  to  Captain  Roach.  They  were  sent  out  by  Mr. 
Williams,  and  their  contents  proved  to  be  ammuni- 
tion, which  was  very  much  needed.  I  was  now  free  to 
go  north  to  the  head  of  the  gulf,  which  was  my  inten- 
tion when  leaving  Niantilic  Harbor.  It  would  not  do 
for  me  to  winter  among  so  many  ships  the  masters  of 
which  knew  the  object  I  had  in  view,  and  as  they  wish- 
ed to  retain  the  Esquimaux  in  the  gulf  to  assist  them 
in  their  whaling  expeditions,  they  would  use  all  their 
influence  to  prevent  them  from  joining  me  in  the  pro- 
posed migration  to  the  East  Land. 

There  was  another  reason  for  my  proceeding  north: 
I  hoped  to  get  more  skins  at  the  head  of  the  gulf  than 
could  be  obtained  below. 

It  would  debar  me  from  spring  whaling,  but  I  was 
after  something  besides  whales.  I  took  the  precau- 
tion to  leave  a  large  quantity  of  "trade"  with  Tes-e- 
wane  at  Xiantihc,  he  promising  to  purchase  all  the 
skins  he  could.  We  remained  at  the  Kickerton  Isl- 
ands awaiting  an  opportunity  to  run  up  to  the  head 


" 


NEW  LONDON  TO  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


81 


of  the  gulf — 01*  the  "Annanatook  Harbor,"  iis  the 
Esqaimaiix  call  it — until  the  7th  of  October. 

Previous  to  this  we  had  chieliy  north  and  north-west 
winds,  with  snow.  On  the  morning  of  the  7th  the  wind 
was  south-east,  and  it  was  quite  clear. 

The  south-east  wind  is  almost  sure  to  brini^  snow 
with  it;  but  it  is  only  sixty  miles  to  Annanatook,  and 
I  hoped  to  get  there  before  the  storm.  Therefore,  as 
soon  as  breakfast  was  over  we  get  under  way,  leaving 
Kickerton  at  nine  o'clock.  On  getting  clear  of  the 
harbor,  the  breeze  was  found  quite  strong.  We  were 
makinor  s-ood  headwav,  runninij;  otf  before  the  wind 
with  all  sails  set.  As  we  got  further  along  the  wind 
increased.  There  was  a  harbor  under  mv  lee,  and  at 
the  rate  we  were  sroincr — ten  or  eleven  knots  —  we 
must  soon  be  there. 

We  had  the  same  cargo  on  board,  and  had  we  been 
compelled  to  luff  to  I  fear  the  Esquimaux  would  have 
lost  most  of  their  household  goods;  but  fortunately 
this  was  not  necessary.  The  little  schooner  bounded 
over  the  water  with  great  rapidity,  and  soon  the  har- 
bor was  in  sight.  The  shores  at  the  head  of  the  gulf 
are  quite  low,  with  many  outlying  reefs  and  islands, 
and  over  these  the  sea  was  breaking  with  fearful  force, 
sending  spray  high  into  the  air. 

Such  was  the  motion  of  the  waters,  that  it  was  some 
time  before  I  could  make  out  the  entrance  to  the  har- 
bor. 


/ 


•32 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


We  took  in  all  of  our  light  wails  as  we  drew  close  to 
the  entrance,  and,  keeping  the  schooner  oft'  a  little  to 
clear  a  point  of  rocks  which  projected  from  the  island 
under  which  I  intended  to  anclior,  Intied  close  around 
under  the  land,  and  was  in  smooth  water.  We  let 
go  the  anchor  in  twelve  fathoms,  and  were  as  coni- 
fortahle  as  we  could  be.  We  made  the  distance  from 
the  Kickerton  Islands  to  Annanatook  in  six  hours. 


^INTER  IN  pUMBERLAND  pULF. 

October  8. — We  are  now  jincliored  in  Aniuinjitook 
Harbor,  where  I  intend  to  winter  if  (rod  spares  my  lite. 
There  we  ibnnd  three  families  of  Esquimaux :  0-ea- 
ter  and  wife;  Kuck-oo-jug  and  wife,  and  two  children  ; 
Eg-e-low,  single,  (wife  dead,)  and  one  son ;  Inue-mar- 
ket,  married  to  Xep-e-ken's  sister,  and  the  venerable 
Metek,  whom  I  had  nearly  forgotten.  Metek  is  Esqui- 
maux for  "esTir."  The  old  man  must  be  well  along 
in  years.  Twenty-six  years  ago  he  was  an  old  man, 
and  vet  I  can  see  but  little  chanii:e  in  him. 

We  soon  cleared  the  decks  of  all  tlie  rubbisli,  Esqui- 
maux and  all.  This  place  has  been,  and  is  yet  suppos- 
ed to  be,  an  excellent  one  for  whaling  in  the  fall  season  ; 
but  few  sliips  stay  here  late  in  the  year  for  fear  of  be- 
ing frozen  in  and  thus  losing  their  spring  whaling,  as 
the  water  would  then  probably  be  sixty  or  eighty  miles 
below  them. 

A  lookout  has  been  placed  on  the  island.  The  men 
performing  this  service  are  furnished  a  spy-glass,  and 
are  relieved  every  two  hours.  We  have  also  located 
Mr.  Sherman  on  shore  again,  and  now  I  hope  he  will 
be  able  to  continue  his  meteorological  observations 
without  further  interruption. 
8 


84 


THE  CRUrSK  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


On  Fridiiv,  October  12,  tlie  Scotch  bark  Pcrserenmee 
came  in  anVl  anchored,  having  seen  no  whaU^s  at  Ni- 
antilic.  The  other  two  vessels  are  still  at  Niantilic. 
The  Persc.rmmcc  re[)orts  that  a  large  steamer,  that  liad 
been  north  whaling  in  Pavis's  Straits,  came  into  the 
harbor  a  few  days  aijo,  l)ut  did  not  intend  to  stav  lonj;, 
and  was  bound  home  to  Scotland.  Captain  Birnie,  of 
the  Poldr  Star,  will  send  mv  letters  bv  her. 

AVe  have  had  some  snow,  but  none  of  any  conse- 
quence; some  good  strong  wind,  but  no  heavy  gales. 
They  are  ha\'ing  different  w^eather  below — more  gales 
and  more  snoAV. 

On  the  15th  of  October  Captain  Koach  arrived  witli 
two  boats'-crews,  looking  for  whale.  His  other  crews 
were  left  encamped  near  American  lTarl)or,  about 
thirty  miles  from  here  in  an  easterly  direction.  Tie 
staid  with  me  two  days  and  then  left  to  join  his  other 
boats. 

On  the  18th,  Captain  Brown,  of  the  Perseverance,  got 
his  vessel  under  way  and  left  us  for  NianiUlc,  so  we  are 
now  alone  in  our  winter  quarters.  The  Esquimaux 
report  having  seen  smoke  in  the  direction  of  American 
IIarl)or.  I  suppose  it  to  be  Murray,  with  the  Wind- 
ward. 

On  the  22d  wt  were  visited  by  three  of  Murray's 
boats  from  American  Harbor.    They  were  all  looking 


at  Ni- 
luitilic. 
lilt  luul 
ito  tho 
IV  long, 
Irnle,  of 


%_ 


y  conse 

-y  gales. 

)re  gales 


ved  with 
ler  crews 
or,  about 
tion.  He 
his  other 

erancc,  got 

,  so  we  are 

j^squimaux 

American 

the  Wind' 

f  Murray's 
all  looking 


WINTLK  IN  CUMIiKRLAND  (JULF. 


:],"i 


I 


eagerly  for  whale,  hut  liad  seon  none.  They  reported 
that  Captain  Roach's  boats,  in  his  absence,  got  a  huge 
whale;  also  that  Captain  AVat:^on,  of  the  brig  yl/^'^^ 
lying  at  Niantilic,  had  captured  one.  Captain  Hall, 
from  the  Kickerton  Islands,  has  also  been  here  with 
three  boats. 

The  lookout  on  the  island  signalled  a  whale  on  the 
24th.  The  boats  were  instantly  out,  l)ut  it  was  not 
seen  accain.  Every  day  when  the  weatlier  would 
permit  the  natives  were  otf  sealing,  and  at  the  same 
time  looking  for  whale,  but  up  to  this  date  in  vain. 
I  should  noL  care  so  much  about  not  seeing  or  not 
srettinoc  wbales,— -althouorh  I  should  like  to  ncet  enouii'h 
to  pay  expenses, — if  we  could  do  anything  else  at  this 
season  of  the  year.  This  is  the  dry  season.  The  na- 
tives  have  given  up  hunting  deer  and  are  returning  to 
the  sea-side  preparatory  to  entering  upon  their  winter 
campaign  against  the  seals.  The  women  are  idle. 
They  will  not  work  on  deer-skins  until  the  ice  makes; 
but  thev  will  work  on  seal-skins.  Like  all  uncivil- 
ized  people,  they  are  very  superstitious,  and  they  fear 
if  they  work  on  deer-skins  (took-too)  out  of  the  proper 
season  they  or  their  friends  will  be  unfortunate,  per- 
haps die;  so  one  must  wait  until  the  ice  makes  solid 
before  they  will  consent  to  make  a  suit  of  clothes, 
thouofh  one  be  sufieriui?  for  them. 

Nep-e-ken  ttnd  Kuck-oo-jug  are  off  every  day  with 


30 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLOREXCE, 


the  boats.  Xep-e-kcn's  boat  is  prepared  for  whaling. 
Kuck-oo-jiig,  wlioMi  I  have  not  employed,  goes  in  his 
own  boat.  It  is  rather  an  old  one,  to  be  sure,  but 
it  will  do  for  sealing.  They  generally  keep  within 
sij^dit  of  one  another,  so  that  if  Nep-e-ken  should  see 
whales  and  strike  them  Kuck-oo-jug  could  render  him 
assistance.  They  carrv  their  rifles  with  them,  so  that 
if  thev  see  no  whales  thev  can  auuise  themselves  shoot- 
ing  seals,  and  they  generally  bring  in  two  or  three  of 
the  latter  to  the  schooner  in  the  evening.  My  own 
men  I  seldom  send  off.  Indeed,  I  will  not  unless  thev 
signal  from  the  shore  that  a  whale  is  in  sight.  My 
men  are  as  yet  too  poorly  clad  to  remain  a  long  time 
in  the  boats  in  such  cold  weather  as  now  prevails. 
The  Esquiiuaux  tell  me  that  last  fall  there  were  plenty 
of  whales  within  ritie-shot  of  where  the  schooner  now 
lies.  In  fact,  I  know  that  nearly  every  fall  the  whales 
have  been  here  in  abundance. 

It  may  be  that  they  have  met  feed  lower  down  the 
gulf  and  have  stopped  there. 


On  the  29th  of  October  j'Tep-e-ken  came  to  me  and 
requested  me  to  get  the  Esquimaux  to  "  ankoot "  for 
whale,  saying  if  I  would  do  so,  and  pay  the  ankoot, 
tli<^v  would  ascertain  whether  we  were  to  ijet  a  whale 
or  not.  Of  course  I  knew  that  the  Esquinumx  believ- 
ed in  their  ankoot  as  implicitly  as  we  believe  in  our 
doctors,  or  those  who  expound  the  Bible  to  us;  and 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


37 


I  humored  theh.  accordingly.  Xep-e-ken  delicately 
hinted  to  me  that  as  a  preliminary  to  this  grand  calling 
up  of  spirits  from  the  vasty  deep  it  would  he  necessary 
for  me  to  furnish  them  with  some  spirits  to  pour  down 
their  own  capacious  and  well-lined  throats.  At  this  I 
did  not  demur,  but  gave  them  the  "  needful,"  and  all 
was  made  ready  to  summon  the  supernatural  that 
evening.  I  did  not  go  on  shore  to  witness  the  sum- 
moning, as  the  spirits  become  otfended  if  an  unbe- 
liever he  present,  but  of  course  was  anxious  as  to  the 
results.  Ivuck-oo-jug  was  to  l)e  the  ankoot.  They 
kept  it  up  till  early  morning,  and  at  breakfast  I  learn- 
ed the  result.  We  were  to  get  a  whale,  but  the  spirits 
would  not  inform  Ivuck-oo-jug  whether  it  would  be 
this  fall  or  next  spring.  I  made  him  a  present  of  a 
larire  kn're.  He  smiled,  and,  examining  the  knife, 
turned  to  Nep-e-ken  and  said  to  him,  in  Esquimaux : 
*<  Now  we  will  have  a  whale." 


On  the  last  day  of  October,  although  it  was  late  in 
the  season  and  dnngerous  to  he  out  at  tliat  time  in  the 
year,  we  weighed  anchor  early  in  the  morning,  with 
the  native  boats' -crews  aboard,  some  of  them  with 
ankoot  charnip  hanging  al-out  their  persons,  and  stood 
out  in  the  gulf  looking  for  whale ;  hut  we  looked  in 
vain.  In  the  afternoon,  the  wind  blowing  strong  in 
the  north-east,  we  reached  the  harbor  just  at  dark.  The 
days  are  very  short  now. 


a§ 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCT^. 


The  natives  still  prosecute  sealing  every  favorable 
day.     They  shot  one  oog-jook,  good  for  boots. 

On  the  7th  of  Xo venil )er  ^ ei  )-e-ken  an d  Kiick-oo-i u^'- 
were  ofi;  as  usual.  Kuck-oo-jug  soon  returned  and 
informed  me  that  he  had  seen  a  whale;  that  it  was 
close  to  his  boat,  but  he  had  no  line,  nor  was  he  pi'e- 
pared  in  any  ^^'ay  ibr  whaling.  I  had  not  hired  him, 
as  I  was  afraid  the  stores  would  not  permit  me  to  feed 
so  many  Esquimaux  through  the  winter.  I  asked 
^^here  Xep-e-ken  was,  and  learned  that  he  could  «oe 
his  boat  when  he  started  for  the  schooner,  but  did 
not  know  wliether  he  saw  the  whale  or  not.  The 
lookout  had  seen  nothing  from  the  hill. 

The  wliales  are  here,  but  it  is  very  late.     The  ice 
wdl  soon  form,  as  it  seldom  remains  open  as  late  as 
the  7th  of  November.     It  is  now  forming  near  the 
sliores,  and  it  will  take  but  one  night  of  caim  weather 
to  cover  the  whole  gulf  with  it.     The  lookout  signal- 
led that  a  boat  was  coming.     It  proved  to  be  Nep-e- 
ken,  and  he  was  soon  alongside.     The  first  words  he 
'itteredwere,  "Ogbig!  ogbig!     Assejiwouk!  asseawo- 
uk!"     Which  means, '' W^hale  !  whale!    Lost!  lost!" 
He  had  seen  a  whale  and  struck  it.     It  was  a  laro:e 
nne.     The  whale  took  some  twenty-five  fathoms  of 
Hue,  and  then  tlie  line  parted.     TlVis  was  bad  news,' 
yet  it  niiglit  have  l)een  worse. 

It  was  a  daring  act  to  strike  a  whale  all  alone  and 


1 


rorable 


-00-1 11  (j: 
3(1  and 

it  was 
be  prc- 
1  biDi, 
to  feed 

asked 

Id  «ee 

ut  did 

The 

he  ice 
ate  as 
dv  the 
Gather 
iigiial- 
S^ep-e- 
ds  lie 
eawo- 
[ost  I " 
hn'ofe 
ins  of 
news, 

)  and 


WINTER  I>:  CUMBERLAND  (UILF. 

at  this  time  of  the  year.  The  days  are  short,  and  it 
was  then  growing  dark,  so  I  made  preparations  to  send 
two  boats  off  in  the  morning.  For  this  purpose  all  the 
skin-clothing  was  collected  and  given  to  three  men  of 
the  forecastle,  who  were  to  make  up  the  complement 
of  two  boats'-crews  with  the  Esquimaux,  who  were  not 
numerous  enough  to  man  two  boats.  They  were  pro- 
visioned for  two  or  three  days,  although  I  scarcely 
thought  they  would  be  gone  over  night.  Kuck-oo-jug 
was  to  take  the  natives'  boat,  while  Nep-e-ken  was  to 
use  his  own. 

They  were  off  at  daybreak.  The  weather  was  fine, 
but  cold,  with  a  good  breeze  from  the  north.  When 
some  six  miles  off"  they  were  seen  to  take  in  their  sails. 
They  had  either  seen  or  struck  a  whale.  Shortly  after- 
wards they  disappeared  from  sight. 

The  day  passed  awav  and  niu'ht  came  on.  It  was 
cold,  and  the  wind  blew  from  tlie  north.     They  did 

not  come. 

On  the  morning  of  the  9th  the  horizon  was  eagerly 
FC'umed  for  the  boats.  "No  boats  in  sight!"  All 
tl)  ii  day  a  sharp  lookout  was  kept,  but  no  boats  ap- 
pcHicd.'  Niglit  came.  The  thermometer  registered 
minus  1G°.  Tlie  wind  blew  heavily  from  the  north- 
west, 

The  morning  of  the  10th  was  very  cold,  but  there 
was  not  so  mucli  wind.     11ie  harbor  was  frozen  over 


40 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


and  some  of  the  Esquimaux  children  came  to  the 
schooner  upon  the  ice. 

The  squaws  and  children  were  very  anxious  ahout 
their  husbands  and  relatives.  We  could  see  but  little 
to-dav.  Althoudi  the  water  is  frozen  in  the  harbor, 
it  is  open  outside.  As  fast  as  the  ice  forms  it  is  car- 
ried away  by  the  w^ind  and  currents.  The  steam  or 
frost  arising  from  the  water  forms  a  dense  fog.  No 
boats.  Nisrht  came,  cold  and  cheerless 'for  those  adrift 
in  the  boats,  who  must,  by  thi  ''^^-e,  be  out  of  provis- 
ions. It  seems  certain  that  thcA  ;ve  struck  a  whale, 
and  the  wind  being  strong  from  the  nortli-w^est,  they 
have  had  to  go  before  it,  and  will  bring  up  some  thirty 
or  forty  miles  down  the  gulf, — probably  at  American 
Harbor. 


November  11.  —  No  boats.  It  is  verv  cold.  The 
wind  is  from  the  north.  The  gulf  is  still  open  outside 
of  the  harbor,  but  that  frost-smoke  which  shuts  out 
all  view  beyond  a  few  yards  prevails.  The  schooner 
is  in  some  danger,  the  wind  being  strong.  '  I  fear  the 
ice  in  the  harbor  will  move  and  carry  her  outside 
with  it. 


% 


November  12. — ^No  boats.  The  weather  continues 
about  the  same,  —  cold,  and  a  breeze  not  very  stro  ig, 
and  plenty  of  frost-smoke.  The  women  and  children 
are  crettms:  almost  inconsolable  over  the  loss  of  their 


I 


WINTER  IN  CUMBEULAND  GUTt'. 


41 


t 


« 


husbands,  Mbers,  and  relatives.     God  grant  them  a 
sate  return,  is  my  earnest  prayer.     About  3.30  p.  m., 
as  I  was  sitting  in  the  cabin,  smoking  a  pipe  and  wish- 
ing the  lost  or  absent  ones  back  safe  and  sound,  we 
were  all  startled  by  a  hail  alongside.     Springing  on 
deck,  I  discovered  the  boats.     They  were  some  dis- 
tance astern,  to  be  sure,  but  they  were  safe.     They 
could  not  get  nearer  on  account  of  the  ice.     A  Ihie 
was  soon  conveyed  to  them,  and  by  hauling  on  it  from 
the  schooner,  the  natives  lifting  the  heads  of  the  boats 
at  times  when  they  broke  through  the  young  ice,  we 
soon  had  them  alongside  and  hoisted  them  aboard. 
They  were  sorry-looking  boats,  almost  entirely  covered 
with  ice,  and  considerably  battered;  and  the  same  can 
be  said  of  their  crews.     The  oars  were  three  times 
their  ordinary  thickness,  though  the  ice  was  frequently 
beaten  from  them.     It  was  no  time  to  ask  questions. 
I  wanted  to  see  how  my  three  men  were.     They  could 
scarcely  stand,  and  all  staggered  as  they  gained  the 
deck,  on  being  helped  out  of  the  boat.     Several  of  the 
Esquimaux  were  but  little  better  oiF,  and  reeled  like 
drunken  men  around  the  deck. 

William  Albion  and  Richard  York  had  but  little 
feeling  in  their  fingers.  A  hole  was  soon  cut  through 
the  ice,  and  some  cold  sea-water  drawn  in  a  deck 
bucket.  In  this  their  hands  were  immersed,  and  there 
kept  till  feeling  was  restored. 

But  not  so  with  Lee.     He  had  unfortunately  got 


42 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


i 


one  of  his  legs,  and  coiiseqiieiitly  his  foot,  wet,  even 
through  his.  skin  nioecasin.  This  had  occurred  three 
davs  hefore.  He  could  not  sjet  his  foot  warm  after- 
wards,  he  said,  and  finally  ceased  to  have  feeling  in  it. 
I  concluded  that  his  case  was  a  serious  one,  and  would 
not  let  him  cro  near  tlie  tire.  Drawinoj  a  bucket  of 
cold  water,  his  foot  was  plunged  in  it,  after  cutting  off 
his  moccasin,  which  could  not  be  pulled  off.  Leg, 
stocking,  and  moccasin  were  apparently  frozen  to- 
gether. On  immersing  his  foot  in  the  w^ater  it  became 
incrusted  with  ice,  which  was  the  result  of  the  frost 
coming  out  of  the  flesh.  After  awhile  the  ice  was 
gently  removed  from  the  foot,  but  the  frozen  member 
was  still  kept  in  tlie  water  and  rubbed  until  circulation 
was  restored.  It  took  all  of  an  hour  to  soften  the 
flesh".  This  being  accomplished,  the  foot  was  wrapped 
up  to  protect  it  from  the  cold.  The  man  was  then 
given  a  glass  of  spirits  and  sent  Lelow. 

Tt  was  now  the  turn  of  the  Esquimaux  to  be  looked 
'after.  Thev  needed  little  care,  however.  Thev  were 
very  tired,  very  hungry,  and  very  thirsty.  They  drank 
water  l)y  the  quart,  and  then  they  wanted  something 
stronger,  which  was  given  them.  Then  they  had  some- 
thing to  eat,  and  while  they  were  eating  I  gathered 
from  thorn  information  concerning  their  cruise.  On 
leaving  the  schooner  they  steered  in  the  direction  of 
American  Harbor.  When  about  six  miles  from  the 
vessel  they  saw  several  whales.     Thev  then  took  in 


I 


.  WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


43 


.1 


tlicir  sails,  as  it  was  l)lovving  a  strong  breeze,  so  that 
tliev  could  manoeuvre  for  the  whale  with  a  better 
chance  of  success.  The  whales  had  two  risings,  but 
were  struck  neilher  time.  On  tlie  tliird  rising  Kuck- 
ooins:  "rot  fast.  The  whale  sounded,  and  on  coming 
to  the  surface,  it  being  very  rough,  Xep-e-keii  ftxded 
to  kill  him.  The  whale  now  started  to  I'un  south  and 
carried  them  a  long  distance  before  Nep-e-ken  was 
enabled  to  kill  him.  It  was  then  almost  dark,  and 
some  of  the  Esquimaux  were  desirous  of  letting  the 
whale  go  and  of  returning  to  the  schooner;  but  Nep-e- 
ken  would  not  consent  to  this.  lie  said,  "The  whale 
must  and  shall  be  saved,  if  we  have  to  tow  him  to 
Kickerton  Island,"  a  distance  of  some  sixt}'  miles  from 
the  schooner  and  about  forty  from  wliere  they  then 

were. 

By  the  time  it  was  dark  tliey  had  the  wliale's  thdces 
cut  off  and  were  ready  to  tow.  The  whale  died  on  its 
side,  which  made  it  very  hard  towing.  It  would  have 
been  much  better  to  have  towed  him  by  the  head,  ' 
could  thevhave  o'ot  hold  of  it;  but  the  head  was  deep 
in  the  water,  and  the  sea  was  very  rough  and  the  wind 
blowing  strong.  They  towed  all  night.  Once  they 
parted  from  the  whale.  It  was  very  dark,  and  tliey 
had  considerable  difficulty  in  finding  him  again. 

The  morninir  of  the  9th  of  November  found  them 
about  ten  miles  below  American  IIarl)or  and  about 


44 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


forty  from  the  schooner.  They  were  not  far  from  the 
land,  and  the  wind  and  the  sea  were  driving  them  di- 
rectly towards  it. 

They  soon  reached  land,  and  were  fortunate  in 
finding  a  little  Ijay,  sheltered  from  the  sea,  into  which 
they  towed  the  whale.  Nep-e-ken  was  determined 
to  secure  the  whale;  so,  instead  of  starting  for  the 
schooner,  he  waited  until  the  tide  rose  so  that  he  could 
haul  the  prize  high  upon  the  heach.  The  tides  on  the 
full  and  change  of  the  moon  were  ahout  t^venty-two 
feet  at  this  time,  and  about  eighteen  feot  at  high  water. 
They  hauled  the  whale  as  far  upon  the  beach  as  they 
could,  and  in  assisting  at  this  young  Lee  slipped  over- 
board fi'om  a  rock,  fortunately,  however,  getting  only 
one  leg  wet. 

It  was  now  quite  dark,  and,  as  there  was  consider- 
able young  ice  drifting  in  the  gulf,  they  dared  not  start 
for  the  3chooner  until  daylight.  Thev  had  no  water. 
Their  proyisions  were  consumed,  and  their  condition 
•  was  anything  but  enviable.  They  appeased  their  hun- 
ger by  eating  black-skin  cut  from  the  whale,  but  it  was 
some  time  before  the  white  men  could  be  prevailed 
upon  to  submit  to  this  diet.  Some  blubber  was  also 
cut  from  the  whale  and  beaten  into  a  jelly-like  mass, 
and,  having  a  small  piece  of  cotton  canvas,  they 
picked  it  to  pieces  for  wicking  and  then  saturated  it 
with  oil  from  the  blubljer.  Setting  fire  to  this  mass 
on  the  snow,  they  soon  had  the  water  runnins^.     Each 


n 


WINTEll  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


45 


4 


man  in  turn  "knelt  down  on  the  snow  and  drank  the 
ffreasv  liuid;  and  thus  was  the  thirst  of  the  party, 
which  had  hegun  to  he  ahnost  intolerahle,  quenched 
for  a  time.  The  natives  hiid  down  for  a  sleep,  hut  the 
white  men  coukl  not  sleep  on  the  snow^  at  first.  When 
they  did  get  drowsy  Nep-e-ken  permitted  them'to  rest 
only  a  short  time,  and  then  started  them  up;  nor 
would  he  allow  them  to  lie  down  again,  during  the 
niffht,  more  than  ten  minutes  at  a  time. 

On  the  morning  of  the  10th  of  Novemher  the  wind 
was  hlowing  heavily  from  the  north-west.  The  hoats 
would,  therefore,  have  head -winds  to  contend  with 
had  they  started.  They  did  not  make  the  attempt. 
More  black-skin  was  cut  and  eaten,  and  water  was 
prepared  for  drinking  purposes  as  on  the  night  pre- 
vious. 

The  weather  was  more  favorable  on  the  11th,  and 
the  party  started  for  the  scliooner,  but  experienced 
great  difiiculty  in  keeping  clear  of  the  young  and  drift- 
ino-  ice.  Night  overtook  th.em  before  they  reached 
their  destination,  and  they  landed  on  a  small  island, 
where  they  suffered  much  from  hunger,  thirst,  and 
cold.  At  daybreak  they  started  again.  They  could 
not  see  for  the  frost  fog,  but  managed  to  reach  tlie 
schooner  just  before  dark.  • 

Through  the  month  of  November,  or  what  remained 


46 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


of  the  month,  there  was  hut  little  change  in  the  wea- 
ther. The  ice  made  slowly  and  we  had  considerable 
snow,  which  covered  and  protected  the  ice  in  the  har- 
l)or.     The  sea  was  still  oi)en  ontside. 

The  Esqnhnaiix,  having  recruited  strength  and  over- 
come the  fatigues  of  their  expedition,  went  out  seal- 
ing among  the  islands,  where  the  ice  had  formed,  but 
with  inditferent  success.  Mr.  Ivumlein  ventured  out 
on  the  ice  once  with  a  boat-hook,  and  fell  or  broke 
throngli,  but  he  escaped  with  a  good  Wj3tting. 

Some  few  ducks  lingered  still,  loath  to  leave.  Some 
of  them  were  sliot,  and  a  few  gulls  were  also  captured. 
Mr.  Sherman  was  zealously  employed  in  his  scientitic 
ol)servations  on  shore. 

He  has  a  irood-sized  canvas  tent,  with  a  stove  in  it. 
As  soon  as  the  snow  is  in  a  condition  to  cut  into  ])l()cks 
the  tent  will  be  covered  with  a  snow  iglau,  which  will 
make  it  quite  comfortable. 

December  1. — Ice  formed  out  in  the  gulf,  as  far 
as  the  eve  can  reach,  in  a  sino'le  niii:ht!  Some  of  the 
natives  ventured  out  on  the  newly-formed  ice  look- 
m^j:  for  seal. 

Upon  exair.ining  Xep-e-ken's  boat  I  found  that  it 
was  almost  ruined.  The  cop[>er  sheatlnng  was  entirel}' 
torn  off,  her  planking  nearly  cut  through,  and  her  two 
after-th^varts  s[)lit  and  s[)lintered  badly. 


WINTER  IN  rUMr.EHLAND  GULF. 


47 


On  the  6th  of  Deccmher,  the  ice.bjin<2:  in  a  ijood 
coiiditioii,  I  was  deteniiined  to  sjet  the  l)one  troni  the 
head  of  the  whale  captured  hy  tlie  natives,  and  con- 
sulted Nep-e-ken.  Ife  was  ready  in  a  moment.  The 
natives  were  called  and  the  dogs  harnessed ;  tackle, 
provisions,  spades  and  axes  to  cut  with,  and  finally 
rum,  were  made  ready  for  the  expedition, — and  tliey 
were  oii'  with  a  liurrah !  It  will  be  no  easv  task,  I 
know.  Ice  has  covered  the  whale  bv  this  time,  and, 
as  it  lies  in  the  shore  ice,  they  will  have  to  expend 
much  labor  in  getting  to  it.  The  up[ter  surface  of  the 
whale  will  be  frozen  verv  hard.  But  it  is  vvorth  the 
trial.  It  is  a  large  cow-whale,  and  there  are,  [)robably, 
two  thousand  pounds  of  l)one  in  its  head.  If  it  could 
have  been  l)rought  alongside  of  the  schooner,  about 
one  hundred  and  fortv  barrels  of  oil  could  have  been 
extracted  from  the  blubber. 

Evervthiniz:  went  aloiiij;  as  usual  until  the  9th,  when 
a  sleigh  was  reported  coming  from  the  south.  I  con- 
cluded it  was  some  of  our  natives  returnino;  fi'om 
the  expedition  to  the  whale.  Mr.  Burrows,  the  second 
olficer,  who  is  of  a  very  inquisitive  turn  of  mind, 
started  oft'  to  meet  the  sled,  which  was  not  verv  far 
away.  He  had  gone  about  two  hundred  yards  when 
he  came  to  a  crack  runninii^  from  the  sir.:.!'  island 
astern  of  the  schooner  to  an  island  Ivins;  some  six 
hundred  yards  to  the  north.  Not  being  troubled  with 
an  overplus  of  caution,  he  did  not  notice  that  the  tides 


mmmm 


48 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


hud  opeiiec!  tiic  crack  and  that  yonng  ice  had  formed 
in  it.  Jle  stepped  upon  it,  and  down  he  went  up  to 
his  anni)its.  His  situation  v/as  both  dangerous  and 
comical.  IJis  kigubrious  looks,  as  thougli  lie  was 
desirous  of  assistance,  yet  ashamed  to  ask  for  it,  I 
never  sliali  forget.  He  finally  got  out  without  help. 
He  came  on  board  all  in  a  lump,  with  his  arms 
akind)o,  changed  his  clothes,  and  concluded  he  was 
the  hero  of  the  season. 

The  sleigh  contained  Inue-mar-ket  and  Shu-mar- 
ker. The  latter  had  cut  his  head  very  badly  witli  a 
spade — a  blubber  spade.  These  spades  are  as  sharp  as 
a  razor.  Mr.  Sisson  washed  and  dressed  the  wound 
and  put  a  few  stitches  in  it. 

The  Esquimaux  report  Xep-e-ken  and  his  men  at 
work  on  the  whale.  They  have  one  side  of  the  head 
out,  and  will  get  the  other  out  to-day.  They  want  a 
little  more  bread  and  considerabl}'  more  rum,  as  their 
supplies  are  running  short.  Those  articles  were  got 
ready,  and  Inue-mar-ket  (whom  we  called  Jonah) 
will  start  earlv  in  the  mornins;  for  the  whale,  leavinsr 
Shu-mar-ker  behind.  I  should  not  be  surprised  to 
hear  that  the  latter  had  been  playing  loose  with  Nep- 
e-ken's  rum.     He  is  excessively  fond  of  spirits. 


" 


On  the  lltli  the  Esquimaux  all  returned,  bringing 
with  them  a  considerable  quantity  of  the  bone.  They 
had  got  it  all  out  of  the  whale's  head  and  stored  it  on 


WINTER  IN  CUMIJEIILAND  GULF. 


49 


the  rocks.  I  want  to  secure  the  rest  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible. I  Imve  arranged  with  Nep-e-ken  al)ont  going  to 
Molly  Kater-nnna  to  trade  for  skins,  and  also  to  l)ring 
two  teams  of  dogs  to  assist  in  getting  the  ])one  to  the 
schooner.  We  have  but  few  dogs.  Many  have  died 
this  fall  from  a  disease  resend)ling  hydrophobia.  He 
will  start  in  the  morninu;.  Just  before  dark  two  sleighs 
were  seen  coming  from  the  eastward.  The  weather  is 
quite  thick,  with  occasional  snow-falls. 

The  sleighs  arrived  and  were  soon  alongside  the 
schooner,  and  proved  to  be  in  cliarge  of  Roach  and 
Hall,  from  Kickerton  Island.  They  had  started  two 
days  previous,  and  slept  one  night  on  the  ice.  They 
were  going  to  Niantilic  to  spend  the  holidays  with 
the  Scotchmen.  Xot  being  able  to  cross  the  gulf 
direct,  which  would  have  been  much  the  shorter  route, 
on  account  of  water,  they  are  taking  the  circuit  around 
its  head. 

We  soon  gave  them  a  substuiiial  supper,  and  ihey 
were  made  as  comfortable  as  possible.  They  are  very 
desirous  that  I  shall  accompany  them.-  I  do  not  feel 
like  going.  It  is  a  poor  time  of  the  year  to  travel,  the 
days  being  short  and  the  ice,  in  many  places  between 
the  island  and  the  shore,  where  the  current  runs  strong, 
being  scarcel}'  safe. 


3!)ecember  13. — Xep-e-ken  started  early  this  morning 
for  Molly  Kater-nuna.    Captain  Hall  and  Mr.  Kundein 
4 


50 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLOREXCE. 


uro  off  sealinc:,  and  Captain  Roach  and  myself  amuse 
ourselves  as  best  we  can.  lie  related  a  little  adven- 
ture he  had  at  Kickerton.  Just  as  the  ice  made  this 
fall  a  large  she-l^ear,  with  two  cubs,  made  her  appear- 
ance on  the  island.  Eoach's  nati  /es  got  sight  of  her, 
and  were  cm  the  alert  to  shoot  l:er.  So  was  lioach, 
who,  in  his  eagerness  to  get  a  good  shot,  got  too  near. 
Both  the  cubs  were  wounded  and  could  not  keep 
up  with  the  niother.  She  stood  at  bay  and  received 
several  bullets,  but  none  brouf!:ht  her  down.  She 
finally  sighted  Roach,  and,  rushing  toward  him,  she 
I'eared  on  her  hind  legs  and  placed  her  fore  paws  on 
his  shoulders  and  bore  him  down.  Then  the  dogs 
were  at  her  hind  parts,  and  she  released  Koach  from 
her  grasp  to  attack  them.  Koach,  thus  relieved,  re- 
gained his  feet;  but  she  was  loafh  to  leave  him,  and 
turned  on  him  with  more  fierceness  than  before.  lie 
was  again  borne  down,  but  the  infuriated  beast  was  so 
iiarassed  by  the  men  and  dogs  that  she  turned  and 
beat  a  precipitate  retreat,  recei  ing  several  shots  as  she 
ran.  The  cubs  were  captured,  and  the  mother  was 
next  tfay  found  dead  on  a  distant  part  of  the  island. 

I  have  concluded  to  accompany  Koacli  and  llall  on 
their  trip  to  Niantilic.  AYe  start  to-morrow.  Captain 
Hall  and  Mr.  Xumlein  n^turned  to-dav  from  sealinir. 
Thev  had  no  luck. 


% 


i 


t 


I 


On  the  morning  of  the  14th  we  were  oti'  at  daybreak. 


.ijlM.liLi^iiX.. 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


51 


It  was  blowing  quite  heiivily,  and  the  snow  was  drift- 
ing very  badly.  I  started  on  foot,  as  the  sleigh  was  not 
quite  ready;  but  I  had  noi  gone  very  far  before  Cap- 
tain Hall  overtook  me,  and  I  got  on  his  sleigh.  It  ap- 
pears that  Roach  had  some  ditheulty  in  finding  his  dogs, 
which  dehiyed  him.  We  had  gone  ten  miles,  perha[is. 
when  we  found  it  necessary  to  clean  the  doij^s'  liarnet^s. 
There  was  yet  no  si<rn  of  Roach.  I  was  not  very  well 
clad,  having  on  only  a  single  suit  of  deer-skin,  while 
the  others  had  double  suits.  The  wind  was  now  blow- 
ins:  ^^*-'^^y  -tronsf,  and  snow,  to  a  heisrht  of  eisrht  or  ten 
feet  al)ove  ihe  ice,  was  flying  so  thick  and  with  so 
much  violence  that  we  could  scarcely  see  the  don's 
twentv  feet  ahead  of  us. 

While  the  Esquimaux  were  cleaning  th(^  harness — 
they  both  had  Esquimaux  drivers — I  concluded  to  walk 
ahead,  expecting,  of  course,  that  the  sleigh  would  fol- 
low me  in  a  few  minutes.  I  kept  on  for  some  time, 
when  suddenlv  it  occurred  to  me  that  the  sleiirh  oujz-ht 
to  be  up  with  me.  I  looked  back,  but  could  see  noth- 
ing; the  snow  was  (h'ifting  too  thick  for  that.  I  walk- 
ed on  again,  thinking  the  sleigh  nmst  be  near,  and  I 
continued  walking  slowly  about  an  hour  longer,  and 
then  l)egan  to  get  alarmed.  I  knew  I  had  kept  in  the 
ric^ht  direction,  havinii;  the  wind  and  the  heavens  to 
U'uide  me. 

Certainly  the  sleigh  could  not  have  passed  me! 

I  started  back  on  my  track  to  see  what  occasioneii 


52 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


the  delay,  but  went  with  very  little  hope  of  finding  it. 
I  kept  the  trail  for  twenty  or  more  minutes,  and  then 
lost  it. 

The  drifting  snow  had  covered  it  completely.  I  was 
in  a  rather  avvkward  dilemma,  hut  there  was  no  alter- 
native but  to  wait  till  the  snow  ceased  to  drift,  so  tliat 
I  could  see  land,  wliich  could  be  reached  l)y  going 
in  the  direction  from  which  the  wind  came.  I  con- 
tinued walking  about  half  an  hour,  when  suddenly  I 
discovered  a  dark  ol)ject  through  the  di'ifting  snow. 
It  disappeared  almost  immediately  from  sight.  Soon 
after  I  saw  it  again,  and  it  again  vanished ;  again  it 
appeared  aiid  vanished;  but  I  was  walking  toward  it. 
A  moment  more  and  I  saw  two  dark  spots  on  the  ice. 
1  was  soon  up  with  the  objects  of  my  curiosit}',  which 
proved  to  be  Roach  and  llall. 

They  were  as  surprised  to  see  me  as  I  was  to  see  them. 

Hall,  on  cleaning  his  harness,  did  not  start,  but 
waited  for  Koach  to  come  up. 

Roach  had  been  delayed  by  his  dogs,  and  it  was 
some  time  before  he  came.  He  had  great  dilHculty 
in  seeing  and  keeping  Hall's  sled  tracks,  as  they  were 
almost  obliterated  l)y  the  dril'ting  snow  when  he  pass- 
ed over  them.  He  had  at  one  time  almost  resolved 
to  turn  back,  but  he  kept  on.  Upon  his  arrival  he 
Avas  astonished  and  alarmed  to  le'irn  that  I  had  gone 
on  ahead.  He  instantly  looked  for  my  tracks  near 
the  sleighs,  but  could  not  find  them. 


WINTER  IN  CUxMBERLAND  GULF. 


53 


Roach  was  an  old,  experienced  traveller,  and  he 
knew  my  peril.  Both  men  immediately  set  abont 
finding  my  trail.  Their  sleighs  were  driven  north 
and  then  south,  makins:  an  an2:le  at  every  turn.  They 
lioped  by  that  means  to  cross  my  track,  and  by  fol- 
lowing it  overtake  me.  That  was  what  they  were  do- 
ing when  I  discovered  them. 

We  stopped  to  refresh  ourselves  with  a  piece  of  froz- 
en pork  and  biscuit,  washed  down  with  a  little  diluted 
rum,  and  then  continued  on  our  way  toward  Molly 
Kater-nuna.  "We  could  not  see  to  guide  the  dogs,  but 
went  by  the  wind,  which  was  to  the  northward,  and 
kept  it  on  our  l)acks.  • 

The  sun  went  down  about  2  o'clock  p.m.,  and  short- 
ly after  the  wind  died  away.  We  I'ound  ourselves  too 
far  ofl'  shore,  and  had  to  haul  up  some  four  or  five 
points  for  our  place  of  destination  Night  came  on, 
and  we  were  still  far  from  Mo11\'  Kater-nuna;  but  the 
atmosphere  was  clear,  and  we  ...  ^  the  moon  to  guide 
us  with  her  friendly  lii2:ht. 

*/  CD 

We  had  not  proceeded  far,  after  this,  h  fore  wt  met 
with  a  disagreeable  mishap.  We  were  going  l)etweeu 
some  islands,  about  seven  miles  from  a  settlement  of 
Esquimaux,  when  suddenly  down  went  the  sleigh  that  I 
was  on.  I  was  half  asleep,  and  was  naturally  S(  )mewhat 
startled.  I  came  near  jumping  in  the  water,  '  saw 
the  situation  in  time  to  save  myself  from  a  cold  bath. 

The  after-part  of  the  sleigh  w'as  partly  submerged. 


II 


:i      •   ! 


'  i: 


54 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


iind  Koach's  driver,  a  young  Esquimaux,  went  in  the 
water  up  to  his  armpits. 

I  threw  myself  forward  as  the  sleigh  went  down, 
and  Lay  for  a  moment  with  my  feet  dangling  in  the 
water.  The  sled  was  heavily  laden  with  a  trunk  con- 
taining provisions,  sleeping  bags,  deer-skins,  and  many 
articles  useful  in  this  kind  of  travel. 

The  load  was  tilled  up  to  a  height  of  three  feet,  and 
on  the  top  of  this  we  sat,  when  we  rode. 

Roach,  who  was  driving,  was  sitting  on  the  forward 
end  of  the  sled,  which  was  still  resting  on  the  ice  as 
its  rear  went  down.  The  dogs  stopped  short  upon  the 
breakinof  of  the  ice,  but  it  was  onlv  for  a  moment. 
Koach  uttered  a  terrific  yell,  and,  with  a  flourish  of 
the  whip,  made  them  bound  forward  and  draw  the 
sled — with  Roach,  myself,  and  the  young  Esquimaux 
clinging  to  it — ^on  safer  ice,  and  there  we  halted. 
Hall,  who  was  in  the  rear,  profited  by  our  experience, 
and  avoided  the  weak  spot  in  the  ice. 

As  soon  as  we  stopped  the  boy  lay  down  in  the 
snow  and  began  to  roll.  This  was  to  dry  his  clothes; 
probably  upon  the  same  principle  as  that  on  which 
a  do2j  dries  himself  bv  shakinii:  when  he  comes  out 
of  the  water.  He  would  roll  awhile,  then  pound  his 
clothes  with  the  butt  of  his  whip,  and  repeat  this  ma- 
nauivre  until  he  was  satisfied. 

"We  now  refreshed  ourselves  again  with  a  little  froz- 
en pork  and  biscuit  and  some  rum. 


I 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF, 


55 


Affain  we  moved  on.  We  had  o;one  about  four 
miles,  and  were  about  three  from  the  settlements  just 
mentioned,  when  the  ice  broke  under  us  a  second 
time.  The  accident  was  not  so  serious  this  time,  how- 
ever, and  I  escaped  with  one  wet  moi^casin  and  the 
boy  with  two. 

We  resumed  our  journe}'  after  a  ])rief  stoppage,  and 
reached  the  Esquimaux  huts  at  7.30  p.  m.  The  natives 
mustered  in  force  to  see  who  the  new-comers  were. 
Among  tliem  I  found  ]N'ep-e-ken.  We  had  not  seen  his 
back-track,  and  I  concluded  that  he  was  still  at  Kater- 
nuna.  He  ttrrived  bere  on  the  evening  of  the  same 
dav  on  which  he  left  tlie  Florence.  He  traded  for 
quite  a  number  of  skins,  and  hired  two  sleighs,  with 
drivers,  to  accompany  him  back  and  assist  in  getting 
the  bone  to  the  schooner. 

All  three  sleighs  started  on  the  morning  of  the  14th 
for  the  schooner.  They  had  just  got  clear  of  the  shore 
ice,  when  down  went  Nep-e-ken's  sleigh,  and  he  and 
Eg-e-low,  who  was  with  him,  went  with  it.  The  two 
natives  on  the  other  sleighs  assisted  them  to  get  out, 
and  they  all  returned  to  the  huts,  two  of  them  wetter 
if  not  wiser  men.  Thev  were  drying  their  clothes 
when  we  arrived,  and  they  intend  to  start  again  in  the 
morn  in  ir. 


On   the  morning  of  the  ir)th  the  weather  proved 
clear,   but  very  cold,  with  a  light   breeze  from  the 


■i 


BE«Mft»JJ555S5IS5iftT!^?^ 


mmmmmmmmmmm 


:i 


; 


■'I 


56 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


north-west.  I  concluded  to  return  with  ^ep-e-ken. 
The  men  must  l)e  provided  with  provisions  for  then* 
journey,  and  they  n)ust  also  be  paid  when  through. 
Then,  too,  we  had  a  number  of  skins,  and  the  squaws 
must  be  put  at  work  cleaning  them  and  making  them 
into  clothing;  and  it  is  just  about  as  difficult  to  get 
some  of  these  squuws  to  work  as  it  is  to  get  some  of 
their  more  favored  sisters,  in  more  civilized  countries, 
to  do  the  same  thins;. 

Tlie  sleighs  were  made  ready  for  our  journey,  and, 
wishing  my  companions  a  pleasant  trip,  we  started  for 
the  schooner. 

Xep-e-ken's  sleigh  was  heavily  laden.  It  carried, 
l>esides  himself,  Eg-e-low  and  a  load  of  skins.  An- 
narkshuk,  one  of  the  hired  natives,  also  had  a  load  of 
skins;  but  he  had  good  dogs  and  a  fast  sleigh.  So  on 
his  sleigh  I  seated  myself  as  soon  as  we  got  clear  of 
the  shore  ice.  I  suppose  it  was  at  least  10  o'clock  in 
the  morning,  (it  is  not  daybreak  until  noon,)  and  it 
was  now  near  sunrise. 

Avoiding  the  dangerous  places  of  yesterday's  jour- 
ney, we  went  rapidly.  The  dogs  seemed  to  be  in  their 
best  liumor.  Upon  getting  clear  of  the  islands,  we 
found  the  ice  clear  and  firm. 

The  gale  of  yesterday  and  the  cold  snap  had  done 
much  to  improve  it.  We  took  a  shorter  route  than 
we  traversed  on  the  way  up,  as  the  weather  was  clear 
and  we  could  see  where  we  were  ffoinor. 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


57 


Coming  to  some  holes,  kept  open  l)ythe  strong  cur- 
rents, the  natives  stopped  to  get  a  seal,  if  possible; 
l)nt  they  did  not  succeed,  and  we  started  on. 

Our  dogs  kept  going  at  a  rapid  rate  until  we  reach- 
ed the  schooner,  which  we  did  at  2.45  p.  m.,  having 
travelled  some  fortv-iive  miles  in  less  than  six  hours! 

Nep-e-ken  and  tlie  other  sleigli  arrived  before  we 
2:ot  throuoch  dinner. 

On  the  morning  of  the  16th  the  natives  were  up  and 
doino-  brischt  and  earlv.  Three  sleiofhs  and  three  driv- 
ers  were  started  for  the  whale.  The  other  natives 
were  away  sealing. 

On  the  18th  the  sleighs  returned  with  three  light 
loads  of  bono. 

On  the  19th  thev  returned  for  the  remainder,  and 
got  back  the  same  night,  when  the  hired  natives  were 
paid  and  started  for  their  homes. 


We  were  now  settled  down  to  the  dull  and  monoto- 
nous life  of  winter  in  tlie  Arctic  regions. 

One  at  home  cannot  imagine  how  dull  this  life  is. 
Isolated  from  all  the  world,  we  must  make  a  world  of 
our  own ;  we  must  build  one  in  our  imaginations,  and 
picture  it  with  smiling  faces;  picture  to  ourselves  the 
grassy  lawn  of  the  new-born  spring,  the  budding  of 
the  trees, — their  blossoming  and  leaving,  their  luatur- 
itv  and  decav. 


r 


mmmm 


m 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


The  old  year  is  dving,  "  lioary  and  frosty  with  age." 
How  many  hopes  die  with  it! 

The  new  vear  is  comins^.  It  is  here  even  at  this 
moment.  It  is  horn! — the  yeaf  of  our  Lord  1878! 
It  comes  to  us  with  a  smihng  face,  as  if  happy  at  be- 
ins^  ushered  into  Time ! 

We  s[)ent  our  New-Year  as  pleasantly  as  possible 
under  the  circumstances,  forgetting  for  a  time  at  least 
that  we  were  in  the  icv  solitudes  of  the  Arctic,  fur 
isolated  fi'om  our  homes  and  friends. 

The  Esqiiimaux  are  sealing  every  favorable  day, 
but  they  are  having  poor  success. 

There  is  a  scarcity  of  seals  this  winter.  I  am  told 
that  List  winter  thev  were  plentv. 

Lee's  foot  is  in  a  bad  condition.  The  liesh  is  gone 
entirelv  from  the  heel,  leavins:  the  bone  bare.  The 
flesh  is  also  gone  from  the  side  of  the  foot  and  the 
toes,  from  one  of  which  latter  the  bone  is  protruding. 
We  keep  a  poultice  on  the  foot  continually,  and  I  hope 
to  save  the  frozen  member  from  amputation.  The 
other  two  men  are  all  ric^ht. 

upon  opening  some  boxes  the  other  day  I  found 
one  sent  by  Colonel  Lupton,  an  intimate  friend  of 
the  late  Captain  Hall.  It  contained  a  small  flag, 
which,  as  Colonel  Lupton  w^rites,  (for  a  letter  was 
also  found  in  the  box,)  accompanied  Doctors  Kane 
and  Hayes,  and  also  Captain  Hall,  in  their  perilous  ex- 
peditions in  the  Arcti3  seas.     There  was  also  a  large- 


i«ij 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


?j 


sized  photographic  portrait  (framed)  of  Captain  Hall. 
In  this  letter  the  Colonel  requests  that  the  flag,  which 
is  now  historical,  he  planted  at  the  northernmost  point 
of  the  earth  that  we  are  ahle  to  reach. 

The  snow  lies  heavily  npon  the  ice  and  presses  it 
down.  The  water  comes  up  through  the  pores  of  the 
ice,  and  between  water  and  snow  the  travelling  could 
not  be  worse.  The  slush  is  nearly  knee-deep.  The 
natives  are  getting  no  seals,  or,  at  least,  but  very  few  ; 
and  men,  women,  and  children  flock  to  the  schooner 
for  something  to  eat,  which  cannot  be  refused  them. 

We  get  all  the  seal-meat  we  can  for  Lee,  to  prevent 
the  scurvy  from  getting  in  his  foot.  He  is  doing  very 
well,  and  the  foot  will  be  saved. 

I  have  had  several  conversations  with  the  Esqui- 
maux in  rejrard  to  their  o^oing  with  us  to  the  East 
Land,  as  t\v\  always  call  the  coast  of  (Greenland. 
Some  say  they  will  go;  others  fear  to  go.  The  latter 
are  afraid  of  the  "mulling"  (sea)  in  such  a  little  ves- 
sel as  the  Florence.  Others,  again,  have  mothers  who 
do  not  want  them  to  go;  then,  again,  brothers  and 
sisters,  uncles  and  aunts  and  cousins,  and  I  do  not 
know  what  else. 

Nep-e-ken  has  promised  to  go;  also  Obe-tun,  Thu-nu- 
ping-nar,  Inue-mar-ket,  and  Al-o-kee,  making  live  in 
all.  I  have  also  the  promise  of  several  at  Niantilic; 
but  lieaven  only  knows  what  the  spring  will  bring 
forth.     If  so  many  vessels  were   not  there,  I  could 


GO 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


handle  the  natives  better.     Now  I  pretend  indifference 
whether  thev  i^o  or  not. 

On  the  1st  of  December  we  commenced  on  two 
nieuls  a  dav, — breakfast  at  9  A.  M. ;  dinner  at  3.30  P. 
M.  AVe  thus  save  some  provision  and  fuel,  the  hitter 
of  whicli  is  fijettins:  low. 


i 


January  passed  as  all  the  winter  months  generally 
do  in  the  Arctic.  The  weather  was  variable.  On 
some  davs  the  wind  blew  stronsc  'iiid  snow  fell  or 
drifted,  and  on  others  it  was  clear,  but  upon  all  cold. 
The  time  was  occupied  principally  in  keeping  tbe 
snowbank  around  the  ship  in  good  order;  cutting  a 
supply  of  ice  from  the  fresh  water  or  ice  ponds  for 
cooking  and  drinking  purposes;  keeping  the  squaws 
at  work  when  we  could  get  them  skins  to  work  on ; 
and  trying  to  keep  the  devil  as  far  from  us  as  possible. 
The  riiitives  have  occupied  their  time,  as  usual,  seal- 


ins; 


The  mates  and  myself  occasionall}'  have  to  clean 
our  berths.  They  are  directly  under  the  companion- 
way,  and  every  time  the  doors  are  opened  there  is  a 
rush  of  cold  air  from  above  into  the  cabin,  and  our 
state-rooms  being  directly  under,  it  centers  there  and 
turns  into  ice. 

The  lockers  and  the  drawers  are  in  the  same  con- 
dition.   Often,  when  about  to  retire,  I  find  the  blankets 


•"> 


i 


WINTER  IX  CUMBEllLANT)  OX'LF. 


Gl 


sreiice 


ii  two 

B.30  V. 

latter 


le  rally 
.  On 
fell  or 
1  cold, 
ig  the 
ttiiisc  a 
ids  for 
squaws 
rk  on; 
^ssible. 
l1,  seal- 

)  clean 
panion- 
re  is  a 
nd  our 
ire  and 

ne  con- 
lankets 


frozen  to  the  side  of  the  berth,  and  the  Ijooks,  papers, 
and  clothing  in  a  like  condition  IVoin  freezing.  Our 
kerosene  oil  is  also  frozen,  and  is  consequently  much 
injured. 

On  the  24th  of  January  the  mate  of  the  Hdei)  F.  ' 
arrived  from   Kickerton   Ishxnd,  bringing  Chummy, 
( Shu-mar-pi ng-ufer,)  who  went  over  to  American  Har- 
bor in  one  of  Murray's  boats  last  fall,  on  a  visit,  and 
was  carried  to  Niantihc. 

The  mate  informed  me  that  Roach  and  Hall  reached 
Niantilic  on  the  fourth  day  after  I  left  them.  He  also 
informed  me  that  the  only  whale  that  had  been  cap- 
tured by  any  of  the  four  ships  wintering  at  Xiantilic 
was  that  taken  by  Captain  Watson,  as  already  men- 
tioned. The  three  other  ships  are  cknir.  He  told  me 
that  the  ships  broke  out  from  their  winter  quarters  in 
the  tierce  November  gales  and  liad  a  narrow  escape, 
but  finally  regained  their  quarters,  Murray,  ^^ith  his 
steamer,  assisting  them. 

The  number  of  whales  taken  during  the  fall  in  the 
gulf  now  amounts  'to  five,— "Roach  two,  Hall  one,  Wat- 
son one,  and  our  crew  one ;  but  all  the  others  have  a 
chance  for  spring  whaling,  and  I  have  none. 

I  concluded  to  go  back  with  the  mate,  as  it  would 
be  a  break  in  the  monotonous  life  we  were  leading, 
and  prevailed  on  Fred,  the  mate;  to  stop  till  the  iol- 
lowino-  dav  and  give  his  dogs  a  good  rest  and  feed,  so 


V)2 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


II  i 


that  they  would  he  m  good  condition  to  continue  their 
iournov. 

Fred  had  been  two  days  coming  from  Kickerton  to 
Annanatook  Harbor.  lie  de>:cribed  the  travelling  as. 
very  bad. 

The  niornini^:  of  the  2ntli  we  had  an  early  start.  We 
were  accompanied  by  Eg-e-low,  who*  with  live  dogs 
and  a  sleigh,  was  going  to  the  Kickertons  for  a  wife 
(nuleangor).  Oc-a-took,  also  with  a  like  number  of 
doijcs  and  a  sleii^h,  was  sfoinii;  to  the  whale  for  dos;- 
meat,  and  would  spend  a  few  days  sealing  at  one  of 
the  many  holes  kept  open  by  the  currents  even  in  the 
coldest  winters.  We  had  scarcely  cleared  the  harbor 
when  we  fell  in  with  the  snow.  It  was  about  three 
feet  deep,  with  water  underneath. 

The  early  snow  was  still  there.  A  thin  crust  had 
formed  on  the  surface,  protecting  the  light  snow  be- 
neath from  wind  and  frost.  The  surface  crust  was 
not  stronc*  enouiirh  to  bear  the  weisrht  of  the  dos^s 
when  tliey  straightened  in  their  harness  to  pull. 

Fred,  who  had  fifteen  dogs  but  a  very  heavy  sleigh, 
had  the  lead,  but  he  soon  became  exhausted  driving 
and  urging  the  dogs  along;  st)  he  gave  three  dogs  to 
Oc-a-took,  and  asked  him  to  take  the  lead  with  his 
eight  and  small  sleigh.  This  he  did,  and  we  went 
along  somewhat  fasfer;  but  we  did  not  arrive  at  the 
whale,  which  was  on  our  line  of  journey,  until  even- 


■ji 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


68 


ing.  Here  we  sl'^pt.  The  dog^  were  exliiuisted.  Their 
feet  mid  legs  were  cat  by  tlie  snow  crust  and  were 
bleeding  at  every  step.  After  eating  a  piece  of  bis- 
cait  and  frozen  pork,  we  lay  down  on  the  ice  to  sleep. 

In  the  morning  we  were  up  by  dayl)reak.  The  dogs 
were  soon  harnessed,  and  we  wore  off.  We  ho[)ed  to 
reach  Kickerton  that  day,  have  a  good  warm  suijper, 
and  something  besides  ice  to  sleep  on.  Eg-e-low,  who 
was  still  with  us,  had  a  liii-ht  sled;  so  Fred  i^-ave 
Lim  three  dogs  and  he  took  the  lead.  Ei):-e-low^  had 
now  eight  dogs,  and  with  his  easy-running  sleigli  he 
went  along  very  well,  but  not  fast.  Our  dogs  were, 
of  course,  anxious  to  keep  up  with  him,  and  did  keep 
close  to  the  stern  of  his  sled.  At  sundown  we  were 
abreast  of  Ilav-stack  Island,  twelve  miles  from  Kick- 
erton. 

This  small  island  resembles  a  hav-stack  in  form; 
hence  its  name. 

It  was.  getting  dark,  and  though  clear  over  head 
the  atmosphere  was  thick  below.  We  kept  on,  hoping 
to  reach  the  station  bv  8  or  9  o'clock  that  evenino^. 
About  5  o'clock  in  the  evenins^  we  sisrhted  an  ishmd 
which  is  called  Calle  Coi'otes  Island.  It  is  a  small 
one,  about  three  miles  from  the  stati<^>n.  We  con- 
tinued to  drive  toward  the  island,  but  apparently  got 
no  nearer.  We  kept  on  in  this  way  until  about  8 
o'clock,  when  I  told  Fred  that  if  it  was  not,  for  the 
north  star,  which,  we  could  see,  I  should  think  Eg-e-low 


CA 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENX'E. 


was  driving  around  and  ai'ound  the  island,  ibr  we  were 
certainly  getting  ao  nearer  to  it,  but  were  a[)parently 
about  the  same  distance  from  it  that  we  were  three 
hours  lietbre. 

Fred  finally  called  to  Eg-e-low  to  stop,  and  they  both 
endeavored  to  ascertain  where  we  were,  which  was  a 
difficult  thini^  to  do,  owinii:  to  the  mist.  Fresentlv  the 
native  ejaculated,  with  a  grunt,  *'Ivickertojuck!  Kick- 
ertohu'k !  "  '' The  hi":  ishuid  !  The  bio;  island ! "  And 
he  was  ri<»*ht;  we  were  in  the  entrance  to  Ivins^nito 
Fiord,  and  the  big  island  Ivickertqjuck  stood  before 
us,  with  its  bold  shores  reaching  an  ele^'ation  of  some 
three  tliousand  feet  above  our  heads.  There  was  noth- 
iuii^  to  do  but  to  make  the  best  oi'  it.  We  had  come 
from  llay-stack  Island  to  Kickertojuck,  a  distance  of 
twelve  miles.  The  same  amount  of  travel  in  the  riii^hl 
direction  would  have  carried  us  to  the  station.  W^e 
were  now  about  ten  miles  north-east  of  the  station. 
The  })Oor  dogs  were  moaning  piteously  with  pain  aiid 
fatii>:uo. 

Tlie  weather,  tbouijrh  clear  in  tlie  zonitli,  was  heavv 
and  thick  l)e1ow. 

It  was  necessary  to  pass  another  night  on  the-  ice;  s:», 
eating  a  [)iece  of  bread  and  [lork,  wc  drew  our  deer-skin 
jackets  (couletangs)  about  us  and  composed  ourselves 
for  slee[);  at  least  I  did.  I  was  awakened  several 
times  durino;  the  u\^\\t  bv  the  moaniuii;  of  the  cloi>'s, 
and  by  Fred  in  the  morning,  when  he  was  stamping 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


(j^ 


»>  », 


his  feet  to  get  them  warm  and  passing  some  cursory 
vemarks  npon  tlie  dogs  for  eating  their  harness. 

After  making  necessary  repairs  to  the  harness,  we 
started  for  the  station,  and  arrived  there  about  2 
o'clock  P.  M.  We  were  met  by  the  four  captains,  who 
extended  a  warm  greeting  to  us.  Soon  we  were  re- 
galed with  something  to  eat,  to  which  we  did  ample 

justice. 

I  staid  at  the  Kickertons  until  the  14th  of  February. 
Nothing  unusual  occurred  during  my  stay,  except  one 
very  heavy  ijale,  which  beo'an  on  the  11th  and  abated 
on  the  morning  of  the  13th. 

On  the  morning  of  the  18th,  everything  being  ready 
and  the  gale  having  died  out,  Koach  and  Fred  decided 
to  go  np  with  me.  The  dogs  were  haruessed,  the  sled 
was  loaded,  and  Fred  got  on  the  sleigh  to  drive  the 
doo-s  down  over  the  rough  shore  ice,  which  here  ex- 
tended  some  four  or  five  hundred  yards,  the  shore 

being  Hat. 

There  was  a  track  leading  through  thi.^  rough  ice, 
made  by  the  Esquimaux  going  to  and  fro  from  Kicker- 
ton  Island,  some  twelve  miles  to  the  nortli.  The  dogs, 
being  fresh,  started  otf  with  a  bound.  On  i.ntering  the 
rough  ice  Fred  was  thrown  some  ten  feet  from  the  sleigh. 
The  dogs  were  now  their  ow'i  masters.  They  did  not 
stop,  but  continued  on  until  they  brought  up  at  Hay- 
stack Island,  where  they  were  stopped  hy  the  natives. 
I  walked  back  to  the  lioase  with  Uv)ach.      We  were 


06 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


scarcely  one  hundred  yards  from  it  when  the  misliap 
occurred.  The  dogs  and  sleigh  were  brought  back 
that  night,  and  we  conckided  to  make  another  start  in 

the  morning. 

Tlie  weather  on  the  morning  of  the  14th  was  line, 
and  we  got  away  early.  Roach  had  all  hands  out,  and 
lashino'iTlong  oog-jook  line  to  the  rear-part  of  the  sleigh, 
the  men  held  on^o  the  line  while  the  sleigh  was  going 
through  the  rough  ice. 

Once  getting  through  the  shore  ice,  the  dogs  were 
stopped  and  the  harness  was  cleaned.  Then  we  seated 
ourselves  on  the  sleigh,  the  dogs  were  let  go,  and  away 
we  went  ox'er  the  rough  but  hard  ice ;  now  on  top  of 
some  rough  lyiece  of  ice,  and  then  down  with  the  speed 
of  lightning  on  the  other  side. 

Twice  the  sleigh  brought  up  with  such  force  as  to 
send  us  all  headlong  among  the  dogs.  We  continued 
throudi  this  rough  ice  ten  or  twelve  miles,  and  were 
cono>nitulating  ourselves  on  having  good  though  rough 
travelling,  when  suddenly  we  struck  the  deep-  snow. 
The  dogs  no  longer  went  on  a  clean  run.  They  were 
breast-deep  in  the  soft  snow,  and  even  without  a  heavy 

sleio-h  and  load  it  would  have  been  severe  pulling  for 

i^ 

them. 

The  poor  animals  had  at  least  one  thousand  or  twelve 
hundred  pounds  behind  them.  There  were  three  good- 
sized  men,  weighing  in  the  aggregate  at  least  live  hun- 
dred pounds ;  two  large  bags  of  dog-meat,  weighmg 


¥ 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


67 


ip 


about  three  hundred ;  one  chest  of  provisions,  a  saw, 
knife,  two  guns,  a  spear,  and  two  or  three  pieces  of 
bear  and  dog  skin,  which  Latter  we  intended  using 
for  bedding  shouhl  we  be  caught  over  night ;  and  then 
there  was  the  sleigh,  weighing  about  one  hundred 
pounds.  We  had  seventeen  dogs,  and  good  ones,  too, 
they  were.  With  good  sledding  we  would  have  gone 
over  the  ice  at  the  rate  of  eight  or  ten  miles  an  hour. 
As  it  was,  we  were  not  making  more  than  two.  We 
went  on  wading  through  the  snow,  how  jumping  off 
the  sled  to  help  the  dogs,  and,  getting  out  of  breath, 
taking  our  places  again  on  the  sleigh,  each  taking  his 
turn  at  helping  the  dogs  along,  until  late  in  the  even- 
ting, when,  both  men  and  animals  being  thoroughly 
tired,  we  .stopped  and  unharnessed  the  dogs,  to  prevent 
them  from  eating  their  harness  during  the  night.  We 
took  a  few  mouchfuls  to  eat,  and,  spreading  our  bear, 
and  dog  skins,  we  lay  down  to  sleep.  Twice  I  was 
awakened  in  the  night  by  Fred  getting  up  and  stamp- 
ing to  get  his  feet  warm,  and  once  by  one  of  the  dogs 
trying  to  make  a  bed  of  my  head.  I  objected  to  the 
latter  proceeding,  and  the  animal  was  content  to  lie 
alono:side  of  me. 


The  mornino-  of  the  18th  was  line,  and  we  were  un- 
(ler  wav  bv  davbreak.  Tlie  trjivel  was  notliing  more 
nor  less  than  a  repetition  of  tlie  day  before.  It  was  evi- 
dent that  the  heavy  gale  we  had  at  Ivickerton  three  days. 


m 


y 


68 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


before  did  not  reach  here.  The  snow  was,  if  anything, 
deeper  than  when  I  came  down.  Just  before  dark  we 
struck  an  old  track,  and  the  dogs  pricked  up  their  ears, 
threw  up  their  tails,  and  went  along  rriiich  faster  than 
before.  The  snow,  too,  in  this  track  was  not  so  deep 
as  elsewhere,  which  made  the  travelling  still  better. 
The  wind  breezed  up  from  the  west,  bringing  snow 
with  it;  but  the  dogs  had  the  trail,  and  it  must,  in- 
deed, be  a  bad  condition  of  weather  that  could  make 
thein  lose  it. 

The  snow  became  less  and  less  deep  as  w^e  went  to- 
ward the  north-west.  We  were  thus  enabled  to  make 
good  headway,  and  [it  6.30  o'clock  we  were  alongside 
the  Florence, 

The  dogs  were  delighted  to  gel  to  the  vessel,  and 
did  not  stop  until  they  had  ascended  the  ice  steps 
which  we  have  alongside. 

I  now  learned  that  Xep-e-ken  had  been  very  sick,  but 
was  convalescent ;  also  that  the  gale  which  we  had  at 
luckerton  did  not  extend  this  far.  The  natives  had 
taken  a  few  seals.  Jonah  and  Clumimy  had  gone  to 
^iantilic, — the  iirst  for  a  wife  for  himself,  and  the  sec- 
ond for  a  wife  for  Eg-e-low,  who  had  failed  to  get  one 
at  Ivickerton. 

Everything  now  goes  along  as  usual.  We  eat, 
drink,  sleep,  read,  write,  and  play  cards. 

Koach  and  his  mate  started  for  home  on  the  18th. 
Several  dotr- teams  have  arrived  from  Kater-nuna. 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


k 


One  of  the  Esquimaux  women  from  Molly  Kater-nuna 
o-ave  birth  to  a  child  the  mornins:  of  the  15th.  She 
is  a  young  squaw,  but  is  more  prolific  than  the  abori- 
gines of  the  Arctic  regions  usually  are,  as  this  makes 
her  third  chiki  now  living.  I  was  on  shore  the  day 
before  her  conlinement,  and  noticed  her  husband 
Wino-a  was  busy  in  buildins;  a  small  iglau  or  snow- 
house,  about  the  size  of  a  dog  kennel.  I  asked  1  loach 
what  in  the  world  he  was  building  such  a  small  house 
for.  lie  answered  that  the  man's  wife  was  about  to 
be  confined.  Of  course  I  then  understood  the  situa- 
tion. I  have  often  seen  these  little  snow  huts  put  up 
in  the  coldest  weather,  and  the  poor  wife,  no  matter 
how  cold  it  is,  is  compelled  to  take  shelter  therein, 
and,  without  attendance,  is  tliere  delivered.  She  is 
her  own  doctress  and  nurse,  and  washes  and  dresses 
the  little  stranger.  She  remains  in  the  hut  a  few  days, 
and  then  returns  to  her  people. 

On  the  19th  Jonah  and  Chummy  returned  from 
KiautiUc,  bringing  two  squaws:  one,  Chunnny's  wife; 
the  other,  Tow-poung,  the  affianced  of  Eg-e-low.  All 
this  means  hard  bread  and  pork  from  the  Florence,— 
a  fact  of  which  I  am  duly  made  aware.  It  will  be  an 
addition  of  two  to  our  already  large  family. 

Clunnmy  reports  that  scurvy  is  raging  among  the 
men  at  Niantilic.  So  far  there  has  not  been  even  the 
least  appearance  of  it  among  our  crew.  They  are  all 
well,  excepting  Lee,  and  his  foot  has  healed  and  is  as 


hU 


70 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


.i   :  ! 


I 


natural  as  before,  save  a  small  spot  on  the  ball  of  the 
heel. 

On  the  24th  Eoach's  mate,  Fred,  came  from  Kick- 
erton  on  a  dog  sled.  He  reports  two  very  heavy 
gales  at  Kickerton.  We  have  had  none  here.  An- 
nanatook  Harbor  should  be  named  Pacific  Harbor. 

Having  forgotten  or  neglected  to  bring  ink,  I  am 
compelled  to  manufacture  my  own,  which  is  done 
with  gunpowder  and  vinegar. 

Koach's  mate  staid  two  da^'s,  and  then  left  for  home. 

Nep-e-ken,  Ete-tun,  Kim-mock-kone,  Eg-e-low,  Al-o- 
kee,  Inue-mar-ket,  and  families  have  removed  to  Glou- 
cester Island,  some  ten  or  twelve  miles  distant,  where 
they  hope  to  get  seal.  This  makes  my  family  at  the 
schooner  somewhat  smaller;  but  we  appear  to  have 
just  as  many  to  feed.  Every  Monday,  all  through  the 
winter,  has  been  provision  day  ^  that  is,  the  day  the 
provision  or  weekly  allowance  was  dealt  out  to  the 
squaws  and  children.  In  the  commencement  of  the 
winter  I  forbade  the  squaws  and  children  coming  to 
the  vessel.  In  lieu  thereof  I  gave  them  four  pounds 
of  bread,  one  cup  of  green  tea  or  coffee,  and  one  quart 
of  molasses  weekly ;  but,  seals  being  scarce,  and  some 
of  the  squaws  having  tw^o  or  three  children,  they  would 
soon  consume  that  small  allowance,  and  of  course  I 
could  not  see  them  suffer.  After  their  allowance  was 
gone  I  let  them  come  to  the  vessel  for  additional  sup- 
plies, and  gave  to  each  a  little  boiled  meal  and  mo- 


i 

t 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


71 


lasses  and  a  cup  of  cofiee  or  tea.  In  this  way  I  have 
fed,  including  the  crew,  thirty-five  or  forty  persons 
shice  the  1st  of  Octoher. 

Nothing  strange  or  new  has  occurred  during  the 
month  of  February. 

We  have  had  snow-storms  now  and  then  through- 
out the  month. 


March  ushered  itself  in  without  ceremonv.  The 
weather  was  verv  cold,  hut  it  was  bnc-iit  and  sunshinv. 
We  received  occasional  visits  from  the  natives  en- 
camped at  Gloucester  Island,  but  they  brought  but 
little  seal-meat.  Thev  had  causcht  but  few  seals ;  in 
fact,  scarcely  enousrh  to  furnish  them  oil  for  their 
lamps.  Captain  Hall's  cooper  was  here  recently  look- 
ing for  seal-skin,  for  which  he  wished  to  trade. 

March  15. — The  last  fourteen  days  have  been  in- 
tensely cold.  The  thermometer  indicated  minus  35"^ 
to  45°  daily.  The  Esquimaux  are  catching  a  few 
seals,  but  even  they  complain  of  the  cold. 

Nep-e-ken  was  here  on  the  13th,  after  the  weekly 
ahowance  to  the  natives  at  Gloucester  Island.  He 
brought  us  some  skins  and  seal-meat,  and  reports  very 
strong  wind  at  the  island.  We  have  experienced  no 
unusual  winds  here, — a  strange  fact,  in  view  of  the 
proximity  of  the  two  localities.  I  dispatched  Oc-a- 
took  with. a  quantity  of  "trade"  to  Molly  Kater-nuna 


7-2 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


\ 


tliii^  nioriiiiig,  to  trade  for  skins,  and  lie  took  two  deer- 
skins, wliicli  are  used  instead  of  thread  in  making  up 
skin-clotliino;.  He  only  had  live  do2:s  hitched  to  his 
slei«rh.  Nearlv  all  of  our  doi!;s  have  died.  The  weath- 
er  is  now  nioderatiuii^.  The  thermometer  rei^istered 
minus  35°  last  night,  and  this  morning  minus  12°. 
It  is  still  getting  warmer,  and  a  storm  is  threatening. 
In  a  few  days  the  natives  will  choose  their  locations 
for  the  young  sealing.  Each  Esquimaux  takes  a  par- 
ticular section,  several  miles  in  extent.  These  seals — 
tiie  '-netzik"  of  the  Es{pnmaux — are  their  chief  food 
in  winter,  and  furnish  the  skins  of  which  they  make 
their  summer  clothing.     They  are  smaller  than  the 

CD  v 

kiolick^ — or,  as  the  English  call  them,  the  "  saddle- 
back"— of  the  east  coast  of  Greenland  and  the  coast 
of  Labrador.  Great  numl)ers  of  them  are  taken  each 
spri^ig  by  English,  Scotch,  and  Newfoundland  whaling 
crews,  and  one  would  naturally  suppose  that  this  whole- 
sale destruction  would  destroy  them  in  these  seas;  yet, 
strange  to  say,  it  has  caused  no  appreciable  diminution 
of  their  numbers. 

The  kiolick  or  saddle-back  seal  has  its  young  on  the 
drift  or  pack  ice,  and  this  renders  them  eas}'  to  capture 
when  the  vessel  once  ^irets  amonsr  them.  They  lie  on 
the  ice  by  the  thousand ;  at  times  they  extend  as  far 
as  tlie  eve  can  reach  from  the  crowd's  nest — or,  as  an 
Americrai  would  sav,  from  the  mast-head — with  a  good 
telescope.     In  hunting  them,  there  is  nothing  to  do 


I 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


73 


f 


but  get  off  the  vessel  to  the  ice  mid  knock  them  in  the 
head  with  a  seal  club,  and  then  skin  tlieni  and  drag 
them  to  the  ship.  Some  of  tlie  large  steamers  carry 
many  men, — from  one  hundred  to  two  hundred. 
Therefore  the  work  of  destruction  goes  on  rapidly. 

The  men  are  most  all  experienced  hands,  many  of 
them  having  followed  the  business  for  vears.  The 
netzik — more  timid  than  its  cousin,  the  kiolick — -has 
its  young  under  the  ice,  or,  more  properly  speaking, 
between  the  ice  and  snow.  It  chooses  a  place  where 
the  snow^  lies  deep  upon  the  ice,  and,  commencing 
underneath,  will  burrow  with  its  fore  flippers  a  hole 
through  the  hard  sea  ice  until  it  comes  to  the  snow, 
when  it  stops  boring  upward  and  begins  to  buri'ow 
lonij:itudinally  alons:  the  hard  surface  of  the  ice  under 
the  snow.  It  makes  its  eglow  or  burrow  quite  large  ; 
perhaps  fifteen  feet  long  and  six  wide.  The  hole 
throuii'h  tlie  ice  furnishes  access  to  the  sea.  The  ea:- 
low  is  covered  with  from  two  to  five  feet  of  snow,  and 
this  makes  it  impossible  to  hunt  them  without  the  aid 
of  (loiTs,  which  scent  the  eorlows  throusch  the  snow. 
The  (loses,  beiii":  harnessed  and  held  in  bv  a  strap  or 
line,  will  lead  the  hunter  to  a  spot  directly  over  the 
eglow,  and  will  then  stop  and  whine  and  scratch.  The 
hunter  then  breaks  through  the  snow,  and  often  se- 
cures both  old  and  young ;  but  if  the  young  one  be 
well  grown  l)oth  mother  and  young  will  escape  into 


74 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


i! 


'( 


the  sea,  unless  tlie  hunter  is  quick  in  making  his 
attack. 

These  seals  are  very  beautiful  when  young.  Tlieir 
coats  are  white  and  their  hair  silky,  making  excellent 
winter  clothiui?.  When  about  two  weeks  old  they 
connnence  to  shed  their  coats,  which  are  replaced  by 
others  of  liorht  srrav  in  color  and  silkv  in  texture.  Tliev 
are  at  this  time  very  delicate  eatinsc. 

Al-o-kee  has  just  returned  from  Gloucester  Island. 
lie  report*  that  very  few  seals  have  been  caught  there. 

I  have  just  received  from  Shu-mar-ker  a  neat  wood- 
en case,  containing  three  ivory  needles.  Attached  to 
the  case  were  a  leather  and  an  ivorv  thimble,  such  as 
are  used  by  the  natives  when  they  are  not  in  commu- 
nication with  the  ships.  They  also  make  from  bone, 
knives,  seal  spears,  and  harpoons;  the  latter  for  use  in 
capturing  the  great  bow-head  whale. 

Tradition  teaches  the  Esquimaux  that  many  years 
ago  they  were  very  numerous,  and  that  game  was 
then  more  abundant  than  now^;  that  their  forefathers 
enjoyed  themselves  hugely,  some  of  them  having 
manv  wives ;  that  the  men  of  different  tribes  warred 
with  one  another,  one  tribe  often  surprising  another 
and  stealing  its  women ;  and  that  to  avoid  surprises 
tribes  often  encamped  and  fortified  themselves  upon 
high  islands,  from  which  they  hurled  down  death  and 
destruction  upon  the  invader. 

They  believe  in  a  Supreme  Bemg,  and  their  ankoots 


■% 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  (JULF. 


75 


are  supposed  to  communicate  with  it.  Tliev  also  be- 
lieve in  an  evil  s[)irit,  and  think  that  after  deatli  the 
bad  will  go  to  a  different  place  from  the  good.  Fpon 
the  death  of  one  of  their  number  thej  phice  all  his 
hunting  implements  beside  his  grave,  to  assist  him-  in 
his  journey  to  the  next  world.  They  also  carry  food 
to  his  grave  and  deposit  it  there.    For  three  days  they 


do  this:  then  th( 


h 


his 


ley  suppose  ne  is  tar  enough  on 
journey  to  need  no  more.  The  men  are  separated 
from  the  women  in  continement,  and  in  their  monthly 
sickness,  or  menses.  Infanticide  is  practiced,  but  the 
females  are  the  ones  ii^encnrilv  destroved.  Amoiicr  tlie 
western  tribes  this  terrible  practice  prevails  to  such  an 
extent  that  there  are  not  women  enough  to  furnish 
wives  for  the  men.  Thev  are  a  small  race,  resemblini? 
the  Chinese  or  Japanese.  They  have  ^ery  small  hands 
and  feet,  and  dark  and  coarse  hair.  As  yet  I  have 
not  seen  one  bald.  They  have  fine  teeth,  and  S'>me  of 
the  young  girls  are  quite  good-looking;  but  they  l.)reak 
down  early,  and  after  this  they  arc  hideous. 

Chastity  is  unknown  among  them.  The  men  often 
exchange  wives  for  a  time.  No  marriage  rites  or  forms 
are  observed.  The  man  merely  chooses  a  companion, 
and  if  she  does  not  suit  she  is  soon  cast  aside. 

The}^  eat  their  meat  and  tish  both  raw  and  cooked. 
The  story  of  their  drinking  large  quantities  of  train 
oil  is  a  fable.  They  take  a  little  blubber  with  their 
meat,  to  help  digestion,  as  we  eat  fat  with  ours. 


.-<  I 


li 


76 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


They  are  dirty  from  circiunstiiu^es.  Put  a  white 
man  here  without  soap  or  water  and  he  would  be  no 
cleaner  than  the  Esquimaux.  In  fact,  the  Esquimaux 
are  much  cleaner  than  some  of  our  neighbors,  whom 
it  is  very  difficult  to  distinguisli  from  the  dirty  and 
dark  natives  of  the  Arctic  zone. 


'.Ik.' 
I 


March  16. — A  stormy  day,  with  a  strong  breeze 
from  the  north-west  and  snow.  The  thermometer, 
which  had  been  ransrino^  verv  low  throuii^h  the  earlv 
part  of  the  month,  fell  to  zero. 

Kep-e-ken  and  his  party,  bag  and  baggage,  arrived 
in  the  evening.  He  bad  come  for  a  visit  prior  to  his 
dcj^arture  for  the  young  sealing.  He  informed  us  that 
at  Gloucester  Island,  a  place  formerly  noted  for  its 
abundance  of  seals,  they  could  scarcely  catch  enough 
to  eat.  The  same  scarcity  prevailed,  he  said,  at  all 
other  parts  of  the  gulf  that  we  have  heard  from. 

The  Esquimaux  here  catch  little  or  nothing,  and  we 
must,  of  course,  feed  them.  I  believe  that  had  the  ships 
not  visited  Cumberland  Gulf  this  season  the  natives 
would  have  suffered  greatly  for  food. 

We  cleaned  out  the  run  of  the  Florence  to-day,  hav- 
ing used  all  the  coal  from  that  quarter. 


March  17. — The  storm  is  over;  the  weather  this 
mornins;  was  clear  and  cold.  The  thermometer  stood 
at  minus  25°.    Nep-e-ken  brought  me  off  a  young  seal. 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  (JULF. 


77 


It  had  apparently  just  made  its  di'l)Ut,  and  it  as  rpiiok- 
Iv  made  its  exit.  It  was  ahont  sixteen  inches  lonir.  I 
wished  to  sret  it  stntled  for  mv  little  hov. 

There  was  a  beautiful  halo  around  the  moon  last 
night,  a  mock  moon  a[»pearing  on  each  side  of  tlie  real 
moon  and  on  the  ring  of  the  halo.  As  for  the  auroras, 
we  see  them  often,  but  none  verv  brilliant  this  winter. 
Mr.  Sherman,  who  is  up  at  all  times  in  the  night,  has 
reported  some  very  brilliant  displays. 

Chummy  tells  us  that  at  times  in  these  nortliern  lat- 
itudes it  rains  tish,  tiesh,  and  fowl.  He  also  tells  me 
that  very  often  the  Iimuits  or  Esquimrnx  see  white 
deer  and  white  seals,  and  that  they  (the  latter)  come 
direct  from  the  heavens. 

Oc-a-took  arrived  this  evenini!;  from  Molh'  Ivater- 
nuna,  bringing  a  strange  native  with  him.  Tie  brought 
also  six  deer-skins,  three  seal-skins  suitable  for  cloth- 
ing, a  good  quantity  of  ewidlow,  (deer-sinew.)  iind  a 
piece  of  oog-jook,  which  will  be  good  for  boot  soles. 
This  was  not  a  very  extensive  trade.  There  are  too 
many  ships  in  the  gulf,  ami  it  makes  the  skin  market 
poor  for  the  buyer  and  correspondingly  good  for  the 
seller.  Oc-a-took  reports  a  very  heavy  gale  of  wind 
at  Kater-nuna  last  night,  which  was  still  raging  when 
he  left.  Ete-tuu  re[)orts  verj'  heavy  winds  at  Glouces- 
ter Island.  He  arrived  with  his  family  to-day.  While 
I  am  writing  this  we  have  another  arrival,  Pe-ker,  from 
Kater-nuna,  who  brings  six  deer-skins  for  trade.     We 


!l 


78 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


have  fed  about  forty  persons  to-day — men,  woiiien,  and 
children. 


Ill; 


March  18. — Weather  clear  and  cold.  Thermom- 
eter indicates  minus  25°.  Most  of  the  Esquimaux  are 
off  seal-hunting.  They  returned  this  evening  with 
only  one  seal.  Tins  is  allowance  day,  and  bread,  mo- 
lasses, tea,  and  coffee  were  dealt  out  to  the  w\>men. 
Nep-e-ken  brought  me  nineteen  seal-skins  yesterday. 
We  have  quite  a  number  in  the  hold,  but  cannot  do 
much  with  them  until  the  weather  gets  warmer. 

March  19. — Clear  and  cold.  Esquimaux  off  sealing. 
They  returned  without  game,  but  were  ready  ibr  their 
mush,  bread,  and  pork.  Sawed,  split,  and  sent  wood 
to  the  observatory  to-day  for  Mr.  Sherman.  Pe-ker 
left  to-day  for  Kater-nuna,  promising  to  bring  me  some 
young  seal-skins  tliis  spring. 

# 

March  20. — Light  northerly  wind.  Thermometer 
fell  in  the  night  to  minus  "^5°.  It  rose  in  the  middle 
of  the  day  lo  miruis  15°.  Some  of  the  Esquimaux  are 
preparing  to  start  for  the  young  sealing. 

Ivim-mock-kone  and  Inu.-mar-ket  have  gone  to- 
day with  sled  and  dogs  to  make  a  track  to  the  young- 
sealing  phice. 

We  have  had  as  yet  no  indications  of  the  equinoc- 
tial srales. 


jS-dSKtli^Wtl^^jl-  ^l^^j^i^r 


f 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


79 


March  21. — Cloudy,  willi  light  snow  and  light  west- 
erly wind. 

Xep-e-kon  and  his  party  are  preparing  to  leave  for 
tlie  vounc^  sealino^. 

Bhu-niai'-ker  yesterday  found  two  seals  chat  had 
heen  ca})tured  hy  foxes,  and  their  heads  were  eaten 
off.  The  foxes  destroy  in  this  manner  many  younff 
seals.  The  natives  returned  this  evenmg  from  their 
seal-hunt  without  game.  I  -m  almost  out  of  patience 
witli  them.  Tlieir  failure  to  get  seals  makes  it  had 
for  us.  They  devour  our  food,  and  we  (^at  in  retm-n 
neither  seal-meat  nor  skins.  I  havo  fitted  out  Ne])-e- 
ken  and  his  party  witli  hread,  coffee,  tea,  molasses,  and, 
of  course,  tohacco  and  pipes.  They  start  in  the  morn- 
ing, to  he  gone,  I  hope,  a  month  or  six  weeks. 


March  22. — This  mornino^,  ahout  3  o'clock,  a  vorv 
strong  wind  hegan  hk)wing  from  the  south-etist,  with 
snow.  The  hju'ometer,  liowever,  was  rising  fast,  and 
I  knew  that  the  gale  could  not  last  long.  As  I  conjec- 
tured, at  sunrise  the  i2:ale  al»ated  and  the  wind  hauled 
to  the  westward;  l)ut  it  had  lastcil  long  enough  to 
frighten  the  Esijuimaux  from  their  contemplated  jom'- 
ney.  Thermometer  plus  15^  this  noon, — the  warmest 
dav  we  have  had  for  some  time. 


March  23.^Cloudv  and  rrr'/war:-!.     Thermometer 
[)his  22'-^  at  noon.     Xe[»-e-ken  and  party  started  early 


80 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


'I 


k-5i    , 


this  niornino;.  Slni-iiiar-ker  eauo^ht  a  vouno;  seal  and 
its  mother.  I  have  procured  the  young  one  for  a 
specimen. 

Two  Esquimaux  came  from  Kater-nuna  j'csterday. 
I  ti'aded  with  them  for  four  young  seal-skins,  one  l)ear- 
skin,  and  some  deer-sinews.  One  of  these  Es(|ui>!iaux, 
wlio  is  without  that  very  necessary  hut  sometimes  un- 
ruly convenience,  a  wife,  wislied  to  carry  away  one  of 
the  fair  damsels  of  Annanatook.  All  that  was  want- 
ing was  the  fair  one's  consent;  hut  she  was  coy. 

Eg-e-low  arrived  this  morning  with  his  bride.  Thev 
had  spent  tlieir  honeymo(m  in  a  snow  hut,  put  up  for 
the  occasion,  somewhere  between  here  and  Gloucester 
Island. 


March  24.— Clear  and  warm.  Little  pudtHes  of 
snow  and  ice  wjiter  were  noticed  on  deck, — a  cheerijig 
sign  of  the  approach  of  warmer  weather.  This  has 
been  an  exceptional  month.  The  tirst  eighteen  or 
twenty  days  were  very  cold,  with  liglit  wind,  at  least 
at  Aimanatook,  and  now  the  weather  has  suddenlv 
moderated  and  the  thermometer  shows  a  change  of 
i'rom  minus  40°  or  50°  to  the  freezing  point,  —a  change 
of  from  70-  to  80°  in  temperature. 

The  Esrpiimaux  are  all  otl'  young  soalin^'-.  Eo--o- 
low  departed  with  his  bride  this  morning  for  a  sealing 
tri[).  His  outfit  consisted  of  one  rather  dilapidated 
sleigh,  three  good  dogs  and  one  lame  one,  four  or  five 


PPP" 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  (iULP. 


81 


t 


deer-skins  for  his  nuptial  concli,  snn<lry  pieces  of  hlab- 
ber  and  seal-meat,  five  pounds  of  bread,  one  quai'l  ot 
molasses,  and  two  ounces  of  tea.  One  cjin  easily  per- 
ceive that  the  necessities  of  tViese  aborigines  arc  but 
few.  Where  niglit  ovei'takes  them  they  put  up  a  few 
blocks  of  snow  to  protect  themselves  from  the  wind, 
spread  their  skins  on  the  ice,  and  sleep. 

March  25. — Cloudy,  hght  snow,  and  light  soutberly 
wind.  Some  of  the  Esquimaux  are  oif  hunting  young 
seal.  One  of  them,  Shu-uuir-ker,  is  laid  up  with  snow- 
bhndness.  Others  are  making  snow-shoes,  as  the  snow 
is  quite  deep  and  travelling  difficult.  The  spoils  of 
vesterdav's  hunt  were  twelve  seals  —  ten  young  ones 
and  two  old  ones.  One  of  the  old  ones  was  a  male. 
The  netzik  male  seal  at  five  years  of  age  has  a  most 
disgusting  smell.  The  natives,  however,  relish  the 
meat.  Indeed,  some  of  them  prefer  it  to  the  younger 
and  sweeter  meat.  I  In'cakfasted  this  morning  on  the 
liver  of  the  female  seal  caught  yesterday.  These  livers 
are  very  sweet,  and  we  [)rize  them  highly.  Tbc  liver 
of  the  laroje  bearded  seal  is  corrupt;  not  edil)le.  So, 
also,  is  the  liver  of  the  polar  bear,  especially  the  old 
ones.  The  oog-jook  of  Davis's  Strait,  Cumberland 
Gulf,  Hudson's  Strait,  and  adjacent  waters,  I  considci- 
the  same  as  the  oosurk  (or  ursnrk,  or  oozook)  of  Green- 
land. It  has  an  attuk  (here  called  an  eglow)  or  blow- 
hole in  the  ice.  I  have  seen  them  caught  through 
6 


82 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLOKENCE. 


«i 


tlie?^e  boles  tlie  samo  as  tliev  would  catch  a  netzik 
soal.  "lie  VOU112: 1  have  taken  from  the  mother  wlien 
nearly  ready  to  he  delivered.  They  are  of  a  dark, 
bluish  color. 

March  26. —  Olondv,  with  occasional  snow.  The 
thermometer  has  been  plus  33°.  All  winter  our  deck 
lias  been  covered  witli  about  one  foot  of  snow.  This 
covering  we  kept  on  the  deck  to  keep  the  frost  out  of 
the  Fhirnice,  To-day  we  uncovered,  and  the  water 
commenced  to  run  freelv  on  the  deck.  The  snow  on 
the  ice  has  softened,  the  water  has  ])ressed  its  wav 
tlu'ousrh  the  ice,  and  now  it  stands  about  six  inches 
deep,  witli  about  two  feet  of  snow  on  top,  making  it 
verv  bad  travellin"'. 

The  natives  yesterday  captured  twelve  seals.  Some 
of  them  remained  at  home  to-day  to  make  snow-shoes. 
Shu-mar-ker  continues  to  suffer  from  sn()w-l)lindness. 
Mr.  Sisson,  who,  I  believe,  is  the  best  meclumic  on 
l)oard,  is  re})airing  one  of  the  natives'  sleighs.  Mr. 
Sisson  is  our  cooper,  our  carpenter,  and,  indeed,  our 
evervthins:  in  the  way  of  mechanics. 

It  has  been  nearly  calm  all  dav,  l)nt  while  I  am 
writing  this  the  wind  has  suddenly  come  on  butt-end 
foremost  from  the  south-east.  The  Florence  trembled 
for  a  momeht  and  then  shook  herself  free  from  her 
winter  ju'ison,  tlu'owing  up  her  stern  some  six  inches, 
and  l)reaking  the  snowbaid^:  which  is  around  her  in 


I 


WINTER  IN  CUMliERLAND  GULF. 


every  direction.     The  vessel  is  now  very  much  b}'  the 
head,  and  has  a  bad  Hst  a-port. 

March  27. — ^ Cloudy;  wind  quite  heavy  from  the 
south-east;  occasional  snow.  Thermometer  plus  30°. 
Owing  to  bad  weather,  only  one  of  the  P]squimaux  is 
off  hunting  to-day.  Yesterday  they  got  six  seals.  The 
boats  which  we  put  on  the  ice  last  fall  were  com[)letely 
buried  in  snow.  I  had  them  dug  out  to-day.  I  also 
righted  the  schooner  by  removing  some  weiglit  from 
port  to  starl)oard. 

William  Albion's  hand  is  in  a  terrible  concUtion.  I 
am  afraid  he  will  lose  the  use  of  it. 

It  is  said  by  all  of  the  Esquhnaux  with  whom  I  have 
conversed  that  the  time  for  niditication  of  the  Arctic 
raven  is  February  and  March;  also,  that  the  eggs  of 
this  bird  will  freeze  and  crack  without  receiving  such 
injury  as  will  prevent  their  hatching. 
■     The  much -talked -of  animal,  the    wolverine,  ban 
been  described  to  me  as  being  of  a  light  gi'ay  color; 
smaller  than  a  wolf;  thick-sot,  witli  sharp,  long  chiws; 
very  powerful  and  ferocious.   The  Esquimaux  all  have 
a  wholesome  fear  of  coming  in  contact  with  this  ani- 
nial.     I  have  heard  the  same  description  from   Mr. 
Erkims,  in  Hudson's  Strait. 

I  have  been  trying  to  ascertain  from  Cliummv,who 
has  been  to  the  United  States  with  me  and  is  quite 
intelligent,  where  the  Esquimaux  tirst  procured  their 


(i 


m 


84 


THE  CKUTSE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


(logs.  The  tradition  is,  tliat  in  the  beginning  tlie 
primitive  Esquimanx  or  Tnnnits  felt  great  need  of 
some  heast  to  drag  tliem  to  and  fro  in  their  hunting 
-expeditions,  and  their  ankoots  importuned  tlie  Great 
Sjiirit  for  relief  Tliey  then  made  some  harnesses, 
and  placed  them  by  some  large  white  rocks  in  the  far 
north,  and  in  due  time  a  fine  team  of  dogs  made  their 
appearance  in  harness,  to  the  gratification  of  the  Es- 
quimaux. 

SShu-mar-ker,  who  ^Yas  the  only  one  off  hunting  yes- 
terday, found  only  two  youuiz;  seals,  and  they  were 
partly  eaten  by  foxes  and  ravens.  This  voracious  bird, 
the  Arctic  raven,  destroys  manv  youni>:  seals.  Thev 
even  attack  and  kill  the  young  deer  and  the  puppies 
of  the  Esquimaux  dogs. 

starch  28. — Snowino;,  with  ho'ht  wind  from  the  west. 
Thermometer  has  fallen  to  plus  20°,  and  still  falling. 
A  sleigh  arrived  from  Kater-nuna  last  night  with  one 
man  and  an  old  squaw.  All  the  fade  they  had  were 
some  deer-skins,  which  I  bought  for  a  little  bread. 

March  20. — Cloudv;  wind  blowinc:  strong  from  tbe 
south-east,  with  occasional  squalls.  This  long  contin- 
uation of  southerly  wind,  T  fear,  will  bring  the  pack- 
ice  of  Davis's  Strait  into  the  gulf.  The  Esquimaux 
and  ourselves  are  entirely  out  of  seal-meat,  the  weather 
being  so  bad  as  to  make  it  impossible  to  hunt  with  sue- 


I 


^ 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


85 


# 


cess.  Duly  one  young  seal  was  caught  yesterday.  They 
are  very  small  as  yet,  and  are  scarcely  fit  to  eat.  One 
young  seal  would  make  ahout  a  meal  for  one  luitive. 
I  liave  heard  nothing  from  Xep-e-ken  since  he  de- 
v>arted  on  the  23d  instant. 

March  30.— Light  wind  from  the  south-east.  There 
is  an  occasioival  spitting  of  snow,  and  the  weather  is 
quite  warm.  The  Esquimaux  got  only  one  young 
seal  yesterday.  A  sleigh  arrived  from  Kater-nuna  last 
evenino;  witli  several  natives.     They  had  no  trade. 

March  31.— Cloudy;  occasional  snow-S(iualls,  with 
a  strong  breeze  from  the  north-west;  (juite  cold.  Two 
of  the  six  Esquimaux  who  were  hunting  yesterday 
returned  hist  night,  bringing  one  seal.  The  other 
four  have  not  returned. 

Tliere  was  a  very  tine  display  of  the  aurora  last 
night  to  the  south  and  east  of  our  position. 

A  sleigh  arrived  last  night  from  Molly  Kater-nuna, 
bringing  me  a  pair  of  moccasins  and  mittens.  To  bring 
these  the  native  iiL  cliarge  of  tlie  sleigli  had  to  travel 
about  forty  miles  coming,  and,  of  coiu'se,  will  have  to 
o-o  the  same  distance  returning,      lie  left  this  niorn- 


in<r. 


The  late  warm  weather  has  nearly  destroyed  the 
eglows  or  snow  imts  of  the  natives,  and  it  has  left 
ntany  of  the  K^(iuimaux  with  very  bad  coughs.     One 


80 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


''•u 


of  tlie  sqiiJiws,  Iviick-oo-jng's  wife,  is  seriously  ill.  Pul- 
irioiiary  diseases  are  the  only  ones  indigenous  to  the 
climate,  or,  at  least,  they  are  the  cause  of  foiir-tifths  of 
all  the  deaths  that  occur  anion.g  the  Esquinuuix. 

I  called 'all  hands  this  niornincc  to  turn  the  hoats 
bottoni-up  on  the  ice.  I  was  surprised  at  the  response* 
two  men  and  one  lame  dog!  I  did  not  realize  that 
the  crew  were  so  few  in  mmiber  until  they  were  col- 
lected toc^ether.  We  liave  only  six  men  in  the  fore- 
castle.  Two  of  theni  are  laid  up, — one  with  a  frozen 
foot  and  the  other  with  a  sore  hand.  One  man  is  ap- 
pointed to  attend  the  two  disabled  ones;  another  is 
assisting  Mr.  Sherman  in  his  scientitic  observations. 
Tliat  takes  four  from  ship  duty,  leaving  only  two,  be- 
sides the  officers,  steward,  and  cabin  hoy.  We  man- 
aged, however,  to  turn  the  boats  by  calling  on  the 
squaws  who  were  otf  to  the  schooner  waiting  for  their 
mush.  «■■ 


April  1. — Cloudy,  with  quite  a  breeze  from  the  north 
and  west.  Five  natives  who  were  oft"  sealing  I'eturned 
last  night,  after  an  absence  ot*  thirty-six  liours.  They 
were  very  tired  and  hungry,  but  had  been  quite  fortu- 
nate in  their  hunt.  Kuck-oo-jug,  his  son,  and  son-in- 
law  caui!:ht  nineteen  vouns;  seals  and  one  old  one;  Al- 
o-kee  and  Shu-mar-ker,  seven  young  and  two  old  ones. 
The  old  ones  were  left  behind,  for  the  present,  on  ac- 
count of  the  bad  travellins:. 


» 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


87 


^ 


Two  sleighs  arrived  from  Kater-uuiui  last  evening. 
One  of  tiie'' natives,  Eva  l>y  name,  has  been  all  sum- 
mer and  winter  in  the  vicinity  of  Kennedy's  Lake, 
en<rao:ed  in  deer-hunting,  hut,  owing  to  deep  snow,  he 
coukF  not  bring  his  skins,  of  wliieli  he  says  he  has 
plentv,  down  to  the  ship. 

Two  Esquimaux  came  with  tlie  other  sleigli.     They 
are  apparently  in  search  of  a  runaway  wife,  or,  at  least, 
one  of  them' is;  but  the  fair  and  frail  one  will  not  ac- 
company her  lord  and  master  back  to  liis  castle  of 
snow  at  Kater-nuna. 

Kim-niock-kone  likewise  arrived  to-day.  He  went 
away  with  Nep-e-kcn,  but  he  and  Inue-mar-ket  sepa- 
rated from  bim,  so  that  each  would  have  a  better 
chance  in  the  hunt.  They  have  taken  quite  a  nundnn' 
of  seals,  and  come  down  to-day  for  their  allowance  ot 
provisions  and  tobacco. 

April  2.— Clear  and  sunshiny,  with  strong  breeze 
from  the  north-west.  We  were  employed  to-day  break- 
ino-  out  the  hold,  doing  some  little  carpentermg,  clear- 
in-  the  decks,  kc.  Two  Esquimaux  got  three  seals 
yesterday.  The  others,  having  rested  from  the  tatigue 
of  their  thirtv-six-hour  journey,  started  out  this  morn- 
iu-  for  another  hunt.  The  fair  damsel  mentioned 
ye'sterday  ile<l  rather  than  submit  to  the  wishes  ot  her 

^The  spring  tides  of  March  give  to  the  massive  ice 


88 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


t 


surrouiidiiiiiT  our  littlo  vessel  a  rise  and  fall  of  twenty- 
four  feet  and  some  inelies.  At  tlie  full  tides  the  eruncli- 
iniz:  Hud  iJ:rindinu:  of  the  ice,  the  dasliinji;  of  the  water, 
rlie  <i:ur2;liiig  of  the  eddies,  and  the  top[)lini>;  over  of 
tlie  nieelv-i)oised  ice  tahk's  alon<i^  the  shores  convev  a 
most  striking  impression  of  the  power  tliat  is  tluis 
hrouii'ht  int(^  action.  The  coldest  of  winters  fails  to 
freeze  the  water  in  certain  localities  liere.  The  most 
solid  winter  ice  is  open  here  and  there  in  pools  and 
patches  worn  by  currents  and  tides.  Similar  openings 
have  been  found  by  all  previous  explorers  in  the  Arc- 
tie  seas.  Such  were  the  o})en  spaces  found  by  J^arry 
in  Wellington  Channel ;  sucli  are  the  streandioles 
(stromholes)  of  the  Greenland  coast,  the  polynia  of 
tlie  Russians;  and  such  we  have  here  in  the  most  rig- 
orous of  winters.  The  seals  resort  to  tliese  holes  in 
oM'cat  numbers  throu2:h  the  winter,  and,  of  coui'se,  they 

*— .  O  7  7  7,/ 

are  favorite  places  for  the  Esquimaux  hunters,  whose 
chief  reliance  for  sustenance  throuii^h  the  loni>;  Arctic 
winters  is  the  netzik  seal. 

The  huntinor  of  the  seal  at  tlie  streamholes  is  not 
without  danger  to  the  hunter.  At  the  spring  tides  or 
full  tides  of  winter — or,  more  properly  speaking,  at  the 
full  and  chansre  of  the  moon,  and  for  several  davs 
before  and  after — the  tides  run  very  swift,  often  with 
such  velocity  as  to  l)reak  large  masses  of  ice  (though 
it  he  several  feet  in  thickness)  surrounding  the  holes, 
and,  lifting  them  up  edgewise,  cany  them  under  the 


U 


WINTER  IN  CUMBKULAND  GULF. 


89 


I 


inaiii  Hoes.  Maiiv  seals  arc  lost  at  tlicse  holes  after 
l)eini>:  sliot,  the  current  carrviiiii;  them  down  and  nnder 
the  iee  Ijefore  the  Imnter  can  s[)car  thcni  and  draw 
tlieni  out.  Several  of  our  Esquimaux  have  had  nar- 
row escapes  this  winter  while  huntin_i»;  at  these  holes. 
In  hreaking  out  to-day  I  found  that  we  have  nearly 
all  of  our  fresh  meats,  sou[)s,  peaches,  and  milk  left. 
We  have  used  scarcely  any  of  these  articles  as  yet. 
We  have  suhsisted  on  pork,  hard  hrcad,  meal,  rice, 
and  seals,  and  thus  far  not  one  man  has  heen  sick. 
AVe  use  no  liine  juice. 

.  We  have  not  been  housed  over,  hut  liave  left  our 
little  schooner  o[)en  and  free  to  the  Arctic  winds  and 
storms,  therebv  o-aininij:  a  free  circulation  of  good  and 
[)ure  air.  At  times  the  thermometer  has  indicated 
minus  50°,  but  we  were  very  comfortable,  although 
we  had  the  cabin  com[)anion-slide  partly  off  and  the 
doors  o[»en  some  of  the  time.  With  a  cheerful  mind, 
a  cleanly  person,  pure  air,  and,  of  course,  something  to 
eat,  one  can  defy  the  scurvy  for  years.  I  have  no  fear 
that  my  men  will  be  afflicted  with  it.  They  eat  seal- 
meat,  raw  or  cooked,  equal  to  the  Esquimaux.  Yes- 
terday they  were  all  on  deck  surrounding  a  seal  fresh- 
ly killed  and  skinned.  The  seal  so(^n  disappeared, 
leaviu"'  no  trace  excei)t  a  few  bones  and  the  bloody 
hands  and  faces  of  the  men. 


April  3.— Clear  and  sunshiny ;  strong  breeze  from 


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90 


THE  CRUISE  OF  TFIE  FLOREXCE. 


It 


the  west.  Thermometer  at  early  mornins:  mhiiis  5°. 
The  Esquimaux  were  all  oft'  hunting  this  morning. 
They  got  hut  few  seals  yesterday.  I  iind  upon  hreak- 
ins:  out  and  takini?  an  inventory  of  our  stores  that  we 
have  remaining  about  twenty-two  hundred  pounds  of 
bread,  thirteen  barrels  of  meat,  about  nine  barrels  of 
flour,  one  barrel  of  meal,  rice,  beans,  all  our  hams 
and  nearly  all  our  preserved  meats  and  vegetables, 
fruits,  &c.,  notwithstanding  the  fact  that  we  have  fed 
on  an  average  forty  persons  since  Octol)er.  We  liave 
only  four  casks  of  coal — probably  about  three  tons — 
remaining,  but  I  think,  with  the  wood  we  have,  it  will 
be  sufticient  to  see  us  through,  as  we  can  soon  do  with- 
out flres,  except  for  cooking  purposes. 

There  was  a  very  beautiful  display  of  the  aurora 
last  evenino^  from  9  p.  m.  until  after  midnischt.  It  ex- 
tended  from  the  north  in  an  arch  to  the  south-west, 
and  consisted  of  a  dark  segment,  of  a  hazy  or  slaty 
appearance,  surmounted  by  an  arch  of  light,  fi'om 
which  luminous  streamers  quivered  and  darted  toward 
the  zenith. 


April  4. — Clear  and  cool,  with  light  breeze  from  the 
north-west.  This  morning,  while  half  asleep,  or  in 
that  dreamy  state  between  sleeping  and  wakefulness, 
I  heard  a  quick,  sharp  tread  upon  deck.  The  cal)iu 
doors  were  thrown  open  violently,  and  an  intruder  de- 
scended, without  ceremony,  and  drew  aside  my  state- 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


91 


room  door,  wishing  me  good  morning.  Looking  up  I 
discovered  Mr.  Hall,  of  Kickerton  station,  standing  in 
the  doorway,  dressed  in  his  travelling  suit  of  deer- 
skins. The  steward  and  hoy  were  instantly  called, 
and  as  soon  as  Hall  could  divest  himself  o^'  his  cloth- 
ing breakfast  was  served.  He  had  started  from  the 
Kickertons  the  dav  before,  but  when  about  half-way 
to  Annanatook  he  met  with  bad  travelling — deep  snow 
and  water  on  the  ice;  so  that  he  was  compelled  to 
pass  the  night  upon  the  floe.  After  breakfast  Cap- 
tain Hall  ordered  his  native  driver  to  bring  down  a 
certain  rubber  water-bag,  capable  of  holding  three 
quarts  of  water.  The  native  shortly  appeared,  hold- 
ing the  bag  in  his  hands,  and,  with  a  most  woeful  ex- 
pression on  his  liice,  he  exclaimed :  "  As-se-a-wake  ! 
as-se-a-wake ! "  The  bag  was  collapsed.  I  s(wn  dis- 
covered that  it  was  not  water  they  had  lost,  but  some- 
thing stronger,  and,  from  its  scarcity,  considered  more 
precious. 

There  is  no  news  of  interest  from  below.  They  are 
preparing  for  the  spring  whaling.  A  fly  made  its  ap- 
pearance in  our  cabin  yesterday.  I  have  seen  nothing 
of  it  to-day.  It  probably  ventured  too  near  the  cabin 
door  and  was  singed  by  the  cold  air. 

Captain  Hall  tells  me  that  quite  a  number  of  the 
men  at  Kiantilic  are  down  with  the  scurvy.  Eg-e-low 
arrived  from  Nep-e-ken's  sealing  grounds,  bringing 
some  few  skins  and  a  little  meat.     He  reports  good 


92 


TUE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLOPENCE. 


w. 


'sealing  at  their  station.     He  returns  to-morrow  with 
provisions  and  tobacco. 

April  5. — ^Last  evening  the  wind  suddenly  hauled 
to  the  south-east,  and  before  niidniijht  it  was  blowing 
hard,  with  heavy  snow  falling.  Captain  Hall  had 
made  preparations  to  start  for  home,  but  this  morning 
he  concluded  to  postpone  his  departure  until  the  storm 
breaks.  Tlie  wind  havinsr  moderated  alons:  toward 
noon,  Eg-e-low  started  on  his  return.  The  snow  is  very 
deep  and,  of  course,  travelling  is  difficult.  One  little 
snowbird,  with  white  and  dark  plumage,  was  seen 
to-day.  The  Florence  has  on  her  bridal  robes  again 
to-day.  She  is  covered  with  frost  from  deck  to  truck, 
and  from  a  little  distance  presents  a  most  beautiful 
appearance.  She  is  often  thus.  I  attribute  it  to  the 
great  quantity  of  water  on  the  ice,  which  keeps  the 
snow  continually  saturated  ;ind  the  air  full  of  vapor, 
which  settles  and  condenses  on  our  risririnff,  ffivino:  the 
vessel  a  very  picturesque  appearance. 

It  is  quite  warm.  The  thermometer  showed  plus 
24°  at  noon. 


April  G. — Cloudy,  but  warm  and  pleasant.  Captain 
Hall  left  this  morning  at  4  o'clock.  All  hands  were 
employed  at  cutting  fresh-water  ice.  The  Esquimaux 
were — all  but  three — off  seal injjc  aijain.  The  three  at 
home  are  laid  up  with  sore  eyes.     The  squaws  are  at 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


98 


• 


work  on  skin-clothing,  bnt  they  work  very  sk)w.  The 
only  thing  the  P]sqnirnanx  are  pnnetiuil  in  is  their 
meals.  Although  they  have  no  clocks,  they  never 
rniss  the  time ;  and  when  breakfast  or  dinner  is  ready 
they  are  there  promptly  for  it. 

As  soon  as  they  are  through  with  the  spring  sealiug, 
I  must  either  send  or  go  myself  to  the  Kickerton  Isl- 
ands. I  wish  to  get  a  large  sleigh  —  one  capable  of 
carrying  a  whale-boat  or  large  casks.  I  must  get 
casks  down  to  the  whale  which  we  captured  last  fall 
and  try  and  save  some  blubber  from  the  body;  also, 
if  possible,  get  the  jaw-l)ones  for  the  north  polar  expe- 
dition. The  whale  is  at  pi'esent  buried  in  the  shore 
ice.  It  will  be  a  difhcult  and  tedious  task  to  cut  him 
out,  but  I  think  we  will  make  the  attempt. 

It  is  astonishing  to  see  how  iiesliy  the  most  of  the 
crew  have  grown  since  leaving  home.  Certairdy  the 
Arctic  regions  nuist  agree  with  them.  My  cal)in  boy — 
I  am  almost  afraid  to  call  him  *'boy"  now— has  in- 
creased in  bulk  from  one  hundred  and  sixteen  to  one 
hundred  and  sixty  pounds;  and  Mr.  Burrows,  the  sec- 
ond officer,  can  scarcely  see  out  of  his  eyes  for  fat ; 
while  some  of  the  others  are  not  far  behind  him. 

The  temperature  rose  this  afternoon  to  plus  32^, 
again  threatening  the  Esquimaux'  eglovvs  with  destruc- 
tion. This  morning  it  was  daylight  at  8  o'clock.  It 
gets  dark  about  9  p.  m.  I  am  glad  that  the  dark  sea- 
son has  passed,  for  our  kerosene  is  getting  low.     The 


94 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


crew  and  tlie  sqnaws  are  on  the  ice  tins  evening  play- 
ing ball.  Even  the  little  children  join  in  t^  e  game. 
All  ap[)ear  to  be  happy  and  free  from  care.  Tlie  in- 
valids are  improving  rapidly,  nnder  the  combined  in- 
fluence of  warm  weather  and  seal-meat.  • 


m 

m 

m 
m 

m 


8     'I 

I 


rn 


rp 


April  7. — Broken  clouds;  warm  and  pleasant ;  wind 
south-east.  It  is  Sunday,  and,  of  course,  we  do  nothing 
to-day,  or,  at  least,  only  what  is  absolutely  necessary. 
The  Esquimaux,  however,  do  not  cease  their  hunting. 
They  have  no  Sunday ;  therefore  no  day  of  v/orship. 
One  of  the  squaws  brought  me  a  very  line  deer-skin 
jacket  this  morning.  I  have  consideral)le  ch^thing 
made  up,  but  not  as  nmch  as  I  hope  to  gi}\.  My  cabin 
boy  and  one  of  the  foremast  hands  ventured  out 
sealing  this  morning.  They  returned  this  evening 
thoroughly  "  beat  out."     Of  course  they  had  no  seals. 


f 


April  8. — It  is  a  beautiful  morning — one  of  the  soft, 
balmy,  sunshiny  da^^s  that  would  be  enjoyal)le  at  home 
and  is  delightful  here.  The  snow  is  disappearing 
very  fast.  The  snow  embankment  around  the  vessel, 
which  was  'several  feet  thick,  has  almost  disappeared. 
The  men  begin  to  straighten  up,  and  the  kinks  are 
fairly  gone  from  some  of  their  backs.  It  is  rennxrk- 
ably  mild  for  this  time  of  the  year.  We  have  no  lire ; 
the  cabin  doois  are  open,  and  it  is  much  pleasanter  on 
deck  than  below.     This  is  allowance  dav.     Earlv  this 


I 


If 


WINTER  IN  CUiMBEllLANI)  (iULF. 


05 


nionnii£f  the  squiiws  came  ott'  from  tho  shoi'o,  iiceoni- 
paiiied  by  the  children  and  dog^s.  Several  had  young 
seals,  just  skinned,  in  their  hands; — these,  I  suppose, 
to  better  their  clianees  for  some  warm  coliee.  The 
luinters  yesterday  got  quite  a  num])er  of  young  seals. 
To-day  thcvare  laid  ui)  with  sore  eves.  We  were  em- 
ployed  most  of  the  day  in  cleaning  up  the  Florence 
and  in  nuiking  needed  repairs.  The  thei  ;iu)meter 
showed  plus  2U°  early  this  morning. 


«» 


April  0. — Wind  blowing  strong  from  the  north- 
west. Last  nijjht  the  air  was  thick  with  liii^ht  snow. 
The  two  natives  who  went  sealiuiJ^  vesterdav  remained 
otf  all  nicrht.  Thev  returned  this  morninoc  with  four- 
teen  seals.  I  have  Just  sent  one  of  the  men  to  the 
shore  for  two  vounsc  seals  for  breakfast.  We  consume 
from  four  to  live  daily.  The  meat  is  very  sweet  and 
is  as  tender  as  a  soriui^  chicken.  It  is  not  onlv  verv 
palatable,  but  it  keei>s  the  crew  in  gO(jd  healtli. 

Wlule  it  is  fresh  in  mv  memorv,  I  think  I  had  bet- 
ter  write,  not  what  I  know,  l»ut  what  I  hear,  of  Lake 
Kennedy.  This  lake  is  supposed  to  be  situated  in  lat- 
itude ()(i°  north  and  longitude  78°  west.  It  is  so  placed 
on  the  chai'ts,  but  by  whose  authoritv  I  caimot  sav,  as 
I  have  neither  read  nor  heard  of  anv  white  man  hav- 
ing  visited  it  until  Captain  John  Ivoach  did  so  in  the 
year  1870.  Jle  went  there  deer-hunting,  in  company 
with  some  Esquimaux,  in  the  s[>ring  of  that  year,    lie 


96 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


mm 


.4 


hi 


:3 
I 


yf 


went  in  the  month  of  April,  before  the  land  had  thrown 
oil*  its  winter  coat,  and  hefot'e  the  snn  had  thawed  the 
lake  ice.  I  had  often  heard  the  Esqniniaux  speak  of 
this  great  lake;  of  its  abundance  offish;  of  the  great 
quantity  of  game  which  resorts  there;  of  their  not  be- 
ing al)le  to  see  land  from  one  shore  toward  the  other; 
of  the  land,  being  entirely  level, — in  fact,  a  vast  plain 
or  prairie,  stoneless  and  treeless,  but  covered  in  sum- 
mer with  tall  grass,  in  which  the  natives  would  secrete 
themselves  and  await  the  a[)i)roach  of  their  unsus- 
pecting i»rey,  the  reindeer.  While  thus  secreted  in 
the  grass,  tlie  Esquimaux  have  shot  down  as  many  as 
twenty  or  thirtv  *deer  before  the  herd  took  alarm  and 
tied.  I  have  been  more  particular  in  my  inquiries 
this  time  than  heretofore  concerning  this  lake,  as  I 
wished  to  get  all  the  information  p()ssil)le  about  it. 
With  this  in  view,  I  have  heard  Mr.  Roach's  stoiy, 
althoiiirh  he  was  there  at  a  time  when  evervthin«:  Was 
locked  fast  bv  the  frost.  He  started  with  two  slei<jrhs, 
nianned  by  Esquimaux.  He  was  four  days  on  the 
way  between  Kickerton  and  Kennedy  Lake.  He  saw 
thousands  of  reindeer;  went  up  a  deep  fiord  just  a 
short  distance  from  Kater-nuna,  On  arriving  at  the 
head  of  the  fiord  he  crossed  a  low,  narrow  neck  of 
land,  about  a  hundred  yards  in  width,  then  entered  on 
the  lake  ice ;  followed  the  lake  about  fifteen  miles  or 
more;  came  to  another  narrow  neck  of  land,  about 
two  hundred  vards  in  breadth,  which  he  crossed  and 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  (II  LF. 


U7 


entered  on  another  lake;  followed  this  lake  about 
thirty  miles,  then  came  to  another  narrow  neck  of  land, 
which  he  also  crossed  and  entered  on  Kennedy  Luke. 
After  leaving  the  first  lake  he  lost  sight  of  the  moun- 
tains to  the  eastward,  and  to  the  westward  neither  hill 
nor  mound  broke  the  view  as  tar  as  he  c^ould  see.  It  was 
a  vast  snow-white  and  snow-covered  prairie,  Ken- 
nedy Lake  and  everything  surrounding  it  were  locked 
in  ice.  He  discovered  that  tlie  lake  was  dotted  with 
hundreds  of  small  islands,  many  of  them  not  larger 
than  an  ordinary  parlor  floor.  The  Esquimaux  visit 
this  lake  every  spring  for  the  purpose  of  hunting  the 
reindeer,  of  which  they  get  great  nundjers.  Some  re- 
main at  or  near  the  lake  all  winter,  as  did  Eva,  who 
was  here  a  few  days  ago.  They  all  have  one  story  t() 
tell  c'  the  vastness  of  this  lake;  of  the  abundance  of 
game;  of  the  large  salmon  and  many  other  species  of 
fish  which  inhabit  its  waters;  and  of  the  many  seals 
of  the  netzik  species  which  are  found  there.  Among 
the  game  described  I  can  make  out  three  kinds  of 
oeese,  manv  ducks,  and  other  birds  without  number. 
The  squaws  destroy  the  young  goslings  as  food  for  the 
doo-s.  The  land  is  entirely  free  from  stones.  Its  soil 
is  dark  and  abounds  with  fossils.  One  native  tells  me 
that  last  summer  he  was  at  the  lake's  western  extrem- 
ity; that,  looking  to  the  westward,  he  could  see  no 
land—nothing  but  water;  and  he  thought  he. saw  a 
ship  there.     This  lake  empties  into  Fox  Channel,  ov 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


I  ! 


what  is  called  Dorchester  Bay,  all  still  unexplored. 
The  Ksquiniaiix  carry  their  large  and  heavy  hoats 
i'rom  here  to  this  lake.  Thev  have  also  carried  the 
large  and  clumsy  Scotch  boats  there. 

Considered  from  a  scientific  point  of  view,  these 
lakes — I  say  "  lakes,"  because  there  are  three — open 
a  vast  field  to  the  explorer.  In  a  pecuniary  point  of 
view,  I  believe  it  would  pay  to  work  it.  There  are 
fish,  seal,  birds,  and  deer.  Hundreds  upon  hundreds 
of  thousands  of  pounds  of  deer-meat,  fish,  eggs,  feath- 
ers, and  down  could  be  preserved.  Then  there  are 
oil  from  the  seals,  skin  from  the  seals  and  deer,  thou- 
sands of  geese  and  ducks.  All  could  be  put  up  in  cans 
there — at  least  those  articles  suitable  for  preservation 
in  this  way — and  easily  sent  to  salt  water,  and  thence 
home  to  the  markets.  Where  is  the  Yankee  who  will 
undertake  this  enterprise  ?  I  believe  there  is  a  mine 
of  wealth  there.  If  I  could  spare  time  I  would  visit 
this  lake — or,  rather,  these  lakes — now.  To  explore 
them,  and  others  probably  adjacent,  would  require  a 
whole  sunmier.  The  natural  resources  of  the  section 
can  only  be  ascertained  by  systematic  and  careful 
exploration. 


April  10. — Yesterday  afternoon  and  last  night  the 
north-west  wind  blew  very  strong,  with  heavy  snow- 
drift. '  The  thermometer  fell  from  plus  19°  to  minus 
5°.     This  morning  the  weather  is  better,  but  still  a 


'• 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  OULF. 


00 


good  breeze  prevails,  and  it  is  quite  cold.  An  aurora 
was  seen  last  night  about  midnight.  Some  of  the 
Esquimaux  are  hiid  up  with  ophthalmia.  Since  tlie 
squaws  received  their  allowance,  on  Mondav,  I  have 
not  seen  one  at  the  schooner;  but  I  fear  we  will  have 
a  storm  of  them  l-ere  to-dav.  Thev  are  fond  of  hot 
coffee  and  mush,  and  are  as  vain  and  proud  of  a  calico 
skirt  as  their  favored  sisters  of  a  more  genial  clime 
would  be  of  silks  and  satins.  ' 


April  11. — Clear  and  tine  weather.  Earlv  this  morn- 
ing  the  thermometer  indicated  2°.  The  Esquimaux, 
having  partly  recovered  fr^^m  snow-blindness,  are  off 
sealing.  Mr.  Kundein  has  gone  with  them  to  try  his 
luck.  The  native  Eva  and  his  wife  arrived  last  nioht 
from  (Gloucester  Island,  l)ringing  me  tive  young  seals 
and  a  promise  of  more  as  soon  as  he  gets  them.  The 
late  gale  and  low  temperature  have  improved  the  trav- 
elling somewhat.  The  native  who  was  in  pursuit  of  his 
runaway  wife,  (Neleanger,)  and  who  has  been  loitering 
around  here  in  hope,  I  suppose,  tliat  she  would  return 
to  his  dirty,  dusky,  and  greasy  end)race,  de[)arted  to- 
day in  despair.  The  wife  has  tied  to  her  uncio  for 
protection.  Although  the  thermometer  stands  in  the 
middle  of  the  day  at  or  in  the  vicinity  of  zero,  the  side 
of  the  vessel  that  receives  the  sun's  ravs  will  almost 
burn  the  hand.  The  Esquimaux,  when  in  pursuit  of 
seals  this  time  of  the  year,  are  careful,  on  killing  one. 


100 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCli 


'H 

J! 


to  cover  it  well  with  ^low  before  they  go  in  pursuit 
of  more.  Should  tliev  ueiicleet  to  do  this,  and  leuve 
the  seal  uncovered  for  a  sliort  time,  the  hair  on  the 
side  exposed  to  the  sun's  rays  will  come  oif  as  easily 
as  the  hair  of  a  scalded  hoi?.  Tlie  effect  of  the  sun 
on  the  liuman  skin  is  to  turn  it  black  or  verv  dark, 
very  often  removing  the  cuticle  or  scarfskin,  ur.less 
the  face  be  well  protected  with  a  shade. 

We  are  emi:)loyed  to-day  at  getting  out  some  pro- 
vision from  the  hold  for  use.  Mr.  Sisson  is  putting 
Itone  shoeing  on  the  small  boat.  We  shoe  the  keels 
of  our  boats  with  bone  from  the  Jaws  of  the  whale,  so 
as  to  make  tliem  easv  to  haul  over  the  ice.  Very  soon, 
now,  we  will  have  the  long  Arctic  day, —  continual 
daylight;  no  night,  no  stars.  One  will  scarcely  know 
wlien  to  go  to  rest,  but  I  have  a  solution  for  that  prob- 
lem— if,  indeed,  it  should  prove  one:  I  shall  go  to  bed 
when  I  need  rest.  This  is  a  land  of  extremes, — either 
all  dark  or  all  light;  all  cold  or  all  warm  ;  very  bad 
or  verv  i?ood  weather. 

I  have  just  had  live  young  seals,  skinned  and  ready 
to  cook,  brought  aboard.  They  will  do  for  two  meals 
for  all  hands.  Bv  this  it  will  be  seen  that  the  white 
man  has  but  little  to  boast  of,  in  the  wav  of  eatincr 
meat,  over  his  brother  Esquimiiux.  I  think,  of  the  two, 
the  white  man  is  the  most  voracious. 


April  12.— Cloudy  and  warm.    Thermometer  regis- 


I 


WINTER  IN  CUMUFRLAND  (JILF. 


101 


tercd  plus  32^  this  morning.  Wo  hiivo  imothor  wurni 
Npell  u[K)n  us.  It  is  very  evident  tluit  below  us  tlio 
\vin(ls  are  to  the  southward. 

I  get  the  information  I'rom  Eva,  who  was  liere  yes- 
terday, that  Ca})t.  Murray's  steamer  Windward,  which 
wintered  at  ^'iantilic  or  at  llari-ison's  J*oint,  a  eape 
which  extends  some  five  miles  out  i'rom  the  nuiin  har- 
l)or,  is  now  at  New  Xorvion,a  cape  some  twenty  miles 
to  the  north  of  Niantilic.  Tl)e  crews  of  the  four  ships 
which  wintered  at  this  expofc-d  point  for  the  purpose 
of  trettins:  out  earlv  in  t^^o  si)rini;,  sliould  the  water 
extend  up  the  gulf  at  tuat  time,  connnenced  to  saw 
out  in  the  warm  weatlKU'  wlich  we  liad  the  latter  part 
of  March,  the  water  being  liien  only  about  one  hun- 
dred vards  from. the  vessels.  I  understand  that  ('a[)- 
tain   Murrav,  on  i?ettin<]r  his  vessel  out  of  her  winkT 

»'    '  CD  Cj 

quarters,  discovered  that  the  long  continuation  of 
southerly  winds  had  brought  the  Davis  Strait  pack-ice 
into  the  gulf,  and,  to  prevent  his  ship  from  being  clos- 
ed in  1)V  it,  he  steamed  up  to  the  head  of  tiie  water 
which  is  at  Xew  Xorvion.  Should  the  south  winds 
continue,  even  this  will  not  save  him  from  being  in- 
closed in  the  pack;  for  it  will  surely  come  up,  unless 
there  is  a  long  spell  of  north-west  wind.  I  regret  ^'ery 
mucli  to  hear  that  the  Davis  Strait  pack-ice  found  its 
way  into  the  gulf,  as,  once  getting  fairly  lodged  there, 
it  is  lialjle  to  rer..ain  all  summer,  and  may  make  it 


102 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


very  difiicnlt  for  me  to  get  out  in  time  to  join  the 
polar  expedition. 

The  Esquimaux  captured  a  few  seals  yesterday/ 
Mr.  Kumlein  did  not  get  any.  I  do  not  think  he  will 
go  immediately  on  another  seal-hunt  with  the  Esqui- 
maux. Thev  cover  too  much  ground  in  a  dav  for  an 
ordinary  traveller  to  compass.  They  are  always  trav- 
elling, either  in  the  mountains  deer-hunting,  or  over 
the  snow-clad  floes  in  winter  hunting  the  seal  or  polar 
bear.  They  are  light,  strong,  and  muscular,  and  are 
therefore  better  fitted  to  travel  the  snow  and  ice  tields 
than  their  more  unwieldy  white  brethren.  They  have, 
also,  another  advantas^e.  When  tired  or  fatisrued  thev 
will  lie  down  on  the  ice  and  go  to  sleep;  when  hungry 
they  will  open  a  seal,  if  they  have  captured  one,  drink 
a  portion  of  its  blood,  and  eat  as  much  of  the  meat  or 
entrails  as  they  want;  and  thus  their  strength  is  re- 
stored. I  do  not  say  that  a  white  man  could  not  get 
along  just  as  well  if  accustomed  to  such  a  life;  but  he 
is  not  accustomed,  and,  so  far  as  I  am  concerned,  I  do 
not  want  to  be. 

All  hands,  except  the  scientists,  were  engaged  to- 
day breaking  out  the  hold  of  the  Florence  and  getting 
things  to  rights  generally.  Nep-e-ken  arrived  this 
evening,  bringing  some  seal-meat  and  one  young  seal. 
He  has  taken  quite  a  number,  but  did  not  bring  them 
down.  lie  brought  his  little  boy  As-see-wer,  who  is 
named  "Boatswain"  by  the  sailors,  and  who  is  very 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


103 


fond  of  pork.  It  has  been  very  warm  to-day,  the  ther- 
mometer going  np  as  high  as  phis  34°.  Nep-e-ken 
tells  me  that  his  bov  As-see-wer,  who  cannot  be  more 
than  five  years  of  age,  has  caught  six  young  seals  thi^ 
spring,  and  that  he  successfully  hunted  them  last  spring 
also.  I  know  that  he  can  chew  and  smoke  equal  to 
an  old  tar.  Thev  commence  vouna:  in  this  countrv. 
I  have  seen  some  of  the  little  girls,  not  oMer  than 
this  boy,  chewing  and  smoking  tobacco.  Such  thing^; 
show  the- kind  of  missionary  work  that  has  been  done 
among  these  people. 


April  13. — Cloudy;  light,  variable  winds,  with  high 
barometer.  Thermometer  plus  9°.  Nep-e-ken  left 
earlv  this  mornins:  for  his  sealins:  station.  Two  sleiijhs 
arrived  from  Kickerton  Island  late  last  evening.  The 
party  consisted  of  five  persons,  men  and  squaws.  The 
Esquimaux  were  not  very  successful  in  yesterday's 
hunting.  Nearly  all  of  them  are  laid  up  to-day  with 
snow-blindness.  The  natives  who  arrived  last  niijht 
bring  no  news  of  interest,  except  that  there  is  a  scar- 
city of  seals  below  and  that  the  Esquimaux  are  scat- 
tering to  ditferent  parts  of  the  gulf  in  search  of  them. 
Everything  is  going  on  in  a  dreary,  monotonous  uni- 
formity; no  hair-breadth  escapes;  no  comljats  with  the 
polar  l)ear.  The  weather  is  at  t'mes  remarkably  fine. 
I  do  not  think  that  any  climate  in  the  world  is  supe- 
rior to  that  of  the  Arctic  resfions  in  the  months  of 


104 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


April,  May,  and  June.     This  evening  all  Nature  lies 
liere  in  quiet  repose,  like  Innocence  asleep. 


iiii| 


M 


April  14. — It  is  really  a  beautiful  day.  The  sun  has 
a  peculiar  silvery  whiteness,  like  a  burnished  silver 
mirror.  Not  a  cloud  is  to  be  seen  in  the  heavens. 
According  to  meteorological  theory  and  the  laws  ol* 
storms,  we  have  several  days  been  at  the  outer  limit 
of  a  great  storm.  The  light,  variable  winds,  the  very 
tine  weather,  and  the  extra-high  barometer  all  signify 
this. 

Koach's  Esquimaux  left  this  morning,  "homeward 
bound."  IIow  pleasant  the  sound  of  those  words! 
But  how  much  moi*.  pleasant  will  it  be  to  realize  that 
we  are  homeward  bound  in  realitv ! 

Many  of  the  Esquimaux  who  have  recovered  from 
their  eye-sickness  have  gone  sealing  to-da}'.  Some  of 
the  men  whose  eyes  are  not  affected  by  the  brightness 
of  the  sun  reflected  from  the  snow-covered  mountains 
and  ice,  are  off  for  a  quiet  stroll  over  the  iloe  or  on 
the  land.  Kim- mock -kone  arrived  this  afternoon 
from  his  and  Inue-mar-ket's  sealins:  stntion.  He  came 
on  foot,  and  thinks  of  returning  to-morrow.  He  in- 
forms me  tliat  they  have  quite  a  number  of  young 
seals,  but  I  cannot  ascertain  the  number,  as  few  of  the 
Esquimaux  can  count  beyond  six.  Nep-e-ken  man- 
aged to  tell  me,  when  he  was  here,  that  he  had  taken 
as  many  as  twelve  in  a  day.    He  conveyed  the  nunibei* 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


105 


by  holding  np  his  fingers.  I  hope  to  get  a  number  of 
these  voun<^  seiikskins,  as  thev  make  excellent  elothinoc ; 
but  it  takes  so  many  to  supply  them  and  their  fainilies 
that  I  do  not  know  how  I  shall  succeed.  . 


April  15. — Clear  and  cold;  light  breeze  from  the 
north-west.  Barometer  still  vervhin'h;  thermometer 
minus  3°  last  ni^'ht.  Since  removing:  the  embank- 
ment  from  around  the  vessel  we  find  it  quite  cold, 
particularly  at  night,  when  there  is  a  breeze  from  the 
north  or  west.  It  was  so  wasted  l)v  the  recent  warm 
weather  that  I  thouiJfht  it  best  to  have  it  and  the  dirt 
which  necessarily  accumulated  removed.  Since  the 
removal  of  the  embankment,  if  ilie  temperature  falls 
to  zero  and  a  light  breeze  prevjiils.  it  will  freeze  quite 
hard  in  the  cal)in  at  niglit  when  the  fires  are  out.  That 
is  the  case  about  every  ni^flit  now,  as  we  cannot  afibrd 
to  be  too  free  with  our  fuel,  which  is  getting  low. 

There  was  an  aurora  last  nio-ht  about  midnii!;ht.  I 
did  not  see  it,  but  Mr.  Sherman  considered  it  verv  in- 
teresting,  iVom  the  fact  of  its  hanging  over  and  appa- 
rently emeroiiiorfrom  some  \vater  holes,  which  are  keitt 
open  by  the  current,  to  the  eastward  of  the  Florence. 
The  vessel  lies  with  her  head  to  the  north  and  west, 
so  as  to  take  the  wmter  storms  head  and  stern,  as  thev 
ijenerallv  i)revail  from  the  north-west  and  south-east. 
By  dropping  the  squaresails  we  make  quite  a  shelter, 
when  the  wind  is  from  tlie  western  quarter,  for  those 


): 


106 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


•  ,- 


I        ! 


who  are  at  work  on  deck.  Under  this  shelter  Mr.  Sis- 
son  is  now  at  work  putting  a  bone  shoeing  on  the  keel 
of  tlie  small  boat,  as  before  mentioned.  Mr.  Burrows 
is  replenishing  our  supply  of  fresh-water  ice  from  the 
ponds  on  the  land.  We  do  not  use  snow  water.  I 
consider  it  injurious  to  health. 

Not  a  cloud  to  be  seen  ajjain  to-dav.  The  heavens 
have  a  pale,  bluish  color,  and  the  sun  is  very  bright 
and  white.  Eva  has  just  arrived  from  the  Gloucester 
Islands.  He  brought  me  a  live  seal,  but  the  poor  lit- 
tle fellow  was  badly  bitten  by  one  of  the  dogs  when 
he  was  captured.  It  is  allowance  day  again,  and  we 
have  been  harassed  all  day  l)y  the  squaws,  clamoring 
for  their  weeklj'  provender. 

Tlie  Esquimaux  have  a  peculiar  way  of  designat- 
inc:  or  noting  distances.  For  instance,  "con-e-took" 
means  but  a  short  distance, — it  mav  be  one  hundred 
yards  or  ten  miles;  "conino'-twadle"  means  such  a 
distance  that  one  does  not  want  to  undertake  the  jour- 
ney without  steam  and  good  weather;  "wes-er-pook" 
means  such  a  distance  that  one  was  never  known  to  get 
to  his  journey's  end;  "  wes-er-tvvadle"  means  such  a 
distance  that  it  is  utterly  impossible  for  a  man  to  get 
there  in  his  short  span  of  life. 

April  16. — Fine  weather.  Barometer  still  high; 
thermometer  last  night  minus  3°.  Beautiful  cirro- 
stratus  clouds  to-day.     The  cirro-stratus  is  markedly 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


107 


a  precursor  of  storms,  and  from  its  greater  or  less 
abundance  and  permanence  it  gives  some  indication 
of  the  time  when  tlie  storm  may  he  expected.  A  very 
brilliant  aurora  was  visible  last  nic^ht,  extendinij:  IVom 
the  north-east  to  the  soutli-west. 

My  little  seal  is  dead.  It  died  last  night  about  mid- 
night. The  poor  little  thing  was  wounded  more  dan- 
gerously than  I  thought  at  tii'st.  It  moaned  like  a  child 
in  pain,  and  would  look  up,  with  its  great  round  black 
eyes,  as  if  imploring  reliof  from  its  sufferings.  I  re- 
ceived another  live  one  to-dav,  however.  lie  is  a 
white-coat,  or  this  spring's  seal,  prol)al)ly  about  til'teen 
davs  old.  He  is  as  usrlv  and  as  savas^c  as  a  vounn-  do^r, 
and  will  bite  at  any  and  everv  thini;;  within  his  reach. 
He  is  now  on  deck  sunning  himself. 

Traded  for  seven  vounsj  seals  to-dav,  brousrht  bv  u 
native  from  Mollv  Kater-nuna.  Thev  are  just  as  thev 
were  when  taken*,  so  I  have  the  skins  as  well  as  the 
meat.  Mr.  Kumlein  is  making  a  drawing  of  the  young 
seal  that  died.  Nearly  all  the  Esquimaux  were  off 
huntinsr  yesterdav.  Last  nis^ht  they  brought  back 
quite  a  number  of  young  seals.  As  I  have  no  goggles 
to  give  them,  they  fall  back  on  their  primitive  spec- 
tacles. They  are  made  of  wood,  fitted  to  the  shape  of 
the  nose,  or  at  least  that  part  of  the  face  where  the 
spectacles  will  l)ear.  There  are  two  slits  for  the  eyes, 
with  a  little  shelf  projecting  over  them.  They  are  se- 
cured to  the  head  by  a  seal  thong.     This  contrivance 


108 


THE  CRUISE  01  THE  FLORENCE. 


I  : 


I! 


I 


"         ^'11 


protects  tLe  eyes  somewhat,  but  docs  not  always  save 
tlieiii  from  siiow-l)lii.idnes3. 

April  17. — Clear  weather.  Not  n  cloud  to  be  seen. 
The  wind  is  ])l()wing  quite  strong,  with  a  high  barom- 
eter and  wind  north-west.  Tliere  is  so  much  wind 
that  the  Esquimaux  did  not  go  seahng  to-day.  The 
moon  fulled  vesterdav,  with  the  wind  north-west,  where 
I  suppose  it  will  remain  the  greater  part  of  this  moon. 
A  fine  aurrra  appeared  last  night,  its  arch  extending  to 
and  across  the  moon's  disk,  although  the  moon  was  very 
bright  at  that  time.  My  second  seal  died  last  night, 
from  wliat  cause  I  know  not;  it* appeared  strong  and 
well.  Excepting  two  of  the  crt'w  —  the  one  with  the 
sore  hand  and  Lee  with  his  frozen  foot — we  have  not 
had  a  case  of  sickness  since  leavins;  home. 


!'  i 


April  18. — We  are  getting  our  boats  from  shore  to- 
day. It  is  my  intention  to  have  them  fitted  for  whaling, 
so  that  at  the  time  we  are  released  from  winter  quar- 
ters— whicli  I  hope  and  expect  will  be  as  soon  as  the 
15th  of  July — we  will  be  read}'  to  take  a  whale,  should 
we  be  fortunate  enouc^h  to  see  one.  If  the  ice  does  not 
form  a  most  serious  obstruction,  I  hope  to  arrive  on 
the  coast  of  Greenland  by  the  3d  or  Gth  of  August. 
I  am  verv  anxious  to  sret  one  more  whale  before  we 
leave. 

It  is  a  very  fine,  warm  day,  with  light,  variable 


WINTER  IX  CUMBERLAND  (lULF. 


100 


m 


winds.  The  Es([iilnKiux  are  oil  on  the  hunt  t(V(hiy. 
Every  morning  I  dispiitch  the  eahin  hoy,  Charles  Ful- 
ler, (who,  a  Hglit  delicate  youth  eiglit  months  ago,  now 
weighs,  I  should  think,  170  pounds,)  to  the  shore  for 
our  dailv  allowance  of  meat.  He  generally  hrings 
four,  and  sometimes  five  seals.  These  are  for  one 
day's  feeding.  Tie  has  a  small  hand  slei<j:h  to  hring 
them  on,  and  every  morning  regularly  this  poor,  dear 
little  170-pounder  can  he  seeh  wending  his  way  to  the 
shore  for  seal-meat,  lie  is  young,  only  eigliteen,  and 
is  as  round-taced  as  the  full  moon ;  therefore  a  great 
favorite  with  the  dusky  damsels,  and  will  get  seal- 
meat  where  others  might  fail.  .' 


April  19. — Fhie  weather.  Last  night  we  had  a  liglit 
fall  of  snow.  A  sleigh  arrived  this  morning  from 
Kater-nuna.  It  brought  no  trade,  except  two  small 
seal-skins.  The  Escpnmaux  are  getting  hut  few  skins 
now.  The  young  seals  are  getting  old  enough  to  take 
to  the  water,  and  many,  tlierefore,  escape.  Pumped 
the  bilge-water  out  of  the  schooner  to-day.  In  the 
lower  part  of  the  hold  the  water  did  not  freeze  through 
the  winter.  Had  we  not  had  a  heavy  l)ank  of  snow- 
around  the  vessel — which,  of  course,  excluded  the  cold 
air  and  prevented  the  warmth  generated  by  the  tires 
from  escaping — such  would  notliave  been  the  case. 

The  thermomete"  went  up  to  [)lus  32"  yesterday,  but 
soon  fell  again.     This  morning  it  is  plus  W^.     All 


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,    ij. 

110 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


hands  employed  at  general  ship  duty.  Mr.  Sisson  is 
coopering  barrels  and  casks.  Mr.  Burrows  and  men 
are  coiling  whale-lines  and  preparing  whale-gear.  T 
was  somewhat  surprised  at  the  appearance  of  Two- 
poung  this  morning.  This  is  the  squaw  who  recently 
ran  away  from  her  husband.  She  is  here  again,  and 
I  scarcely  know  what  to  do  with  her,  unless  I  set  her 
to  work  making  clothing;  that  will  help  pay  for  her 
board.  Kiiii-mock-kone  arrived  to-dav,  brinofins:  some 
seal-meat.  He  returns  to-morrow  with  a  re''^force- 
ment  of  dogs,  so  as  to  bring  the  natives  back  .s  the 
young  sealing  is  about  over.  Very  soon  I  may  expect 
my  large  family  all  collected  around  the  schooner. 

Oc-a-took  and  wife  left  for  Molly  Kater-nuna  this 
afternoon,  to  be  gone  some  days,  on  a  visit  to  his 
mother.  This  is  a  young,  strong,  and  intelligent  Es- 
quimaux. I  wish  sincerely  that  I  could  persuade  him 
to  accompany  me  to  the  east  coast  of  Greenland,  but 
I  cannot,  on  account  of  his  mother,  who  does  not  want 
him  to  ofO; 

April  20. — Light  snow,  with  light  southerly  winds. 
Kim-mock-kone  left  early  this  morning.  The  ther- 
mometer fell  last  night  to  plus  3°.  The  natives  have 
no  dogs,  and,  it  being  bad  weather,  they  are  not  seal- 
ino;.  .»    . 

April  21.  —  Cloudy;  light  breeze  from  the  south- 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


Ill 


east;  spittiiis^s  of  s!iow.  It  is  Sandiiy.  We  are  doing 
no  work  to-day.  Some  ot  the  natives  are  oft"  scaling. 
Inue-mar-ket,  who  arrived  yesterday  from  his  sealing 
station,  was  unal)le  to  l)ring  all  of  his  seals.  He  has 
gone  after  them  to-day.  A  sleigh  arrived  from  Molly 
Kater-nuna  last  evening.  The  weather  is  very  warm 
for  this  time  of  the  season  ;  {Am  18°  this  morning.  It 
is  thawing  on  deck,  wliere  the  cold  air  does  not  reach. 
I  have  been  trying  again  to  persuade  some  of  the  Es- 
quimaux to  accompany  me  to  the  coast  of  Greenland, 
and  they  promise  to  do  so.  We  shall  see.  My  "  meat 
cart"  has  just  arrived,  bringing  our  daily  allowance  of 
meat.  It  returns  to  the  shore  laden  with  seal-skulls 
for  Mr.  Kumlein,  the  naturalist. 


April  22. — Strong  breeze  from  the  south-east,  with 
snow.  The  Esquimaux  are  not  sealing,  on  account  of 
the  bad  weather,  but  have  ij;one  with  a  team  to  brim; 
in  some  seals,  buried  in  the  ice,  which  they  captured 
son^e  time  ago.  They  often,  when  hunting,  kill  more 
seals  than  thev  are  able  to  brino;  back  on  the  sleicrli, 
particularly  when  their  dogs  are  scarce.  Some  of  the 
Esquimaux  only  possess  one  dog;  others  two  or  three. 
If  one  is  the  proprietor  of  half  a  dozen  he  is  considered 
rich.  We  broke  out  a  cask  of  bread  this  mornini'', 
and  were  very  nuich  surprised  and  disappointed  to 
find  it  only  partly  full.  The  cask  contained  whale- 
line,  flags,  and  bread,  and  had  not  more  than  one  bun- 


mmmsam 


112 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


(ire J  pounds  of  the  latter;  whereas  had  it  been  full, 
as  I  supposed,  there  would  have  l)een  nearly  four  hun- 
dred pounds.  This  is  the  squaws'  allowance  day.  It 
reminds  rne  of  wash  dav  at  home. 


M 

iil.:: 


April  23. — Clear  and  sunshiny.  Were  employed 
to-day  at  ship  duty.  Oc-a-took  returned  last  night 
from  Kater-nuna.  Inue-mar-ket  has  orone  with  a  team 
ot  dogs  to  assist  Nep-e-ken  in  bringing  his  family 
and  the  seals  he  has  causrht  to  the  schooner.  Only 
two  of  the  natives  are  sealing  to-day.  Ar-but,  one  of 
the  natives  belonging  to  the  l)rig  Alert,  Captain  Wat- 
son, came  here  to-dav.  lie  has  been  eni^asred  at  vouuij: 
sealiuiJ!:  in  this  vicinitv  durinsr  the  last  month.  A  few 
davs  as:o  he  unfortunatelv  cut  otl'  the  end  of  his  third 
finsrer.  lie  came  here  to  have  it  doctored.  He  broudit 
six  vouno:  seal,  skins  and  all,  as  a  fee.  I  have  «fot  the 
seals  and  he  has  departed  satisfied. 


u 


m 


m 


April  24. — Cvloud}',  but  pleasant  and  warm  weather; 
light  north-east  wind.  We  were  employed  to-day  at 
repairing  the  vessel.  Most  of  the  Esquimaux  are  out 
sealing. 

April  25. —  Clear  and  fine.  Light  breeze  from  the 
north-east.  This  has  been  a  warm  spring,  and  an 
exceptional  one.  I  was  employed  to-day  doins:  some 
little  carpenter  work  ai'ound  the  Florence,  repairing 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  HULF. 


113 


stoariiig-goar,  kc.  Nop-o-kon  retuniod  last  evening 
from  liiH  young-sealing  expedition,  lie  has  been  very 
successful.  This  morning  I  got  (juite  a  immber  of  seals 
from  him,  and  have  set  the  squaws  at  work  skinning 
and  drying  them.  They  are  drying  in  the  sun,  the 
only  curing  process  they  undergo.  We  have  now  no 
night  proper.  It  is  dusky  at  midnight,  or  what  we 
would  call  midnight  if  it  was  dark.  Last  nierht  at  12 
o'clock  it  was  light  enough  to  see  to  read  large  print. 
We  have  had  a  regular  storm  of  Es({uimaux  this  after- 
noon at  dinner.  None  of  the  men  are  sealinof  to-dav. 
They  are  taking  a  holiday,  I  su[)pose.  to  commemorate 
their  success  in  the  young  sealing.  Men,  s(piaws,  and 
children  to  the  number  of  twentv-two  were  here  at 
dinner, — quite  a  large  family.  They  dine,  of  course, 
after  we  are  throm^h.  The  elite  come  first  here  as  well 
as  elsewhere, — they  have  the  best;  then  the  ordinary 
follow, — they  have  second  Ix^st;  then  the  squaws  and 
children,  and  they  have  third  best,  whicli  amounts  to 
little.  The  sun  has  a  hazy  appea  :  ace  this  evening, 
which  portends  a  storm,  I  fear. 


April  26. — Cloudy;  light  breeze  from  the  westward, 
accompanied  by  snow.  Last  evening  the  wind  hauled 
to  the  south-east,  and  some  little  snow  fell  througli  the 
nii^ht.  This  mornins^  the  wind  is  as  above,  but  I  tliink 
it  is  only  a  local  breeze,  as  the  weather  is  too  warm 

8 


114 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


P'  1     I 


i'or  westerly  winds.     Water  is  running  on  the  schoon- 
er's deck.     The  Esquimaux  are  housed, 

April  27. — We  liave  a  strong  breeze  to-day  tVoni 
the  north-west,  with  severe  squalls.  We  were  eni- 
l)loved  in  getting  ice  for  drinking  purposes.  Eg-e-low 
returned  last  evening  from  young  sealing.  He  brought 
many  seals.  The  natives  are  all  here  now,  to  the  num- 
ber of  twenty-five — men,  women,  and  children.  Our 
bread  disappears  very  fixst.  All  opportunities  for 
spring  whaling  have  been  lost  through  my  desire  to 
keep  the  Esquimaux  away  from  the  influences  of  those 
who  are  inimical  to  the  undertaking.  I  have  another 
one  of  my  crew  partly  laid  up.  The  cabin  boy,  I  fear, 
is  threatened  with  a  felon  on  one  of  his  fingers.  We 
can  laugh  at  the  scurvy,  but  sore  fingers  abound. 


April  28. — We  have  a  strong  and  cold  wind  from 
the  north.  The  sun  occasionally  shines,  but  the  weather 
is  in  the  main  cloudy.  Thermometer  fell  to  minus  7° 
last  night,  if  one  may  call  all  daylight  night.  It  is 
Sunday.  The  cleaning  and  drying  of  skins  go  on  as 
fast  as  the  weather  will  permit.  I  received  twenty 
young  seals  from  Inue-mar-ket  this  morning. 

April  29. — It  is  clear,  with  a  strong  breeze  from  the 
north-west.  Thermometer  last  night  minus  1".  The 
wind  makes  it  very  unpleasant.     It  feels  almost  as 


i!   ai:i 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


115 


cold  as  when  niimis  40°.  Allowance  (lav.  Two  fanii- 
lies  are  about  to  start  on  a  visit  to  Xiantilic  to  see 
their  friends.  It  was  light  enon^li  last  night  when  the 
sun  was  making  the  circunipolar  circuit  to  read  at 


midnight. 


ii 


April  30. — April  has  taken  its  departure  in  rather 
a  rough  manner.  It  is  snowing  quite  fast,  and  the 
temperature  being  high  enough  to  thaw  the  snow  as 
it  comes  in  contact  with  the  skin  or  with  clothing,  of 
course  it  is  very  unpleasant.  Noiie  of  the  Esquimaux 
are  hunting,  and  they  have  postponed  their  contem- 
plated journey  to  Niantdic.  I  v/as  prepared  to  send 
a  sleigh  to  Kickerton  Islanci,  but  that,  too,  nuist  be 
postponed  on  account  of  the  weather.  Thu  time  drags 
heavily  and  wearily.  I  could  be  in  a  manner  content 
if  I  were  oidy  sure  of  success.  I  lie  down  niglits  and 
thiiik,  and  then,  fading  asleep,  dream  of  what  should 
be  done  to  insure  success;  but  all  amounts  to  a  head- 
ache in  the  end. 


■r^j 


m 


May  1. — It  has  been  a  beautiful  day,  the  sun  shining 
brightly  and  the  w^ind  blowing  slightly  from  the  north- 
west, with  a  cloudless  skv.  Yesterdav  afternoon  tlie 
wind  hauled  to  the  west  and  snow  ceased  fallinir. 
Through  the  night  the  wind  blew  quite  strong;  at  its 
maximum,  al)out  thirty  miles  an  hour.  It  was  quite 
cold  also,  minus  5°;    but  this,  the  tirst  of  May,  is 


i* 


IW 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


fii 


■t    I 


Bpleudid,  with  its  warm  snn  and  liglit  wind.  We 
commenced  on  our  next  to  the  last  cask  of  coal  to- 
day.    We  have  enough  to  last,  prol)al)ly,  six  weeks. 

Nep-e-ken  and  family  and  Mr.  Kundein  started  for 
the  Kickertons  this  morning.  I  have  written  to  Captain 
Roach,  of  that  station,  to  send  me  up  a  large  sleigh — 
one  that  is  capal>le  of  carrying  a  heavy  cask.  I  shall 
try  to  save  some  of  the  l)kibher  of  the  whale  killed 
last  fall.  We  had  an  increase  in  our  familv  last  nio^ht. 
Polly,  (Kim-ik-pak-jic,)  wife  of  Ete-tun,  w^as  delivered 
of  a  male  child  in  the  night.  Both  mother  and  child, 
I  believe,  are  doing  well.  This  will  prevent  tlieir 
going  to  Niantilic,  as  they  contemplated.  Inue-mar- 
ket  and  family  and  Chummy  have  gone,  however. 

Mav  2. — Fine  weather;  clear  and  cold.  The  ther- 
mometer  fell  last  night  to  minus  9°.  The  wind  is 
from  the  north-west.  It  is  bright  and  sunshiny.  Em- 
ployed at  setting  u[)  a  cask.  None  of  the  Esquimaux 
out  seahng  to-day,  I  suppose,  on  aceount  of  some 
superstitious  notion.  The  mother  and  the  late  addi- 
tion to  the  ship's  company  are  doing  well.  The  season 
is  more  backward  than  I  anticipated.  Everything  is 
as  vet  covered  with  its  winter  coat  of  snow.  It  will 
be  a  relief  to  see  once  more  the  bare  rocks  and  the 
blue  sea.  Mr.  Sherman  is  making  preparations  to 
observe  the  transit  of  Mercury  across  the  sun,  which 
occurs  May  6.  .. 


H 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


117 


May  3. — Fair  weather,  l)iit  nothing  to  hoast  of. 
Cirrus  clouds,  denotinor  wind.  Strono;  wind  vesterdav 
afternoon  from  west  and  south-west.  The  thermom- 
eter did  not  fall  to  zero;  plus  9°  was  the  lowest  point 
reached.  A  tOT  of  the  Esquimaux  went  sealing  this 
mornins:.  Of  course  we  have  l)ut  a  few  dogs  to  work 
with,  as  the  travellers  to  Kickerton  and  Niantihc  cai'- 
ried  off  all  hut  six,  and  one  of  them  I  have  on  board, 
she  liaving  given  hirth  to  young  last  night.  I  ho[)e  to 
save  these  pups,  as  they  will  he  excellent  dogs  to  carry 
on  the  expedition.  We  still  keep  up  Ihe  system  of 
two  meals  a  day.  AVe  are  compelled  to  do  so  on 
account  of  the  2:rowini?  scarcitv  of  both  food  and  fuel. 
We  have  plenty  of  meat,  Init  l)read  must  be  used  with 
economy. 


% 


May  4. — Cloudy,  warm  weatlier.  A  light,  variable 
wind  prevails.  Inue-mar-ket  returned  last  night.  lie 
did  not  go  any  farther  than  Kater-nuna.  Chunmiy 
continued  on  to  Niantilic.  The  Es(|uimaux  returned 
last  night,  bringing  four  seals,  the  spoil  of  the  day's 
hunt.  They  are  not  off  to-day,  the  most  of  them 
being  troubled  with  ophthalmia.  I  lost  three  of  my 
young  puppies  last  night.  I  sup[)Ose  they  got  chilled 
with  cold  throui>:h  the  neij:lect  of  the  mother.  The  re- 
maining  four  are  doing  well.  Employed  to-day  over- 
haulins:  all  the  schooner's  ^'car.  We  find  it  in  rather 
a  bad  condition.     The  two  men  with  sore  hands  and 


118 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


i  -1^ 


m  *^ 
ill 


ti    f 


the  one  with  sore  foot  are  convalescing  slowly.    I  con- 
sider the  saving  of  Lee's  foot  next  to  miraculous. 

Ete-tun-winger,  husband  of  Kim-ik-pak-jic,  came 
to  me  this  mornino;  and  wished  me  to  «rive  him  some 
bread  for  his  wife.  I  gave  it  to  him.  He  stood  a  few 
moments  and  verj'  delicately  hinted  that  Polly — -we 
alwaj's  call  her  "Polly" — would  like  a  little  butter 
(aksunk)  to  eat  with  ^her  bread.  I  gave  him  a  little 
butter,  but  it  was  evident  that  his  errand  was  not  fin- 
ished. He  was  fidgety.  In  a  few  moments  he  hauled 
out  one  of  the  cast-away  pepper-boxes  of  the  steward's 
and  requested  me  to  give  him  a  small  quantity  of  sugar 
for  his  wife.  I  gave  it  to  him.  The  poor  squaw  must 
sufl:er  a  great  deal  from  the  effects  of  her  late  confine- 
ment. It  is  very  evident,  however,  that  they  are  get- 
tinsr  civihzed  fast. 

At  noon  to-day,  the  sun  being  out  and  quite  bright, 
I  concluded  to  try  the  thermometer  in  the  sun's  rays 
alongside  of  the  schooner.  For  that  purpose  I  hung 
it  on  the  port  side  of  the  vessel,  suspending  it  by  a 
string,  the  instrument  being  'n  its  box,  the  box  leaning 
against  the  black-painted  side  of  the  schooner  and  ele- 
vated four  feet  from  the  ice.  It  rose  to  plus  73°.  I  then 
placed  the  thermometer  on  the  other  side  of  the  vessel, 
in  the  shade,  and  in  about  the  same  position  in  regard 
to  the  ice.  It  fell  to  plus  35° — a  difference  of  38°.  I 
then  buried  the  thermometer,  it  being  in  the  box,  one 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


Ill) 


foot  deep  in  the  snow.     It  fell  to  plus  28°.     On  shore 
Mr.  Sherman's  thermometer  read  at  noon  plus  24°. 


1: 


May  5. — We  have  a  bright  and  beautiful  day. 
Scarcely  a  cloud  is  to  be  seen.  Although  we  have 
generally  fine  and  warm  days,  we  have  also  cool 
nights.  We  call  it  "  night,"  from  habit,  though  it  be 
not  dark.  The  sun  gives  us  but  very  little  heat  when 
low  in  the  northern  horizon.  Last  night  the  thernioni- 
eter  fell  to  plus  5°.  This  morning  shortly  after  sunrise 
it  read  plus  20°.  Chummy  arrived  last  night  from 
the  south.  Tes-e-wane  and  his  wife  also  came  from 
Niantilic,  bringing  me  a  few  skins.  I  left  a  quan- 
tity of  trade  with  him  last  fall  for  the  purpose  of 
procuring  skins.  This  is  the  second  time  he  has  sent 
me  some. 

The  vessels  that  wintered  at  Niantilic  succeeded  in 
getting  into  the  water  in  the  latter  part  of  March  or 
the  fore  part  of  April,  and  they  are  now  at  the  tloe 
edge.  As  yet  they  have  not  taken  any  whales.  One 
of  them — the  steamer — is  frozen  in  the  floe  nearly  in 
the  centre  of  the  gulf 

It  is  Sunday.  Everything  is  rpiiet.  Some  of  the 
men  are  taking  a  stroll  on  the  ice ;  others  on  the  shore. 
Some  few  of  the  Esquimaux  are  off  sealing.  Mr. 
Kumlein  and  Nep-e-ken,  with  all  the  party  who  went 
to  the  Kickertons,  arrived  here  this  evening.  They 
had  not  as  good  travelling  as  they  anticipated.    They 


-  I 

I 


i  I 


; 


i-k 


It   ; 


120 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


were  twentv-three  hours  in  reachincf  there.  The^' 
staid  there  one  dav  and  then  started  on  their  return. 
They  were  forced  to  sleep  on  the  ice  last  night. 
Captain  Roach  has  sent  nie  a  hirge  sleigh ;  also  some 
flags  to  Hag  casks  with.  Captain  Hall  sent  nie  a 
fine  lot  of  coffee  mugs  or  drink  cups ;  also  a  crow- 
])ar,  of  which  we  were  in  need.  They  are  anxious- 
ly looking  for  whales,  but  as  yet  have  seen  none. 
All  the  vessels,  I  understand,  liave  been  frozen  in  the 
vouns:  ice  in  and  about  the  centre  of  the  li-ulf  Onlv 
two  have  succeeded  in  o'cttinii;  out  of  it. 

Mr.  Knndein's  expethtion  to  the  Kickertons  was 
not  void  of  good,  as  he  was  fortunate  in  collecting 
some  rare  specimens.  Among  the  collection  wiis  one 
fine  large  bear's  head,  skeletons  of  the  netzik  seal  and 
oog-jook,  and  some  fossil  remains  of  marine  animals 
from  Kennedy  Lake.  As  it  is  not  generally  known, 
I  will  here  mention  that  the  vouna:  of  the  licarded 
seal — or  "oog-jook,"  as  the  Esquimaux  call  it — sheds 
its  coat  of  dark-blue  hair  before  birth. 


!■■  ! 


t    i 


May  (3. — The  sun  was  clear  and  bright  this  morning. 
{Shortly  after  sum'ise,  however,  a  light  breeze  sprang 
u[)  from  the  north-east,  bringing  with  it  a  damp  fog. 
The  only  instrument  Mr.  Sherman  had  for  observing 
the  transit  of  Mercury  was  a  three-inch  terrestrial  tel- 
escope. We  were  employed  to-day  setting  up  rigging. 
The  work  [)rogresses  very  slowly,  and  it  is  quite  warni. 


I 


I 


IWII    I 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


121 


Owing  to  the  warm  air  and  the  foc^  conil)ine{l  the  snow 
is  disappearing  rapidly.  At  4  o'clock  in  tlie  afternoon 
the  fog  became  dense,  and  has  nndonl^tedh'  interrupt- 
ed Mr.  Sherman's  observations.  He  saw  tlie  greater 
portion  of  the  transit,  however.  This  has  been  allow- 
ance, or  squawk's  day. 


May  7.  —  Cloudy,  with  some  little  haze;  the  siin, 
however,  shining  occasionally.  A  bright  parlielit^n  was 
observed  this  morning  ;  also  cirrus  clouds.  So  we 
may  look  for  a  storm  soon.  A  sleigh  arrived  from 
Kater-nuna,  brinsrino^  me  seventv  skins  of  youmii;  seals, 
which  I  traded  for.  Most  of  the  Esquimaux  are  seal- 
ing today.  Tes- -wane  started  on  his  return  to  the 
south,  and  I  am  not  sorry;  for  not  only  are  the  Esqui- 
maux a  great  deal  of  trouble,  Init  so  many  dogs  around 
the  schooner  make  the  night  hideous.  Empbyed  to-day 
in  getting  fresh-water  ice,  coopering  casks,  and  rcpair- 
inc^  sails. 


May  8. — Ilazv,  warm  weather.  Thermometer  iilus 
46°.  The  ice  is,  of  course,  wasting  very  fast  undcn*  the 
combined  inHuences  of  lieat  and  currents.  Here  at 
AnnanaTook  the  current  is  very  strong,  and  I  expect 
the  Florence  will  l)e  afloat  long  l)eibre  the  gulf  ice 
will  allow  us  to  depart  from  the  harbor.  It  will  need 
some  care  to  prevent  her  from  being^Bhoved  on  shore 
by  these  floating  masses  of  ice.     We  are  pi'e[)aring  to 


1 

I 


■Hi 


122 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


;i      i 


■  \ 


go  to  the  whale  and  try  to  save  some  of  the  bhihber. 
Of  course  in  this  matter  we  have  to  depend  upon  the 
Esquimaux  for  help.  If  it  was  not  for  them  I  could 
do  nothing  with  the  whale ;  in  fact,  I  could  accomplish 
but  very  little  here  in  any  matter  without  their  aid. 
They  returned  late  last  night  from  sealing,  l)ringing 
some  half-dozen  seals.  They  are  preparing  to  vacate 
their  snow  iglaus,  which  have  sheltered  them  during 
the  winter,  and  betake  themselves  to  their  skin  huts 
or  "tapigs" — their  summer  residences. 


Ww^ 

. 

''WW^n' 

■i 

• 

May  9. — Cloudy  and  foggy.  It  has  evidently  been 
storminoj  durino^  the  last  three  davs  around  and  near 
US,  but,  excepting  a  light  fall  of  snow  and  a  hea\'y  fog 
which  hangs  around  and  over  the  land,  we  have  not  felt 
or  seen  any  of  its  effects.  Thermometer  yesterday  plus 
48°;  this  morning  plus  36°;  last  night  it  did  not  fall 
below  27°.  The  burgomaster -gulls  have  made  their 
appearance.  So,  too,  the  little  snowbirds.  They  have 
been,  to  the  south  of  us,  near  and  about  the  water  for 
the  last  month.  Man}'  ducks  are  swimming  near  the 
floe  edge.  Everything  has  a  lively  and  spring-like  ap- 
pearance. The  wind  is  from  the  south.  It  looks  dark 
and  heavy  down  the  gulf.  Some  few  of  the  Esquimaux 
are  sealing;  others  are  busy  getting  their  tapigs  or 
summer  huts  read\'.  The  warm  weather  has  likewise 
destroyed  the  sifow  covering  of  the  observatory,  and 


?  'Ml 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


128 


its  occupants  have  to  rely  upon  the  bare  canvas  foi- 
shelter. 


Ma*y  10. — The  weather  still  remains  thick;  snow, 
fog,  and  southerly  wind.  It  is  so  warm,  however,  that 
the  snow  melts  about  as  fast  as  it  falls.  The  weather 
is  bad  for  drying  skins,  and  little  progress  is  made  in 
that  direction.  It  is  a  bad  time  for  the  Esquimaux, 
as  they  are  continually  kept  wet  by  the  falling  and 
melting  snow,  which  keeps  their  tapigs  in  a  dirty  and 
wretched  condition.  They  brought  some  few  seals  last 
night  or  this  morning;  for  they  were  gone  until  morn- 
ing. Cracks  are  opening  in  the  ice.  Here  and  there, 
too,  are  some  little  pools  of  water.  For  several  hours 
this  afternoon  a  heavy  rain  fell,  and  during  the  con- 
tinuance of  the  storm  there  was  scarcely  a  dry  spot  to 
be  found  in  the  vessel's  cabin.  The  cold,  dry,  frosty 
weather  of  winter  has  so  shrunken  the  wood-work  tliat 
water  is  free  to  enter.  I  can  call  to  mind  but  one 
rain-storm  in  my  experience  in  the  Arctic  regions  in 
the  month  of  May,  and  that,  I  think,  was  in  1861. 
We  have  washed  decks  all  day,  the  tirst  time  in  1878. 


May  11.  —  Still  cloudy  and  thick.  Rain  fell  the 
entire  niffht.  We  had  a  strong  breeze  from  the  south 
last  night,  which  has  moderated  to-day.  I  sent  two 
sleighs,  carrying  seven  casks,  down  to  the  whale.     If 


124 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLOFENCE. 


the  weather  is  fUvorable  the  Esquimaux  will  follow 
to-morrow. 


If' 


Mav  12. — AVind  still  stroni?  from  the  south-east. 
Some  little  rain  fell  last  evening.  The  Esquimaux 
returned  with  the  two  sleighs  at  11  p.  m.  It  is  Sunday. 
All  quiet. 

May  13. — Heavy  southerly  wind.  I  dispatched  one 
sleigh-load  of  casks  to  the  whale  this  morning.  Esqui- 
maux otf  sealing  yesterday.  They  brought  back  a  few 
seals.  Four  of  them  have  not  returned  vet.  It  is 
quite,  warm,  and  the  ice  is  wasting  fast.  Many  gulls 
and  ducks  were  seen  to-day.  They  are  on  their  way 
to  the  holes  cut  through  the  ice  by  the  currents  in 
this  vicinity.  If  this  southerly  wind  continues  much 
longer  I  fear  the  pack-ice  of  Davis's  Strait  will  enter 
the  irulf 


May  14. — Somewhat  foggy  this  morning,  but  as  the 
sun  gained  strength  the  fog  disappeared,  and  it  is  now 
warm  and  sunny.  Kim-mock-koue  returned  at  mid- 
night from  carrying  casks  to  the  whale.  Al-o-kee 
started  this  morning  for  the  Kickertons  to  procure  a 
wife.  This  native  promises  to  go  to  the  East  Land,  or 
coast  of  Greenland,  to  join  the  expedition  there.  He 
is  desirous  of  a  wife  before  he  starts.  I  shall  be  com- 
pelled to  wait  until  he  returns  before  I  can  send  down 


WINTER  IN  CUxMBEULAND  (JULF. 


n2b 


to  the  wliale,  on  account  of  the  scarcity  of  dogs.  We 
were  eniplo3'ed  to-day  painting  hoats,  coo[)ering  casks, 
&c. 

May  15. — Weather  somewhat  thick;  wind  soutl> 
east;  snow  this  niornini^.  The  weather  is  verv  warm, 
even  when  the  sum  is  low;  at  night  ice  scarcely  makes. 
This  warm,  sultry  weather  prevents  the  drying  and 
curins:  of  skins,  and  I  much  fear  we  shall  lose  many 
from  that  cause.  I  to-day  dispatched  a  sleigh  with  a 
load  of  casks  to  the  whale.  • 
•        - 

'  Mav  16. — The  weather  is  fine  and  warm,  with  lii^ht 
southerlv  wind.  The  sun  is  extremely  hot,  and  this, 
of  course,  denotes  more  southerly  or  easterly  weatlier. 
Nep-(3-ken,  my  namesake,  has  started  with  all  the  male 
Esquimaux  —  to  the  nund:>er  of  ten  —  down  to  the 
whale.  If  it  is  not  possible  to  cut  up  the  carcass,  they 
will  seal  a  few  days.  All  the  squaws  are  busy  making 
tapigs  and  cleaning  and  drying  skins.  We  are  em- 
ployed to-day  coopering  casks,  painting  tlie  l)oats,  and 
dryinir  the  skin-clothins:,  wliich  latter  had  been  some- 
what  damp. 

May  17. — -Cloudy;  southerly  wind,  with  snow.  The 
remarkably  warm  weather  has  brought  forth  new 
grass.  Some  flowers  are  also  making  their  appear- 
ance on  the  southern  exposures.      Flies  are  abundant. 


aijininjffiiiiMiUMWM 


126 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


*»■. '. 


Snow  disappears  as  fast  as  it  falls.  Wc  are  on  our 
last  cask  of  coal.  It  now  contains  about  one-third  of 
a  ton.  Mr.  Kunilein's  forefinger  of  the  left  hand  is 
quite  sore.  This  makes  the  third  man  in  the  crew  so 
afflicted.  One  of  the  three  came  very  near  losing  the 
use  of  his  hand  for  life,  and  I  greatly  fear  he  will  lose 
the  use  of  one  finger,  notwithstanding  all  the  care  that 
has  been  bestowed  upon  him. 

May  18. — Sky  overcast ;  weather  quite  warm  ;  light 
airs  from  the  west.  We  had  a  little  hail  hist  evening. 
Al-o-kee  returned  last  nis^ht  from  his  seaw3h  after  a 
wife.  He  did  not  succeed  in  finding  one.  This  morn- 
ing he  started  for  the  whale,  to  join  his  brother  Esqui- 
maux. No  news  of  interest  from  the  Kickertons.  We 
have  some  half-dozen  barrels  of  seal  blubber,  collected 
from  the  Esquimaux.  We  were  employed  to-day  get- 
itig  fresh-water  ice  from,  the  land,  making  a  water 
butt,  &c. 


in  >■[ 


May  19.  —  Sky  still  overcast.  Yesterday,  toward 
evening,  the  westerly  wind  increased  to  a  moderate 
gale,  accompanied  at  times  by  snow.  Through  the 
night  the  thermometer  fell  to  plus  18°.  It  is  a  warm 
day  and  we  have  southerly  wind.  I  hear  nothing  from 
Nep-e-ken  and  his  party.  His  wife  ( 0-cas-e-ak-j  u ) 
sent  for  me  last  night  to  attend  her  little  son,  who 
was  taken  suddenly  ill.     I  found  him  in  a  high  fever. 


WINTER  IN  CUMDERLAND  GULF. 


127 


He  had  probiibly  tiiken  cold  playing  in  the  damp  snow. 
He  is  somewhat  better  this  morniiis;.  It  is  Sunday, 
and  no  work,  of  course,  is  going  on.  The  men  cleaned 
themselves  up  a  little  and  took  a  stroll. 


May  20. — Yesterday  the  soutlierly  wind  gradually 
increased  until  night,  when  it  culminated  in  a  gale. 
We  had  all  varieties  of  weather — rain,  hail,  snow,  and 
sleet' — until  3  o'clock  this  morning,  when  the  wind  sud- 
denly hauled  to  the  west,  where  it  is  now.  Snow  con- 
tinues  to  fall  and  water  is  making  fast.  The  currents 
and  almost  unprecedented  warm  weather  are  doing 
their  work  of  destruction,  and  its  results  are  visible 
from  hour  to  hour.  It  is  now  unsafe  to  venture  on 
the  ice  on  the  port  side  of  the  vessel,  it  is  so  wasted. 
Holes  miles  in  extent  have  formed  to  the  north  and 
west.  The  ice  on  the  south,  oi'  dowii  the  gulf,  is  as 
vet  firm  and  strono;.  In  a  few  davs  all  the  ice  in  the 
head  of  the  gulf  will  be  wasted  away,  leaving,  how- 
ever, miles  of  it  still  tirndy  adhering  to  the  land  be- 
low us. 

Eva,  accompanied  by  another  native  and  his  squaw, 
came  from  Kater-nuna  last  nisrht.  Thev  had  consid- 
erable  difficulty  in  getting  here  on  account  of  the 
wasted  condition  of  the  ice.  Eva  brought  me  only 
three  skins.  The  travelling  has  been  so  bad  that  he 
failed  to  get  the  skins  which  he  had  cached  near  Ken- 
nedy Lake.     The  otlier  native  brought  me  sixteen 


128 


THE  CKUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


Jl    ^? 


ft:i  'i 


skins  of  voniiijr  seals  and  one  deer-skin.  Tliese  twenty 
skins  I  consider  worth  a  liundred  dollars  to  the  expe- 
dition. The  two  Esqniniaux  have  heard  somewhere 
that  the  ])avis  Strait  pack-ice  is  in  the  gulf.  I  hope 
the  rnnior  will  prove  untrue.  It  is  quite  cool  again 
this  evening.     Thernionieter  plus  20°. 

May  21.^-Quite  clear  and  cold.  The  thernionieter 
fell  last  night  to  plus  15°.  It  re.ad  plus  20°  this  morn- 
inir.  We  have  a  stroni^^  breeze  from  the  north-west, 
and  every  evidence  of  moi'e  wind.  If  it  does  no  otlier 
good,  I  sincerely  hope  it  will  clear  the  gulf  of  pack- 
ice.  The  flies,  whicli  were  so  abundant  a  few  days 
ago,  have  disappeared,  the  cold  snap  having  killed 
them. 

At  5  o'clock  p.  M.  Nep-e-ken  and  his  party,  all  but 
two,  returned  from  the  whale.  ()c-a-took  and  l?e-ker 
went  to  get  some  deer-meat  which  they  buried  in  the 
mountains  last  summer.  Thevwill  also  look  for  deer. 
Nep-e-ken  informs  me  that  the  shore  ice  around  the 
whale  is  still  very  heavy,  and  he  proposes  to  postpone 
the  cutting  up  until  a  more  auspicious  time.  The  par- 
ty encamped  one  night  on  the  ice  going  down  and  one 
night  coming  back.  They  re[)ort  the  ice  very  mucli 
wasted,  even  as  low  down  as  they  have  been.  Indeed, 
Nep-e-ken  says  he  never  before  saw  it  so  rotten  at  this 
time  in  the  year.    The  ice  alonsr  the  shore  above  low- 


WTNTKR  IN  CUMHEHLAND  (ll'LF. 


120 


water  mark  lies  in  larujr,  licavv,  hrokeii  marfsos,  and 
under  one  of  these  tlie  whale  is  lyinff. 

Mav  22. — We  have  tine  weather  to-dav;  licfht  ])reeze 
troni  the  north-west,  and  elear  hut  eool.  Tl  e  ther- 
inonu'ter  fell  last  night  to  plus  15°.  We  were  em- 
ployed to-day  cleaning  the  hone  from  the  whale's 
head.  We  find  the  slahs  a  little  over  ten  feet  in 
length.  It  is  not  as  large  a  head  as  I  had  hoped.  The 
slahs  from  a  very  large  head  will  measure  from  eleven 
to  thirteen  feet,  and  the  Jaw-l)()nes  of  a  large  whale 
will  measure  from  seventeen  to  sevontv  feet.  The 
two  Esquimaux,  Pe-ker  and  ()c-a-t<jok,  retni*ned  late 
last  night,  or  early  this  morning.  The  cahin  hoy  fell 
through  the  ice  yesterday  while  going  asliore  for  our 
supply  of  meat.  While  I  am  writing  this  the  wind 
hauls  to  the  south-east.  There  are  indications  of  had 
weather  asrain.  We  are  certainlv  havinii;  a  trvini? 
time  (^f  it  this  spring.  One  bad  spell  of  weather  fol- 
lows another  in  quick  succession.  Under  the  com- 
bined action  of  warm  and  bad  weather  and  currents, 
I  do  not  think  the  ice  can  last  longer  than  the  15lh  of 
June.  That  is  one  month  earlier  than  it  generally 
disappears  in  the  gulf.  This  evening  I  went  on  shore 
to  ascertain,  if  possible,  something  about  that  deer- 
meat.  I  found  it,  but  concluded  to  let  it  remain,  as  it 
was  rather  too  old  for  our  use. 
9 


-m^^ 


? 


130 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


'f!;! 


i      I 


% 


May  23. — We  have  light  southerly  winds  and  snow 
to-day.     It  is  quite  warm. 

May  24. — Very  fine  weather  to-day;  light  easterly 
winds;  sun  very  hot.  This  morning  the  thermometer 
in  the  sun  read  plus  70°.  Kuck-oo-jug  and  son  started 
for  the  Kickerton  Islands  this  morning.  Nep-e-ken  and 
three  others  have  gone  to  the  whale.  They  will  hring 
back  the  lines,  tubs,  and  whaling-gear  which  were  left 
there  last  fall.  I  expect  another  south-east  storm  by 
to-morrow. 


.  n 


f  i 


Mav  25. — The  storm  anticipated  vesterdav  from  the 
south-east  did  not  come.  Instead,  we  have  a  strong 
breeze  from  the  wTst.  Yesterdav  afternoon  or  evenim^ 
the  dark,  heav}' bank  of  clouds  which  was  seen  down  the 
gulf  from  early  morning  came  rolling  up  to  the  north 
and  west,  covering  the  entire  sky.  We  all  looked  for 
a  severe  storm  and  hoped  to  have  better  weather  after 
it,  but  we  were  disappointed.  It  was  quite  looI  this 
morning.  Thermometer  read  plus  2.!i°.  Two  Esqui- 
maux arrived  from  the  Ivickertons  yesterdav  even- 
iug.  They  report  nothing  doing  there,  and  that  no 
whales  have  been  seen.  8ome  of  the  Esquimaux  are 
quite  sick,  and  the  ankoots  are,  therefore,  hard  at  work. 

Mav  26. — This  is  what  mav  be  termed  ''varietv" 
weather.    Yesterday  we  had  a  strong,  cold  wind  from 


I 


jem:^"-;  ', 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


131 


the  north-west,  which  abated  in  the  evenincr.  The 
clouds  again  rolled  up  from  the  south  and  east  lo  tlie 
north.  At  12  midnight  frozen  snow  fell.  The  wind 
veered  quickly  to  the  north  and  west  and  blew  with 
violence.  It  is  in  the  same  quarter  to-day,  but  it  is 
somewhat  more  moderate.  The  Esquimaux  who 
came  from  the  south  day  before  yesterdav  are  not 
from  the  Kickertons,  as  I  supposed,  but  from  Sha-meer, 
a  place  a  little  to  the  north  of  Cape  Storey,  the  north- 
ern cape  at  the  entrance  to  the  gulf.  They  report  a 
great  deal  of  ice  in  Davis's  Stniit.  They  brought 
two  very  line  bear-skins  to  the  Florence,  one  from'^an 
old  bear  and  the  other  from  a  young  one.  Tlie  mer- 
cury fell  to  plus  18°  last  night.  Ice  made  in  tlie 
washing  vessel  in  my  state-i-oom.  We  keep  no  tire 
hi  pleasant  weather,  as  there  is  no  coal  to  spare.  It 
is  Sunday.  We  are  doing  nothing,  excepting,  of 
course,  the  scientilic  woi'k,  which  never  stops. 

JMay  27.  — Fair  weather;  light  breeze  from  the 
north-we.st.  It  was  cool  last  night;  mercury  phis  30°. 
I  sjiy  "night";  of  course  we  have  no  night,  the  sun 
merely  dipping  tlie  northern  vi]<XL^  of  the  horizon.  We 
are  still  employed  cleaning  the  whjdel)one.  Wc  find 
it  very  dirty.  Xep-e-ken,  Kte-tun,  Al-o-kee,  Chum- 
my, and  Inue-mar-ket  all  promise  to  acconqijinv  me 
to  the  coast  of  Greenhujd,  and  are  making  i)re[iara- 
tions  to  do  so. 


132 


THE  CRUISE  OF  TiiE  FLORENCE. 


if -A 

m 
'■ 


i 


May  28.  —  To-clay  we  have  cloudy  weather,  with 
light  hreeze  from  the  south-east.  We  were  employed 
repairing  sails.  All  the  male  Esquimaux  except  two 
have  heen  awav  for  several  davs;  some  deer-huntinir, 
others  seal-huntincc.  The  two  remaininsr  at  the  schoon- 
er  are  Ete-tun  and  Oc-a-took.  The  latter  is  sick.  Mr. 
8herman  has  been  surveying  the  harbor  and  vicinity 
imd  taking  the  altitudes  of  the  prominent  headlands. 
Froze  quite  hard  last  night. 

May  29. — We  had  quite  a  gale  of  wind  from  tho 
south-east  last  nisrht.  Three  inches  of  snow  fell.  The 
wind  is  to  the  south  to-day  and  more  moderate.  It 
looks  wild  and  bad  down  the  gulf.  Two  Esquimaux 
returned  from  a  deer  and  seal  hunt  last  ni2:ht.  Thev 
killed  one  deer  and  several  seals.  Ete-tun,  who 
went  out  vesterdav,  brouii^ht  back  four  seals.  Not- 
withstanding:  the  southerlv  wind,  the  mercurv  fell  to 
phis  24°  last  night.  It  thawed  freely  this  morning. 
Broached  a  tierce  of  hams  to-dav,  the  first  we  have 
used.  The  wind  blew  at  the  rate  of  thirtv-tive  miles 
an  hour  this  evening.  It  is  snowing,  and  the  snow  is 
drilling. 


i 


May  30. — Cloudy ;  light  precipitation  of  snow,  with 
varial)le  wind.  Nep-e-ken  and  party  returned  last 
niglit,  bringing  our  whale-lines  and  tubs.     Al-o-kee 


also  I'eturned  from  Kickerton  Islands.     He  r 


eports  no 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


133 


whales  as  yet.  The  Esquimaux  brought  in  some  few 
seals.  They  inform  me  that  the  ice  is  in  such  a  rotten 
condition  that  they  are  unable  to  seal  upon  it  with  any 
fair  chance  of  success.  It  is  certainly  bad  enough  in 
this  immediate  vicinity.     It  is  dismal,  dreary  weather. 

May  31.~Fair  to-day;  quite  a  strong  breeze  from 
the  west.  Employed  cleaning  bone,  repairing  sails, 
&c. 


June  1  .—Cloudy ;  light  south-east  wind.  We  were 
employed  again  to-day  cleaning  bone,  repairing  sails, 
&c.  It  was  quite  cold  last  night,  and  the  temperature 
was  but  little  higher  this  moruimr. 

June  2. — The  south-east  wind  of  yesterday  increased 
to  a  gale  last  night  and  was  accompanied  by  hail  and 
sleet.  The  ice  to  the  north  of  Annanatook  has  so 
wasted  that  holes  of  water  miles  in  extent  are  visible. 
Last  night  the  ice  outside  of  the  harbor,  and  for  a  long 
distance  to  the  south  and  ^east,  gave  way  and  drifted 
to  the  north  into  these  vacant  places.  This  has  af- 
forded us  quite  a  sea  of  water,  which  is  not  now  mpre 
than  seventy  yards  from  the  stern  of  the  Florence. 
Some  miles  below  this,  again,  there  is  a  solid  barrier" 
of  ice,  extending  from  shore  to  shore  and  some  iifty 
or  sixty  miles  north-west,  and  vice  versa,  still  adherin"- 
to  the  land.     It  is,  of  course,  uncertain  when  this  will 


I 


134 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


i 


'.:    1:1 


give  way;  ])ut  I  do  not  think  it  can  remain  long, 
with  water  to  the  north  and  south  of  it. 

Kuck-oo-jng  and  son,  who  went  to  the  Kickertons 
some  days  a^o,  arrived  last  nis^ht.  Thev  had  to  make 
a  long  circuit  to  the  westward,  and  came  up  the  south 
shore,  where  the  ice  is  still  quite  firm.  I  received  a 
letter  from  Captain  Hall  by  Ivuck-oo-jug.  He  in- 
formed me  that  the  pack-ice  of  Davis's  Straits  has 
been  up  to  the  \<^r-  odge  or  fast  ice ;  that  only  lately 
it  has  drifted  awa>  avins:  them  a  chance  to  ii:et  their 
boats  in  the  water  to  look  for  whales.  He  thinks  the 
pack-ice  is  but  a  short  distance  below  Warren's  Island. 
As  no  whales  are  seen  at  the  Kickertons,  he  supposes 
they  are  in  the  loose  pack  below. 

The  wind  is  still  in  the  south-east,  weather  thick, 
and  snow  falling. 


June  3. — We  cannot  complain  of  the  weather  to- 
day. It  is  very  fine,  with  light,  warm,  variable  winds. 
We  broke  the  wasted  ice  around  the  vessel  and  hauled 
her  to  a  safer  position.  The  ice  was  so  wasted  on 
each  side  of  the  schooner  for  some  distance  that  it 
was  diflicult  to  get  on  or  off  the  vessel.  Yesterday 
we  had  to  use  the  small  boat  to  break  away  between 

• 

the  vessel  and  the  firm  ice.  We  were  employed  to- 
day getting  everything  off  the  ice  and  stowed  in  the 
hold,  to  be  ready  for  a  general  break-up. 


WINTER  IN  CITMIJERLAND  GULF. 


135 


June  4. — The  light,  variable  wind  and  fine  weather 
of  yesterday  did  not  last  lono^.  Toward  evenini;  the 
wind  settled  in  the  south-east  and  blew  hard.  At  (J 
o'clock  p.  M.  it  was  blowing  at  the  rate  of  thirty-six 
miles  an  hour,  and  it  continued  at  this  rate  through 
the  night.  Some  of  the  squalls  must  have  travelled 
fifty  miles  an  hour.  The  wind  blows  directlv  into  the 
harbor.  All  the  broken  ice  outside — and  there  were 
many  miles  of  it— has  gone  to  the  north.  The  i^ale 
was  not  so  violent  this  morning,  but  was  still  strong, 
with  thick  snow.  The  ice  on  the  port  side  of  the  ves- 
sel has  given  away;  also  that  attached  to  the  little  isl- 
and about  sixty  yards  to  the  south  of  the  us.  AH  of 
this  ice  is  now  pressing  on  the  vessel,  which  is  in  turn 
pressing  on  the  still-fost  harbor  ice  to  the  north.  We 
are  in  no  immediate  danger,  however.  The  ice  has 
given  way  a  month  earlier  than  usual.  This  has  de- 
stroyed the  sealing,  the  best  month  for  that  purpose 
being  June.  Of  course,  without  ice  very  few  seals 
are  captured. 

The  strong  belt  of  ice  down  the  gulf  is  still  fast. 
If  it  had  given  way  it  would  have  come  to  the  north 
with  the  southerly  wdnd. 


June  5. — The  wind  continued  to  blow  all  dav  yes- 
terday,  and  was  accompanied  by  snow,  hail,  sleet,  and 
rain.  At  12  o'clock  midniglit  snow  connnenced  fall- 
ing in  earnest,  and  lay  as  it  fell.     This  morning  at  8 


ni 


M~: 


■■ 


136 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


■.,  I  1  'I 


i  P  '. 


o'clock  six  inches  of  snow  luicl  fallen.  At  12  o'clock 
meridian  it  was  still  snowing  fast.  We  hove  up  one 
anchor  to-day,  washed  deck,  and  are  getting  ready  for 
a  general  tear-up.  The  ice  is  so  wasted  that  one  can 
scarcely  reach  the  shore,  and  then  it  is  done  at  the  risk 
of  falling  through.  Outside  of  the  harbor  it  is  all  pack- 
ice,  drifting  with  currents  and  wind. 

June  6. — Shortly  after  12  o'clock  yesterday  the  wind 
veered  to  the  north-west,  and  it  continued  to  blow,  ac- 
companied by  snow,  till  2  o'clock  this  morning,  when 
the  snow  ceased,  the  wind  keeping  up.  The  sun  shines 
to-day,  but  it  is  quite  cold.  Thermometer  last  night 
read  plus  23°.  The  land,  which  was  getting  clear  of 
snow,  is  entirely  covered  again.  We  were  employed 
to-day  freeing  the  vessel  and  boats  from  snow  and  ice. 

Mr.  Sherman  still  travels  to  and  fro  between  the 
vessel  and  the  shore  to  take  his  observations,  though" 
he  does  so  at  the  risk  of  a  wet  jacket.  The  Esqui- 
maux men  manage  as  yet  to  get  out  to  the  schooner 
and  their  meals.  The  women  and  children  do  not 
venture. 


June  7. — Weather  quite  tine  to-day;  light  breeze 
from  north-west.  Mr.  Kumlein  was  off  with  the  small 
boat  collecting  specimens.  The  ice  has  closed  and 
shut  otf  his  passage  to  the  vessel.  At  6.30  p.  m.  he 
was  trying  to  haul  the  boat  over  the  ice  to  the  open 


III    ii 


WINTER  IN  CUxMBERLAND  GULF. 


137 


water  near  the  schooner.     We  were  occii[)ied  witli 
general  ship  work. 

June  8. — Rain  conuiienced  falling  this  niorning  and 
it  continued  all  day.  Some  of  the  Esquimaux  are 
sealing,  among  the  drifting  cakes  of  ice,  in  kyacks  and 
the  small  hoat.  Mr.  Ivumlein  shot  some  few  ducks 
and  sandpipers  and  a  glaiicus-gall  yesterday. 

June  9. — Clear  and  fine.  Rained  nearly  all  night. 
Thermometer  reads  plus  55°.  Mr.  Kumlein  is  off  for 
specimens,  and  some  few  of  the  Esquimaux  are  seal- 
ing to-day.  Nep-e-ken  l)rought  me  two  hurgomaster- 
gull's  eggs  last  night. 

June  10. — It  was  calm  and  quite  warm  in  the 
niorning.  Toward  evening  a  strong  hreeze  si)rang  up 
from  the  north-west.  Some  of  the  Esquimaux  are 
deer-hunting;  others  are  sealing.  Nep-e-ken  hi'ought 
one  brent-goose  to  the  vessel  this  evening.  It  is  the 
first  one  I  ever  saw  in  Cumberland  Gulf.  Nep-e-ken, 
however,  has  seen  them  here  before. 

Engaged  in  sawing  ice  to-day  to  clear  the  vessel. 
I  heard  water  running  freely  down  the  mountain  side 
yesterday  for  the  first  time  this  season.  Noticed  nu- 
merous burgomaster-gulls  and  ducks  around  the  pack 
or  broken  ice  outside  the  harbor.  There  are  indica- 
tions of  a  storm  this  evenino;. 


li 


L'^  -.  "■a.'jniiiyi'ir'a -msr. 


m 


138 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


I  : 


iji 


June  11.  —  Wind  quite  heavy  to-day  from  north- 
west. At  11.30  A.  M.  the  ice  to  the  west  of  the  schoon- 
er started  and  quickly  fouled  our  hawser.  It  contained 
many  acres,  and,  therefore,  pressed  the  vessel  heav- 
ily. Everything  was  prepared  for  just  such  an  occur- 
rence, however.  Bending  on  our  buoy  rope,  we  let 
the  cable  run,  and,  hoisting  jib  and  foresail,  we  were 
once  more  under  v/ay.  The  water  makes  from  the 
w^est  side  of  Annanatook  Harbor  to  the  north  shore 
in  a  semicircle.  There  is  orood  workins:  room  for  a 
vessel  while  north-west  winds  prevail,  as  they  drive  all 
loose  ice  down  the  gulf  until  it  meets  the  solid  barrier 
below.  Into  this  water  we  lay  under  short  sail  until 
the  ice  drifted  out  of  the  harbor,  and  then  we  returned 
to  our  anchorage.  The  vessel  is  light,  which  compelled 
us  to  work  under  short  .sail.  On  rounding  the  point 
to  return  to  the  anchoraije  we  found  it  necessarv  to  set 
the  mainsail.  It  was  reefed,  but  it  keeled  the  schoon- 
er until  the  lee  boats  were  in  the  water.  I  think  that 
in  some  of  the  squalls  the  wind  travelled  sixty  miles 
an  hour. 

Shortly  after  returning  to  our  anchorage  I  attempt- 
ed to  go  on  shore.  The  ice  in  the  inner  harbor  is 
quite  good  as  yet,  but  it  seems  I  found  a  weak  spot  in 
it,  for  I  got  a  cold  bath  before  reaching  the  shore. 

The  ice  down  the  gulf  appears  to  be  solid  and  firm. 
T  nuist  try  and  secure  the  schooner's  safety  as  soo!i  as 


ill 


WINTER  IX  CUMIiERLAND  (JULF. 


139 


the  weather  moderates.     There  is  too  much  current 
here;  hence  a  great  deal  of  heavy  drift  ice. 

June  12. — The  gale  still  continues,  and  it  is  hlowing 
very  heavy.  We  are  lying  l)y  one  anchor,  as  we  were 
unable  to  get  the  buoyed  one  last  evening.  The  ice 
in  the  north  section  of  the  harbor  still  holds.  The 
scientiiic  observations  are  still  kept  up.  It  is  only 
about  one  hundred  yards  from  the  vessel  to  the  fast 
ice,  which  still  remains  in  the  inner  harbor,  and  about 
three  hundred  yards  more  to  the  shore,  where  the 
observatory  is  situated.  By  manning  a  boat  strong 
we  can  pull  to  the  fast  ice,  land  on  it,  and  walk  to  the 
shore.  Although  the  wind  is  strong  the  sea  is  not 
rough.  The  wind  is  directly  otf  the  land,  and,  sur- 
rounded as  we  are  by  land  and  ice,  no  sea  can  rise. 

June  13. — We  have  still  a  strong  breeze  from  the 
north-west.  Everything  remains  about  the  same.  The 
ice  at  the  head  of  the  harbor  still  holds,  but,  fearimr 
It  might  come  down  upon  the  Florence  and  cause  her 
to  slip  from  her  only  anchor,  we  cut  or  sawed  a  dock 
in  the  ice  in  the  inner  harl)or  after  Ijreakfast  this  morn- 
ing, which  ice  still  holds  firm  and  strons^.  Bv  12  me- 
ridian  we  had  the  Florence  safe  in  the  dock.  I  do  not 
^-  think  that  the  drifting  ice  can  cause  any  trouble  here, 
as  we  he  in  a  snug  little  cul-de-sac,  and,  for  the  present, 
are  clear  of  drift  ice.    This  evening  there  is  very  little 


[ ' 


140 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


i    *,  l> 


h 


•U      'i 


wind,  but  the  weather  has  a  baleful,  sombre  ap[>ear- 
ance,  and  the  thermometer  is  still  inclined  downward. 
After  securing  the  schooner,  we  broke  out  the  hold 
and  stowed  back,  to  be  in  readiness  to  take  aboard 
some  fresh  water.  We  also  repaired  the  gaff  of  the 
mainsail,  which  we  found  badly  split  at  the  jaws. 

June  14. — Last  night  the  wind  came  on  very  sud- 
denly from  the  south-east,  bringmg  snow  and  sleet. 
This  morning  it  ceased  and  we  have  a  light  wind  from 
the  north-west,  and,  according  to  the  appearance  of 
the  sky,  a  promise  of  plenty  more.  Emphwed  to-day 
in  hauling  water  and  stowing  it,  preparatory  to  getting 
under  way.  It  will  be  necessary,  if  we  carr^'  natives 
and  dogs  to  the  coast  of  Greenland,  to  take  a  large 
supply  of  water.  Al-o-kee  and  Eg-e-low  arrived  from 
the  Kickerton  Islands  last  night.  They  report  that 
one  of  the  sealing  steamers  from  Scotland  has  entered 
the  gulf  for  whales,  having  failed  in  the  sealing. 

June  15. — Quite  a  breeze  last  night,  which  contin- 
ued up  to  3  o'clock  to-day.  Some  of  the  Esquimaux 
have  returned  from  deer-hunting.  They  killed  two 
deer;  two  that  were  wounded  escaped.  We  were  em- 
ployed to-day  scraping,  scouring,  and  washing  the 
schooner  preparatory  to  painting.  Early  this  morn-  ,■ 
ing,  when  the  breeze  was  the  strongest,  the  whole 
mass  of  ice  at  the  head  of  the  outer  harbor  gave  way 


WINTER  IN  CUMIJERLANU  UULF. 


141 


and  drifted  out.  We  would  have  luid  trouble  had  we 
remained  at  our  former  anchorage,  luit  in  tliis  quiet 
little  nook  we  are  safe,  at  least  for  the  present.  The 
wind  is  again  to  the  soutli-east  this  evening. 

June  16*.— Last  night  tlie  south-east  wind  l)rought 
sleet,  rain,  and  snow.  Tliis  morning  the  wind  was  to 
the  north-west.  In  tlie  afternoon  it  conmienced  to 
blow  hard,  with  snow  and  sleet.  We  certainlv  have 
bad  weather.  The  Esquimaux  returned  last  night  from 
duck-shooting,  bringing  some  few  (hicks.  We  are  pre- 
serving the  skins  for  foot-gear. 

June  17. — All  last  night  we  had  snow  and  sleet,  and 
I  think  at  times  it  might  have  been  called  rain.  We 
had  the  wind  from  about  every  quarter.  This  morn- 
ing the  wind  settled  in  the  north-west,  and  from  this 
quarter  it  continued  to  blow.  The  weather  is  so  un- 
settled that  we  cannot  do  anything.  We  have  prepared 
the  vessel  for  painting,  Init  cannot  paint  in  such  weather. 
The  Esquimaux  cannot  lumt,  nor  can  the  squaws  dry  or 
cure  skins. 

June  18. — All  kinds  of  weathei .  Last  nidit  the 
wind  turned  to  the  south  and  east.  We  have  had 
snow,  hail,  sleet,  and  rain.  Mr.  Kumlein,  with  a  na- 
tive, went  off  in  the  little  boat  and  brought  back  five 
ducks,  two  divers,  and  a  gull.    Nep-e-ken  also  shot  sev- 


l!l 


:  i 


W  i 


(1^ 


142'        THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 

eral  on  the  ice  close  to  tlie  schooner.  We  had  duck  for 
dinner,  whale-meiit  for  breakfast,  and  I  think  we  will 
have  lobster  for  hnich  —  canned,  however.  All  we 
needed  to  make  a  full  bill  of  fare  was  fog,  and  that  is 
coining  now. 

June  19. — Varietv  weather.  Last  nidit  we  ].  '. 
wind  from  the  sonth-east.  It  rained,  hailed,  and  blew 
stroi^g  until  early  morning,  when  it  let  go.  The  long- 
absent  sun  then  condescended  to  show  his  face  once 
more,  and,  as  if  to  make  up  for  his  neglect,  shone 
with  great  brilliancy  and  heat.  Taking  advantage  of 
this,  we  commenced  to  saw  the  scliooner  farther  into 
the  ice,  as  that  around  us  was  getting  rather  weak. 
Mr.  Sherman  prepared  his  camera  to  tiike  photographs 
of  surroundinsf  scencrv,  and  Mr.  Kundein  took  the 
small  boat,  two  Esquimaux,  guns  and  anununition, 
and  launched  forth  on  a  day's  hunt.  Shortly  after  12 
meridian  the  heavens  became  darkened  and  it  befican 
to  rain.  The  camera  was  abandoned,  work  on  the 
vessel  ceased,  and  all  sought  shelter  except  the  hunt- 
ers, who  were  far  awav  and  were  soaked  with  rain. 

Kuck-oo-jug  started  for  the  Kickertons  yesterday, 
and  I  fear  he  will  not  be  able  to  get  back,  as  I  think 
the  ice  down  th<^  gulf  has  given  wa3%  and  all  we  need 
is  a  good  northwester  to  drive  it  out.  The  present 
wind  from  the  south-east  is  holding  it  up.  Nep-e-ken 
and  Ete-tun  shot  two  oog-jooks  this  morning.    I  have 


WINTER  IX  CUMBKULAND  GULF. 


14:3 


secured  one  of  the  Inxlies  as  a  spociiiien  for  Kuiiilein. 
Tlie  skins  will  do  for  moccasin  soles. 


. 


June  20. — The  rain  continued  until  10..^0  to-dav, 
when  the  sun  again  shone  for  a  sh  ^rt  time.  At  me- 
ridian the  sky  again  hecame  clouded  iind  the  wind 
veered  from  the  south  to  south-east,  and  there  it  re- 
mains. 

Last  evening,  at  8.30  o'clock,  the  whole  of  the  ice 
in  the  inner  harhor  made  an  effort  to  force  its  wav 
out  of  the  north  passage.  As  the  Florence  is  docked 
into  this  ice,  it  created  for  a  time  some  little  uneasi- 
ness, hut  the  attempts  of  the  ice  to  move  out  were 
futile.  The  passage  was  too  small,  and,  after  forcing 
its  way  some  seventy  yards,  it  stopped. 

The  Esquimaux  shot  anotlier  oog-jook  this  after- 
noon. Mr.  Sherman  has  heen  forced  to  give  u[>  his 
ohservations  at  the  ohservatory  on  account  of  the  had 
state  of  the  ice.  lie  continues  them,  however,  on 
board. 

I  have  been  sounding  up  the  lagoon  leading  to  the 
nortlMvest  to-dav,  endeavorinsj  to  find  some  safer  an- 
chorage  for  the  vessel,  where  she  would  he  clear  of 
drift  ice,  but  none  was  found.  We  are  still  holdins; 
on  to  our  dock  in  the  ice,  but  we  mav  have  to  let  i^o 
at  anv  moment.  The  ice  barrier  between  here  and 
the  Kickertons  has  given  way,  but,  instead  of  going 
down  the  gulf,  it  has  gone  to  the  head,  having  been 


I«^t; 


I 


144 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLOEENCE. 


i 

it; 


t^v 


% 


forced  up  by  the  southerly  winds.     There  are  only  two 
small  islands  between 
vessel  to  protect  her. 


small  islands  between  the  drifting  mass  of  ice  and  the 


June  21. — The  wind  continued  from  the  south  and 
cast  during  the  night,  holding  the  broken  floes  hard 
pressed  against  the  little  islands  which  protect  the  ves- 
sel. Earlv  this  niornins:  the  wind  came  out  from 
the  north,  with  heavy  snow-squalls.  I  was  asleep  in 
my  berth  at  the  time,  but  the  wild  roaring  of  the 
wind  would  have  awakened  Kip  Van  Winkle  had  he 
been  asleep  here.  I  got  up  and  went  on  deck,  when 
a  scene  of  wild  confusion  presented*  itself  The  ice 
outside  of  the  harbor,  feeling  the  force  of  the  wind 
and  tide,  which  latter  was  on  the  ebb,  was  moving 
southward  with  great  rapidity,  the  heavier  and  strong- 
er masses  rushing  on  over  the  lighter  and  weaker,  and 
in  their  headlong  course  grinding  them  to  atoms.  The 
noise  accompanying  this,  the  wild  roaring  of  the  wind, 
and  the  flying  snow  made  up  an  awe-inspiring  scene. 
The  harbor  ice  soon  commenced  moving,  this  time  try- 
ing to  force  its  way  out  of  the  south-east  passagu,  but 
it  also  proved  too  narrow,  and  the  Ice  brought  up  hard 
against  the  land  on  both  sides  of  the  passage,  and  there 
it  remains,  and  we  remain  with  it,  but  not  in  an  envi- 
able situation ;  for  we  are  surrounded  by  small  islands 
and  reefs,  upon  which  the  heavy  ice  may  press  the 
vessel  at  any  moment.     However,  we  have  been  at 


, 


i;  ^-  ^i^ 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


145 


o 
e 


work  to-day,  and  hope  to  prevent  any  snch  termina- 
tion of  the  "  preliniituirv  Arctic  expedition."  We  have 
now  abont  fifty  yards  of  ice  oft"  one  end,  or  fiftv  vards 
of  scarf  which  set  ach'ift  a})ont  an  acre  of  ice,  and  this 
gives  us  a  chance  to  haul  the  Florence  clear  of  (hin- 
der. 

This  evening  the  weather  is  moderate.  Through 
all  the  turmoil  to-day,  we  have  prepared  our  boats  tor 
whaling.  The  Esquimaux  and  myself  sawed  ice  and 
the  crew  o^ot  the  boats  readv. 


June  22. —  Yesterday  evening  our  north-west  wind 
entirely  left  us.  The  tide  was  on  the  Hood,  and  tlie 
piece  of  ice  in  which  we  were  docked  commenced 
moving  toward  the  north-west  shore,  carrvin<r  the 
vessel  into  very  shoal  water.  We  Just  slipped  oiu* 
lines  in  time  and  towed  clear.  Towiui^  out  into  the 
outer  harbor,  we  dropped  anchor  in  nine  fathoms  of 
water,  and  there  lav  throuc^h  tlie  \\\<j\\i.  Earlv  tliis 
morning  the  wind  came  again  from  the  south  and  east 
and  I  made  an  anchorage  some  hundred  vards  i'ur- 
ther  in  shore,  hoping  thereby  to  get  out  of  the  strengtli 
of  the  current  and  thus  ko  ^p  clear  of  the  drift  ice. 
The  wind  has  been  light  a^l  (hiy,  and  tlie  sky  has  been 
overcast.  I  was  on  the  hill  to-day  and  examined  the 
ice  to  the  south.  There  was  nothini?  to  be  seen  but  a 
heavy  mass  of  broken  floes,  interspersed  here  and 
there  with  a  lonely  space  of  water.     The  Hoes  are 


14G 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLOKENCE. 


ii!         \ 


f  :?    ' 


l(: 


again  pressing  hard  upon  the  little  ishmtls  which  pro- 
tect us. 

June  23.— Last  evening,  at  10  o'clock,  the  inner- 
harbor  ice  threatened  our  Httle  vessel  a«:ain.  The 
wind  came  from  tlie  south,  and  the  tlood-tide  was  in 
its  strength  when  the  ice  attempted  to  force  its  way 
out  thVough  the  north  passage  into  the  outer  harbor 
where  the  schooner  lay.  We  prepared  everything  for 
its  reception  as  best  we  could  and  waited.  It  jammed 
between  the  points  of  the  two  islands,  and  as  the  ebb- 
tide is  making  it  must  remain  there  till  the  next  iiood. 
At  5  A.  M.  it  will  l)e  low  water.  At  4  I  examined 
the  situation.  It  was  blowiuij^  a  (j:ood  breeze  from  the 
south,  witli  occasional  squalls  from  the  south-east,  and 
rain.  It  was  not  favorable.  The  attem[)t  to  move 
a  vessel  a«:ainst  a  strong'  breeze  and  tide,  with  no  room 
to  work  ill  except  with  lines,  is  not  a  pleasant  task. 
Running  a  line,  liowever,  to  the  weather  point  of  the 
ice,  we  tripped  our  anchor,  and  by  hard  hauling  drew 
the  vessel  up  to  that  point.  We  had  just  succeeded 
in  doing  this  when  the  wliole  mass  started.  Running 
a  line  to  the  small  island  on  which  it  had  Ijeen  jam- 
med, we  trusted  to  the  schooner's  strength,  swung 
clear  of  the  troublesome  mass,  and  let  it  pass  by,  \s'hi('h 
it  soon  did.  I  was  determined  to  get  the  schooner  into 
the  inner  harbor  if  possible,  and  for  that  purpose  now 
ran  some  three  hundred  and  tiftv  fathoms  of  line  in 


I-  i  >: 

^11     : 


^CttC. 


WINTER  IX  CUxMBERLAND  GULF. 


147 


near  the  observatory,  ami  tlion,  slackin-  both  lines 
brought  the  vessel  down  over  the  l)nove(l  anchor' 
which  was  secured.  The  Esquimaux  now  came  on' 
board,  which  gave  us  strength,  and  bv  dint  of  hard 
hauhng  we  managed  to  get  the  FJorencc  into  the  inner 
harbor  hy  12  o'clock,  when  we  had  breakfast.  The 
weatlier  is  most  wretched. 

Tlie  lieavj  floes  are  piled  hard  up  against  the  little 
island,  making  it  impossible  to  go  out  of  the  liarbor 
even  \x\\\\  a  kyack  or  boat. 

June  24.— Cloudy,  dreary  weather.     This  mornin<v 
early  we  were  compelled  to  shift  our  andiorao,.  a-aiir 
as  a  large  piece  of  ice  threatened  totbul  the  schooner' 
It  has  been  cabn  most  of  t]i.>  dav.     As  lor  the  ^nn 
we  scarcely  know  tlierc  is  one,   it  so  seldom  shines* 
Shortly  alter  dinner  —  ;;  .(>  y,  M.__.the  wind   breezed 
trom    tlie   north-west   and    rain   hea-an   fallin--       Mr 
Kumlein  went  out  to-day  with  ^ome  KsquiM.aux  <m  a 
bird  and  egg  hunt.     As  we  are  andioivd  close  to  the 
observatory,  Mr.  Sherman  has  resumed  his  observa- 
tions.    There  is  no  apprecial)le  change  in  (he  condition 
or  tlie  lieavy  floes  outside. 

June  25.— Kain  fell  till  about  10  o'clock  last  ni<dit 
It  has  been  cloudy,  damp,  and  chilly.    The  mists  hang 
low  on  the  mountains  and  the  weathei-  has  a  dreary^ 
sondjre  aspect.     The   ice  has  moved  down   the  crnlf 


]"■ 


'Pi  t 

:M       'I 


148 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


some  little  distance,  giving  the  boats  a  chance  to  move 
out  of  the  harbor.  Xep-e-ken  has  taken  advantage  of 
this,  and  gone,  with  nine  others,  bird  and  egg  hunting. 
Mr.  Kumlein  l)rought  back  a  few  ducks  and  about 
two  hundred  eggs  from  yesterday's  hunt.  lie  also 
])rought  back  quite  a  hole  in  the  boat,  caused  l)y  the 
premature  discharge  of  his  gun.  He  did  not  return 
till  6  o'clock  this  morning.  Of  course  we  are  still  at 
work  trvinsi:  to  cure  and  (h'v  skins,  of  which  wo  have 
a  fair  quantity,  yet  not  as  many  as  I  had  hoped  to  get. 
We  have  a  light  breeze  from  the  south  this  evening. 


tin 


June  26. — Light  westerly  wind,  accompanied  by 
snow  and  sleet.  The  southerlv  wind  held  until  6 
o'clock  A.  M.,  tilling  the  har1x)r  with  ice.  With  the 
change  of  wind,  however,  the  ice  all  disappeared.  Ete- 
tun  shot  and  secured  two  oog-jooks  yesterday  evening. 
As  the  skin  of  the  oog-jook  is  the  only  one  suitable  for 
moccasin  soles  in  this  latitude,  I  am  very  nuich  grat- 
ified to  get  them.  We  were  employed  to-day  taking 
water  on  board.  If  this  wind  holds  it  will  set  the  pack- 
ice  down  the  arulf,  and  we  will  then  <i:et  under  wav. 


June  27. — "We  have  it!"  Southerly  wind,  which 
is  blowino;  strons;,  with  sleet  and  rain.  The  ice  is 
again  hard  packed  on  the  land.  Nep-e-ken  and  his 
party,  who  are  off  egg,  bird,  and  seal  hunting,  cannot 
get  here  until  there  is  a  change  in  the  wind.     There 


WINTER  IN  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


149 


is  quite  a  swell  heaving  from  the  south-oast  uf)  the 
guU'— a  certain  sign  that  there  is  no  pack-ice  at  the 
mouth.  The  weather  is  fearfully  had,  and  we  are  get- 
ting mouldy  from  the  long-continued  dampness. 

• 
June  28.— The  weather  was  much  better  to-day. 
There  was  a  light  south-east  wind,  and  it  was  warm 
and  sunny.  The  wind  holds  the  ice  still  pressed  fast 
on  the  land.  It  lessens  our  prospect  of  getting  a  whale 
this  summer.  We  should  be  out  now  looking  for  one, 
but  we  cannot  go  on  account  of  ice.  Xep-e-ken  and 
party  have  not  arrived,  nor  can  they  get  here  until 
there  is  a  change  in  the  wind.  The  squaws  were  act- 
ively ht  work  to-day  preparing  skins.  The  air  was 
about  calm  this  evening. 

June  29.— Cloudy,  with  indications  of  rain.  The 
wind  is  to  the  south-east  and  the  ice  still  jamiiied  hard 
upon  the  land.  I  see  no  prospect  of  a  change,  at  least 
ibr  some  time  to  come.  The  Esquimaux  shot  throe 
more  oog-jooks  yesterday,  and  we  have  secured  the 
skins. 


June  30. — Cloudy  and  calm.  The  ice  remains  un- 
changed. Nep-e-ken  and  party  managed  to  reach  the 
vessel  to-day  by  hauling  their  boat  over  the  ice.  When 
they  had  approached  within  a  mile  of  the  schooner  a 
sleigh  was  sent  to  their  assistance.    This  morning  sev- 


150 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


I  J 


eral  boats  were  discovered  on  the  ice  toward  the  north 
shore.  They  were  being  hanled  over  the  broken  floes, 
now  and  then  finding  a  little  lake  of  water  into  which 
they  were  launched.  The  party  I'eached  here  at  2  p. 
M.,  and  I  found  it  composed  of  Captain  Roach  and 
several  men  from  the  Kickerton  station.  Thev  left 
the  station  hist  Thursdav,  and  are  lookins:  for  whales. 
I  hope  for  a  north  or  north-west  wind  within  twenty- 
four  hours. 


II 


July  1. — Calm  and  foggy  the  fore  part  of  the  day, 
and  the  latter  part  we  had  a  light  breeze  from  the 
west,  whicli  lasted  only  a  few  hours.  In  the  evening 
the  wind  came  fresh  from  the  south-east,  with  fog  and 
heavy  rain.  I  can  see  no  hope  of  esca[)e  for  an  in- 
definite time.  Roach  and  party  are  encamped  on  the 
ice  in  the  little  bay  to  the  south-west  of  the  harljor. 


July  2. — Strong  breeze  from  the  south-east,  with 
fog  and  rain.     The  harbor  is  full  of  broken  ice. 

July  3. — Rain  fell  in  torrents  all  night.  This  morn- 
ing the  sky  was  overcast  and  a  fog  prevailed.  The 
breeze  was  not  quite  as  strong  as  it  was. yesterday. 
This  evening  there  were  indications  of  more  rain. 
There  has  been  no  change  in  the  ice.  The  harbor  is 
still  packed  full.    The  Esquimaux  come  and  go  upon  it 


WTXTER  IX  CUMBERLAND  GULF. 


151 


between  tlie  vessel  and  shore.     The  temperature  was 
somewhat  cooler  tliis  ev'enui"'. 


July  4. — Rain  commenced  lallino^  at  10  o'ch)ck  last 
night  and  continued  until  6  this  morning,  when  tlie 
wind  veered  to  the  west.  All  dav  the  wind  was  lio-ht 
and  the  sky  overcast.  The  rain-clouds  humr  lieavilv 
and  tln'eateningly  over  us.  Tliis  evening  tlie  wind 
breezed  freshly  iVoni  the  west  and  rain  fell.  The 
harbor,  whicli  has  been  so  packed  with  ice  that  it  was 
almost  impossible  to  reach  the  shore  with  a  boat,  was 
quite  clear  at  6  o'clock  p.  m.  This  is  so,  at  least,  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  schooner,  and  we  can  reach  the 
shore  once  more.  Two  houi's  before  this  tlie  male 
Esquimaux  came  to  the  vessel  over  the  broken  pieces 
of  ice.  The  women  and  children,  however,  did  not 
venture.  Roach  is  still  detained  here  by  the  ice,  but 
if  this  wind  holds  I  hope  to  sec  water  in  the  moi'nint>*, 
which  will  free  him  and  us  also. 


152 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


■i    '.' 


ii 


^n 


gnvt  orJuvd. 

Annanatook  to   Disco. 

July  5. — Last  evening,  after  a  contest  of  an  hour  or 
two  between  the  soutli-east  and  westerly  winds,  the 
south-easter  succumbed.  We  had  quite  a  good  breeze 
during  the  night.  This  morning  it  was  light,  but, 
notwithstanding  this,  I  concluded  to  get  under  way. 
There  was  some  little  difficulty  in  getting  the  Esqui- 
maux, their  dogs,  kyacks,  and  all  their  traps  on  board; 
bu<"  this  was  accomplished  by  3  o'clock  p.  m.,  and  then 
we  started.  Our  iirst  attempt  was  to  get  down  the 
south  shore,  but  at  the  Gloucester  Islands,  about  twelve 
miles  from  the  harbor,  we  met  with  ice  packed  hard 
aii'ainst  the  land.  Turnins;  from  that,  we  headed  for 
the  north  shore,  which  we  managed  to  reach  a  little 
l)elow  American  Harbor,  where  we  were  again  stopped 
by  the  ice.  We  then  attempted  to  enter  American 
Harbor,  l)ut  the  wind  left  us,  and  although  we  soon 
had  two  boats  towing,  the  strong  current  refused  to  let 
us  enter.  So  at  11  o'clock  p.  m.,  the  time  of  the  pres- 
ent writing,  we  are  dodging  about  in  the  ice. 

Julv  6. — Shortly  after  midnicrht  last  nio:ht  the  west- 
erly  wind  died  away,  leaving  us  becalmed  until  morn- 
ing. This  morning,  at  6  o'clock,  the  wind  came  from 
the  south-east.    As  the  weather  has  had  a  threatening 


i' 


ANNANATOOK  TO  DISCO. 


158 


appearance  during  the  last  twenty-tour  hours,  I  con- 
cluded that  the  most  prudent  thing  tor  us  to  do  would 
he  to  make  a  harhor  as  soon  as  possil)le.  American 
Harhor  was  then  ahout  twelve  miles  oti:",  and  was  hy 
all  a[>pearances  free  from  ice.  We  endeavored  once 
more  to  enter  this  harhor  and  headed  for  it.  Rain 
soon  hegan  falling,  the  breeze  freshened,  and  the  ice 
to  the  south  of  us  was  coming  up  before  the  wind. 
We  pressed  on  all  canvas,  and,  in  spite  of  the  strong 
currents,  we  reached  an  anchorage  in  the  harbor  at 
10.30  A.  M.  The  water  is  very  deep  here — twenty-tive 
fathoms,  with  mud  bottom.  Although  the  weatber  is 
bad,  we  nuumed  a  boat  this  afternoon,  and  Messrs. 
Kundein  and  Sherman  wGut  to  the  shore,  the  former 
to  collect  specimens,  and  the  latter  to  try,  in  the  storm, 
to  '^et  some  photographs  of  the  place.  Kain  fell  heav- 
ilv  all  dav  and  the  wind  this  evening  blew  strong.  It 
is  almost  impossible,  with  the  annoyance  of  the  Esqui- 
maux children,  the  howling  of  the  dogs,  and  an  unset- 
tled mind,  to  get  any  rest.  The  babies  cry,  the  dogs 
howl,  and  the  puppies  cry,  all  in  chorus. 


j^ly  7. — Until  2  o'clock  a.  m.  the  gale  continued 
with  fearful  violence.  It  was  just  as  nmch  as  we  could 
do  to  breast  the  storm  when  walking  from  aft  forward 
*  on  the  vessel's  deck.  Kain  poured  down  in  torrents. 
At  9  o'clock  this  evening  we  canted  the  schooner's 
head  in  close  to  the  island  which  shelters  her  from  the 


154 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


6'     K 
V 


fnrv  of  the  storm  {ind  drit'tinoj  ice,  and  let  sfo  the  biii 
anclior.  Fortniisitelv  no  lieavv  ice  tbuled  the  vossel, 
iiearlv  all  of  it  sweeping?  some  tiftv  vards  to  the  east- 
ward  of  where  slie  lav.  At  2  o'clock  tlie  wind  al)ated. 
All  hands  wore  called  and  the  biii^  anchor  was  hove 
np,  to  prevent  its  f'onlins^  with  the  other  anchor. 

To-diiy  we  have  westerly  wind,  with  rain,  hail,  and 
sleet  at  times.  Mr.  Shermaii  persisted  in  stoppin<^  on 
shore  last  night  to  measure  the  tides  and,  if  possible, 
to  do  somethinsc  else  in  his  line.  This  mornin<i;  I  sent 
a  l)oat  for  him.  lie  says  he  managed  to  get  the  tides, 
and,  judging  by  his  appearance,  I  tliiidv  also  one  of 
the  worst  soakin2:s  he  ever  had. 


' 


Julv  8. — Dunns:  the  nio;ht  the  wind  hauled  to  the 
south-east,  and  was  accompanied  by  rain,  snow,  and 
sleet.  At  12  meridian  to-day  the  sun  attempted  to 
shine,  and  did  actually  appear  for  a  few  minutes,  and 
then  vanished.  In  spite  of  the  bad  weather,  I  con- 
cluded to  take  a  boat  and  an  Esquimaux  boat's-crew 
and  o^o  down  to  see  if  there  was  anvthinoj  left  of  the 
whale,  and  if  not  to  bring  back  our  canvas  tent,  cut- 
ting spades,  tackle,  &c.,  that  were  carried  there  in  the 
spring.  We  started  at  10  a.  m.,  and  after  a  good  long 
pull,  hauling  over  ice,  and  getting  thoroughly  wet,  we 
succeeded  in  reachins:  within  about  ibur  hundred  vards 
of  the  carcass,  where  we  were  stopped  by  such  ice  as 
one  could  neither  haul  over  nor  pull  through  without 


♦ 


1 


* 


u 


ANNANATOOK  TO  DISCO. 


155 


running  tlie  risk  of  a  sloven  boat  or  a  wet  jacket.  I 
was  m  no  lininor  for  cither  of  these  aUernatives,  and 
so  we  sto[)pe(l.  We  could  see  tlie  earcass  and  cask. 
They  were  still  tliere ;  hut  whetlier  there  is  juiv  oil 
left  in  the  bluhher,  I  cannot  tell.  We  put  ai)out  and 
started  for  the  sclioouer.  We  had  considerahle  diili- 
eulty  in  navigatin<^^  tln-ougli  the  ice  to  open  water. 
We  reached  the  vessel  at  9  o'clock  p.  M.Jiaving  picked 
up  on  tlie  way  a  few  ducks,  a  seal,  and  a  wliitc  whale, 
which  latter  we  found  dead.  Mr.  Kundein,  wlio  was 
with  us,  wished  to  save  tlie  hones  of  the  whale  for 
specimens  ;  so  I  had  it  towed  to  a  piece  of  ice,  and, 
hauling  it  out  of  the  water,  the  Es(piiniaux  soon  dis- 
sected it.  We  tlien  [)Ut  in  the  boat  su(;li  parts  of  the 
remains  as  we  wished  to  presei've,  and  proceeded  on 
our  way  to  the  schooner.  The  ice  is  vevy  much  wast- 
ed, and  it  cannot  interfere  with  us  mucli  lonu'er. 


July  9. — We  ha\e  a  fresh  breeze  from  the  south-east 
to-day.  The  weather  is  cloudv  and  a  i'ixj:  hamj-s  heavily 
over  the  land.  Mr.  Sherman  is  on  shore,  trviiiir  to  ascer- 
tain  the  elevation  of  some  of  the  pi'ominent  mountains. 
Mr.  Kumlein  is  also  on  shore,  cleaning  and  preparing 
his  white-whale  specimen.  The  Esquimaux  are  assist- 
ino^  him.  We  on  board  are  orettino;  water  and  l)reak- 
ing  out  [provisions, — enough,  I  hope,  to  last  until  we 
get  clear  of  the  Esquimaux ;  and  by  getting  out  enough 
provisions  now^  we  need  not  encroach  upon  their  do- 


I 


I* 


i^? 


156 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THT^  FLORENCE. 


main  until  we  arrive  at  Disco  Island.  The  weather  is 
so  very  l)ad  that  I  fear  some  of  the  sldns  which  could 
not  be  dried  will  spoil. 

July  10. — Cloudy  and  foggy  over  the  land.  A  fresh 
breeze  prevails  from  the  south-east.  Eain  fell  by  spells 
all  night.  There  is  considerable  ice  outside  of  the  har- 
bor. Mr.  Kundein  and  some  of  the  Esquimaux  were 
otf  gathering  specimens  to-day,  and  Mr.  Hherrnan  was 
engaged  taking  photographs  of  the  surrounding  coun- 
try from  the  deck  of  the  schooner.  If  there  is  an 
opportunity,  we  will  get  under  way  again  to-night  or 
tc -morrow. 


July  11. — Cloud}';  occasional  showers  of  rain.  All 
the  morning  the  wind,  was  light  and  variable.  This 
afternoon  we  had  a  hght  breeze  from  the  north.  The 
ice  outside  of  the  harbor  is  in  much  the  same  condition. 
Some  of  the  skins  which  we  have  heretofore  been 
unable  to  dry,  and  which  we  had  barreled  up,  were 
found  this  morning  to  be  spoiling.  I  therefore  sent 
them  ashore,  and  the  squaws  with  them,  to  dry  them, 
if  possible.  I  fear  it  will  be  difficult  to  do  so  if  the 
prevailing  showers  continue. 

The  Esquimaux  are  oft'  sealing  in  their  boats.  They 
will,  if  possible,  before  their  return,  ascertain  the  posi- 
tion of  the  ice  to  the  south-east  of  us.  But  the  wind 
hangs  to  the  south-east,  and  that  is  dead  ahead.     We 


.P' 


m  \ 


ANNANATOOK  TO  PI?CO. 


'   157 


have  another  man  down  with  a  sore  hand.  We  w^orc 
employed  to-day  gettin<;-  some  fresh  water;  with  the 
Esquimaux  and  dogs,  we  use  it  very  fast. 

jiily  12.— (Jnite  clear  to-day.  Our  northerly  wind 
yesterday  lasted  al)out  an  huur;  then  it  hauled  to  the 
south-east  and  In-ought  rain.  It  did  not  have  any  a[)- 
preciahle  effect  on  the  ice  outside.  1  sent  a  hoat  to 
the  pohit  at  which  tlie  whale  lies  to  bring  back  all  our 
gear  remaining  there.  As  it  is  getting  late  in  the  sea- 
son we  will  have  no  time  to  si)are,  and  will  therefore 
have  to  leave  at  the  first  o])portunity. 

The  Esquimaux  shot  two  more  oog-jooks  yesterday. 
The  squaws  are  at  work  on  the  shore  drying  the  skins. 
For  a  wonder,  it  does  not  rain  to-day.  AVe  had  a  light 
breeze  from  the  south,  and  the  air  is  dark  and  heavy 
down  the  gulf,  as  if  another  storm  was  close  ui)on  us. 
The  ice  outside  is  merely  a  shell.  With  a  fair  wind 
for  a  few  hours  we  would  be  free.  The  boat  returned 
from  the  whale  at  4  o'clock  this  afternoon.  The  crew 
report  considerable  water  below.  We  will  try  in  the 
morning  to  break  throagh  the  ice  be  ween  the  vessel 
and  open  water.  We  have  quite  a  number  of  skins 
on  shore  drying. 

July  13.— Clear  and  fine.  This  morning  at  five 
o'clock  all  hands  were  called  to  get  under  way.  It 
was  calm,  but  the  tide  was  at  the  flood,  and  I  intended 


158 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


'W 


m 


to  tiiko  tlie  strong  eblj-tide,  and,  with  the  iiid  of  the 
freshet,  get  a  good  ofhng  before  tlie  return  tide.  The 
half-cured  skins  and  the  dogs  were  soon  on  hoard,  we 
tripped  our  anchor,  and,  with  the  aid  of  ])oats,  soon 
cleared  the  harbor.  On  o-ettino;  w^^ll  oft*  shore  a  li«:ht 
west  wind  rendered,  tlie  use  of  l)oats  no  longer  neces- 
sary, and  thev  were  hoisted.  A¥e  went  alon"-  finely. 
The  water  was  as  smooth  as  a  mirror.  We  steered 
directly  for  Xew  Xoryion,  on  the  soi'th  side  of  the  crulf 
and  aVxnit  ninety  miles  distant.  As  we  ap]»roached 
this  place  we  found  it  surrounded  by  ice,  and  wiiile 
workiuij;  throu<T!:h  this  we  heard  several  firuns  fir»_*  in 
shore.  We  stood  in  the  direction  of  the  reports,  and 
soon  saw  two  boats  comino*.  The^'  came  alonijcside, 
and  proyed  to  contain  crews  of  Esquinniux  \yho  had 
been  in  tlie  service  of  the  Scotch  durin^r  tlie  last  ^ear. 
r  soon  o'ot  the  information  that  they  were  off  on  a 
deer-hunt.  a!id  that  the  Esquimaux  who  had  promised 
to  2:0  with  me  to  the  coast  of  Greenland  had  <i;one 
deer-hunting  seyei'al  days  ago.  I  endeayored  to  pre- 
vail upon  some  of  these  to  accoinpany  me,  l)ut  they 
would  not  listen  to  it.  I  now  paid  off  and  left  two 
Esquimaux  families  that  we  had  tak('n  from  Niantilic 
to  Annanatook  last  fall.  This  leaves  me  Xep-e-ken 
and  his  family,  Ete-tun  and  his  family,  Chunnny,  and 
Al-o-kee  —  four  men,  two  squaws,  and  four  children. 
Alter  getting  clear  oF  these  Esquimaux  wv.  innne- 
diately  bore  up  for  the  Kickertons,  then  about  fifty 


1 


i 
I* 

I 


ANNANATOOK  TO  DISCO. 


150 


miles  distant.  At  12  o'clock  niidniglit  we  had  no 
wind.  At  12  o'clock  midday  on  the  14th  tliere  was 
still  no  wind,  and  one  hoat  was  ont  towinii;.  We  have 
not  force  enon^'h  to  man  two  l)oats.  Kickerton  was 
at  this  tinie  alxmt  el.u-ht  miles  oif.  I  conid  see  no 
vessel  in  the  harbor. 

Julv  15. — Clear  and  tine.  Yesterdav  wc  mana^'cd 
to  reach  an  anchorage  at  Kickcrron  IslaiMl  hy  dint  of 
hard  rowing,  assisted  a  little  l)y  titful  winds.  Here  I 
heard  from  Mr.  Meech,  who  has  charge  of  the  Scotch 
station  now,  that  the  vessels  have  ah  left  for  home,  and 
that  Captain  Koacli  has  l)rokcn  up  the  Aniericaii  sta- 
tion hy  order  of  Mr.  Winiams.  of  New  London  ;  also 
that  he  and  his  crew  liavc  gone  home  hy  way  ol' Scot- 
land. Captain  Roach  left  me  tw(»  tine  sleighs  and 
some  jaw-l)ones  of  wliales.  to  be  nsed  in  making  other 
sleiu'hs;  also  [)aint,  kerosene  oil,  varnish,  and  a  signal 
lantern.  Had  we  reached  her<^  a  few  days  ago  we 
conld  have  i)rocured  (pfite  an  addition  to  onr  store  of 
skins.  The  Scotcn  vessels  ha\e  all  failed  in  the  wlial- 
ing  this  season.  Two  ha\-e  g*)t  nothing;  one  ship  has 
one  whale  and  another  two.  We  are  actively  at  work 
ii-ettin*''  evervtliing  in  oimIim'  [\)V  a  tinal  stai't  to  the  coast 
of  Cilreenland.  1  sent  a  number  of  skins  on  ^-lioi'e  this 
morninu'  to  be  cleaned  and  dried.    They  were  spoiling. 


July  It).— Cloudy  and  i'oggy-     Vesterilay  a'fternoon 


160 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


rain  commenced  falling.  The  skin -drying  had,  of 
course,  to  ])e  abandoned.  We  were  employed  to-day 
preparing  a  place  in  the  vessePs  hold  for  the  Esqui- 
maux to  live  in  during  the  passage  to  Greenland. 
Kain  fell  in  the  latter  part  of  the  day.  A  strong  wind 
from  the  south-east  prevailed.  It  was  my  intention 
to  get  under  way  this  evening,  but  I  concluded  to 
remain  here  until  there  was  a  favorable  chanfj^e  in  the 
weather.  With  the  present  weather  we  could  make 
no  headway. 

July  17. — Cloudy,  with  light,  variable  wind.  Tins 
morning  we  conmienced  to  gat  the  Esquimaux  and 
doers  on  board  for  a  start.  Bv  1  o'clock  i\  m.  this 
was  accomplished  and  we  ijcot  under  wav.  On  ijettinir 
outside  of  the  harbor  we  found  the  whid  verv  lii^ht 
from  the  south,  scarcely  stronii^  enoiijjrh  to  afford  steer- 
age-way.  At  the  Kickerton  Islands  we  got  an  addition 
of  one  native,  three  squaws,  and  two  children  to  our 
crew.  We  have  now  five  men,  five  squaws,  and  five 
children  on  board,  and  I  think  that  will  be  enouirh. 
We  have  also  nearlv  thirty  doi>:s,  with  sleds^es,  <fcc. 
We  are  now  bound  for  Niantilic,  to  get  souic  skins 
left  for  me  bv  Tes-e-wane,  the  native  with  whom  we 
left  the  trade  last  fall. 

July  18. — The  weather  remained  calm  until  D 
o'clock  last  eveninc:.    Then  we  got  a  liij^ht  breeze  from 


• 


5qni- 


ANNANATOOK  TO  DISCO. 


101 


the  sontli-sontli-cast,  almost  diroftly  alioad,  as  Niantilic 
is  soLitli  of  tlio  Xickertons.  The  bivezc  lasted  until  12 
•midnight,  when  it  died  awav,  leavinir  ns  becahned  in 
a  thick  fog.  Tliis  morning,  at  !)  o'elock,  the  fog  lifted, 
and  at  12  noon  we  were  favored  with  another  hii:ht 
breeze  from  the  same  quarter  as  tlie  one  last  night. 


.Julv  10.-— Very  fine  weather.  We  mananced  to 
reach  Blacklead  Island,  five  nfdcs  from  Xiantilic,  at 
8  o'clock  this  morning.  I  took  a  l)()at  and  an  Esqui- 
maux crew  and  W(Mit  on  shore  to  allow  the  Esquimaux 
to  have  a  talk  with  their  friends  and  relatives.  We 
l)ade  them  good-by  and  returned  to  the  Florence.  At 
4  o'clock  r.  M.  we  set  all  sail,  haNinii"  a  rnxx]  Itreezo 
from  the  north-west,  and  stood  rjown  tlie  gulf  At  ') 
p.  M.  we  were  abreast  of  Leo[)()ld  anil  Coburg  IsUmd, 
off  Cape  Mercy.  There  is  some  little  ice  and  a  num- 
l)er  of  bergs,  but  nothing  as  yet  :o  sto[)  our  way.  Tlie 
weather  is  delightful.  It  is  briglit  and  sunny,  witli  a 
good  strong  breeze.  Mr.  Kundcin  is  now  sketching 
the  ca[)e,  a  very  bold,  time,  weather,  and  ice  worn 
headland,  in  latitude  {'A""  50'  north,  longitude  b"P  80' 
west. 


July  20. — AVe  had  fine  weather  and  liglit  variable 
winds  during  IIk;  night.     At  7  o'clock  A.  M,  we  dis- 
covered  a  bear  ainona;  the  fioatinu:  i«'e-fioe^.     It   was 
soon  dispatched  and  on  l»oar(h  and  it  [)roved.  to  be 
11 


162 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


I 
f    ! 

n  ^ 

if  i 


quite  a  large  one.  To-day  we  had  wind  from  tlie 
south.  At  12  meridip.n  the  weather  was  very  fine, 
with  the  barometer  inclined  downward.  I  think  at  12 
we  were  nearly,  if  not  entirely,  clear  of  the  driftins: 
floes  of  ice.  Some  of  them  are  very  heavy,  and,  hav- 
ing to  force  our  way  through  a  narrow  stream,  last 
night  we  struck  one  of  them  a  severe  blow,  which  I 
fear  has  set  the  schooner  leaking  somewhat.  Cape 
Walsinofham  was  in  sii^ht  this  noon. 

July  21. — The  weather  is  very  bad.  We  have 
strons:  winds  and  thick  fos^.  The  Florence  is  under 
close -reefed  sails,  and  we  are  beating  at  random 
through  the  fog.  I  hoped  last  night  that  we  were 
clear  of  ice,  but  we  still  tind  plenty  of  it,  and  it  is 
heavy,  there  being  many  bergs,  making  navigation 
dangerous. 


July  22. — The  weather  is  still  foggy.  Yesterday, 
toward  evening,  the  wind  died  away,  leaving  us  almost 
becalmed.  The  air  still  remained  densely  thick  with 
fog,  l)ut  we  went  groping  alo'.ig  among  the  floes. 
Upon  going  to  the  mast-head  I  could  see  no  outlet 
ahead; — nothing  l)ut  a  mass  of  lieavy  floes.  To  the 
north-east  there  was  the  appearance  of  water,  but 
liow  much  it  was  impossible  to  tell.  I  determined  to 
get  the  vessel  there  if  possil)le.  All  hands  were  cidled, 
and  both  boats  were  put  ahead  to  tow  and  assist  in 


r  V 


ANNANATOOK  TO  DISCO. 


1C3 


tackini>:  the  schooner,  as  It  was  almost  calm  and  there 
was  but  small  l)eating  space  between  the  floes.  One 
boat  was  manned  by  the  Esquimaux ;  the  other  by  our 
own  crew.  By  their  aid  and  quick  work  we  managed 
to  iret  the  schoDuer  into  water  where  there  w^as  room 
to  work  her,  when  all  liands  were  called  on  board. 
Sail  was  made  to  beat  up  to  the  north-east  to  the  open 
^vater.  At  tliis  time  the  fog  shut  down  again,  but  I 
had  taken  the  bearings  of  the  water,  and,  having  a 
little  breeze,  I  supposed  I  would  soon  reach  it.  We 
now  took  in  the  flying-jil)  and  gafi'topsail,  hauled  the 
jib  to  the  mast,  and  lay-to. 

July  23. — Ice  in  everv  direction  ;  tliick  fog  and  rain  ; 
wind  from  the  south-east.  We  are  dodging  in  a  hole 
of  water.  How  nuich  water  or  how  much  ice  there  is 
around  us,  we  cannot  tell  in  this  thick  weather.  It  is 
weary  work.  Time  is  slipping  fast  and  it  is  impossible 
to  do  anvthini>:.  This  is  the  third  dav  of  thick  weather 
and  easterly  winds. 


July  24. — lleayy  wind  from  the  east ;  weather  thick 
and  rainy.  We  haye  been  beating  all  day  to  the  east 
through  the  broken  floes.  This  eyening,  at  7.30,  we 
tied  up  to  a  piece  of  ice.  The  weather  is  yery  hard. 
We  haye  a  head-wind  and  plenty  of  ice.  We  are  now 
in  latitude  IK]''  north,  longitude  59°  west.  There  ap- 
pears to  be  no  end  to  the  ice.     The  nights  are  some- 


[f  f 


Ml 


I 

i  t 


i    ! 


i  I 


i  1 


it 


1G4 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


what  (lark  at  midniglit,  and  that,  with  the  fog  and  a 
gale  of  wind,  renders  it  dangerous  to  attempt  to  work 
through  the  floating  masses.  We  have  been  all  day 
under  close-reefed  sails. 

July  25. — The  heavy  wind  from  the  east  continues. 
Last  u'vAit  we  were  busv  until  12  o'clock  trvinor  to 

O  «  I/O 

keep  the  vessel  from  collision  with  the  heavy  floes. 
There  is  quite  a  swell  under  the  ice,  and  it  is  very 
dangerous  to  let  the  schooner  get  between  two  floes 
or  bergs,  as  there  are  spurs  projecting  under  the  water 
from  them  all.  At  12  the  wind  died  away,  leaving  us 
fog  and  rain.  This  morning  the  sun  was  out,  but  the 
weather  had  a  threatenino;  look.  At  12  meridian  our 
latitude  was  (35°  55'  north  and  our  longitude  58°  west. 
It  is  the  only  day  since  our  departure  from  Niantilic 
"that  was  faxorable  for  an  observation.  After  12  it 
"commenced  to  blow,  with  rain  and  thick  weather. 
The  barometer  is  verv  low  and  still  inclined  down. 
Everybody  is  gloomy,  and  even  the  dogs  howl  in  their 
distress.  It  is,  indeed,  a  gloomy  and  cheerless  time. 
Kever  before  have  I  experienced  such  a  continuation 
of  bad  weather  on  this  coast. 

July  26.  — Cloudy  and  hazy;  fresh  breeze  iVom 
south-south-east.  At  10  A.  M.  we  cast  ofl'  our  lines 
from  the  piece  of  floe  to  which  we  had  been  fastened 
the  last  two  days.    We  then  made  sail  and  commenced 


.■** 


ANNANATOOK  TO  DISCO. 


IHf) 


working  to  windward.  The,  ice  is  quite  close,  and  a 
vessel  l()niJ:er  than  tlie  Florence  would  scarcely  work 
through  it.  Last  night,  at  12,  a  very  heavy  wind  pre- 
vailed. Yesterday  afternoon  one  of  the  Esfiuiniaux 
came  and  asked  me  to  k^t  one  of  the  women  ankoot 
for  better  weather.  I  could  see  that  thev  were  gettinic 
nervous  over  the  long  spell  of  had  weather ;  so,  to 
encoura<i:c  them,  I  consented  to  2^1  ve  her  a  skirt  as  a 
fee.  They  had  it  liot  and  heavy  hist  niglit.  The  re- 
sult was  somewhat  l)etter  weather  this  morning,  but 
the  wind  was  still  ahead.  We  were  at  noon  in  lati- 
tude 05'-^  ijiV  north,  longitude  58"  west. 


July  27. — Cloudy,  with  strong  breeze  from  the  south- 
south-west.  At  (S  o'clock  last  evening  we  succeeded 
in  irettiui!:  out  of  the  ice.  AVe  came  out  under  (;k)se- 
reefed  sails,  and  if  the  schooner  Florence  was  'U'cr  in 
danirer  of  havini>:  her  sides  stove  in,  she  was  then. 
We  pressed  on  all  the  canvas  she  could  bear  on  get- 
ting out,  so  as  to  make  an  opening  and  get  clear  oi' 
bergs  and  scattered  pieces,  but  at  1  o'clock  A.  xM.  the 
sea  was  so  heavy  and  the  wind  so  strong  that  we  were 
compelled  to  come  under  storm-sails.  The  poor  Es- 
quimaux and  dogs  suffer  a  great  deal,  as  tliey  fire  not 
accustomed  to  the  sea.  We  have  the  Esquimaux  and 
the  pu^jpies  battened  down  in  the  hold  of  the  vessel. 

July  28.— Hazy,  but  sun  shone,  with  light  breeze 


'f!  > 


1   I 

s    '" 


ll'i 


hi 


166 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


from  east  and  north-east*  We  kept  oft'  for  Pisco  yes- 
terday as  the  wind  moderated.  We  are  now  ahout 
eiijhtv-tive  miles  from  the  island,  and  are  rnnnins; 


wdth  light  wind. 


July  29. — Yesterday  afternoon  our  light  wind  and 
fair  weather  did  not  last  lonff.  Toward  evenino^  the 
wind  commenced  to  blow  from  the  north-north-east, 
and  bv  2  a.  m.  we  \vere  under  storm-sails.  The  weather 
had  a  most  ominous  ap[)earance.  The  wind  swept 
down  upon  us  with  great  force.  Shortly  after  a  dense 
black  bank  of  cloud  came  swee[)ing  down  toward  the 
scljooner,  and  we  were  soon  enveloped  in  as  dense  a 
l)lack  fog  as  I  ever  saw.  The  fog  had  a  tendency  to 
kill  the  wind  somewhat,  but  we  were  under  storm-sails 
all  night.  This  morning  we  set  foresail  and  inainsail, 
both  close  reefed,  with  bonnet  out  of  jib.  At  10  a.  m. 
the  sea  is  still  quite  bad  and  the  weather  no  better; 
thick  and  rainy.  We  are  near  land  and  not  far  from 
Disco  Island,  but  dare  not  steer  for  it  in  this  dense 
weather  and  heavy  sea.  This  evening  tlie  wind  w^as 
from  the  westei'n  quarter,  directly  on  the  land,  but  J 
am  very  uncertain  whether  it  will  remain  there.  One 
of  our  dogs  died  or  was  killed  last  night. 

July  30. — Cloudy,  with  light  breeze  from  the  north- 
north-east  and  quite  a  heavy  swell.  Kain  fell  heavily 
all  night  and  the  air  w^as  thick.     This  morning  the 


ANNANATOOK  TO.DIfeCO. 


167 


was 


coast  of  Greenland  was  in  siglit,  about  fifty  miles  dis- 
tant. The  wind  is  direetly  aliead,  and  it  is  liglit;  tlie 
swell  is  heavy.  We  are  making  hut  little  headway. 
Wc3  have  now  lost  two  dogs.  A  great  many  hirds  are 
in  si«:ht,  and  we  have  passed  hundreds. 

July  31.— Cloudy,  and  very  thick  at  times.  Yes- 
terday evening  the  wind  hauled  to  the  north.  Kam 
has  commenced  falling  again,  and  the  atmos[)liere  has 
become  foa:gy.  I  can  only  guess  as  to  our  [)osition,  as 
it  has  been  impossible  to  get  observations.  At  11 
o'clock  we  sighted  the  island.  We  made  Fortune 
Bay,  a  short  distance  to  the  west  of  the  harbor  of  Disco. 
The  wind  left  us  at  5  o'clock  a.  m.  I  called  all  hands 
and  sent  two  boats  ahead  to  tow.  The  air  liad  become 
so  thick  that  at  times,  though  close  in,  we  could  not 
see  the  shore;  but  we  pulled  through  and  managed  to 
get  safely  anchored  at  8  o'clock  a.  m.  Here  we  find  a 
banish  bark,  but  no  American  vessel. 

August  1.  — Cloudy  and  foggy;  wind  soutli-east. 
Two  steamers  hove  in  sight  to-day  from  the  north. 
One  came  into  the  harbor  and  towed  out 'the  Danish 
bark,  the  captain  of  which  is  bound  to  Upernavik.  ^rhe 
Danisli  and  Scotch  vessels  have  l)een  unable  to  reach 
tJpernavik  this  season  on  account  of  ice.  This  lias 
been  one  of  the  most  icy  seasons  known  for  many 
years.     We  caught  quite  a  quantity  of  codfish  to-day. 


168 


THE  CRUIgE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


lit 

t;; 


jl 


;:if 


U.       f 


^vlnc;ll,  of  course,  iniido  a  feast  for  us.    We  are  looking 
anxiously  for  the  expedition. 

Auii'ust  5. — The  weather  durinc^  the  last  four  days 
has  ])een  very  tine,  and  we  haye  taken  advantai>'e  of  it 
to  paint  our  vessel.  Every  morning  the  Esfjuiniaux 
are  sent  to  feed  the  dogs,  which  have  been  landed  on 
one  of  tlie  outer  islands,  and  there  they  remain  until 
niii'lit.  We  have  no  conmiunication  whatever  with 
the  people  on  shore.  On  our  arrival  here  Governor 
Smith  was  absent.  One  or  two  of  liis  subordinates 
to-day  cimie  alonm-side  and  informed  me  that  tlie  Gov- 
ernor  had  left  orders  that  there  should  be  no  connnu- 
nication  ijetween  tlie  vessel  and  shore.  I  asked  the 
reason  of  this  strange  order,  and  was  informed  that 
one  Captain  Adams  of  the  Scotch  steamer  Ardu'  had 
been  here  in  the  early  spring  and  told  the  Governor 
that  the  Esquimaux  and  crew  of  the  schooner  Florence 
were  all  diseased.  I  asked  permission  to  land  my 
doses  remote  from  the  town,  which  was  accorded. 
The  following  day  one  of  the  inhabitants  came  oii'  in 
•a  kyack,  paddled  alongside,  and  brought  me  some  late 
papers.  Messrs.  Sherman  and  Kumlein,  with  an  Es- 
quimaux crew,  w^ent  to  the  Blue  Mountains  to-day, 
for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  something  about  the 
meteoric  stones  found  there. 


k\\ 


August  6. — Cloudy  <iud  foggy.    It  is  difficult  to  tell, 


\  t 


ANNANATOOK  TO  DISCO, 


ino 


ill  this  little  biisiii,  wliicli  way  the  wind  is  tVoni.  Messrs. 
Slienium  aiul  Jvunilein  luivc  not  ri'turned  yet.  We 
were  eni[)lnyed  to-day  scraping  our  masts  an<l  l)()onis. 
I  feel  very  niucli  disappointed  at  the  non-a[i[iearan(;e 
of  the  expedition  an<l  at  havini?  received  no  word  from 
Captain  Ilowgate  or  from  home,  'fhere  is  a  I'umor 
here  that  the  American  Uovurnment  has  1  (ought  tlie 
Enijclish  steamer  Pnndoi''i,  and  that  she  is  to  come  here. 


Ancrust  7. — Verv  fine  weather.  Having  about  all 
our  work  done,  tlie  crew  were  oii'  fishing  to-day,  to 
make  our  provisions  liold  out.  Messrs.  Sherman  and 
Kundein  returned  this  morning  at  4  o'clock.  They 
found  the  place  at  which  Xordcnskjohl  discovered  me- 
teoric stones  and  brought  back  a  few  specimens  ;  very 
small  ones,  however.  They  were  told  by  a  native 
whom  thev  found  encamped  near  by  that  he  knew  the 
locality  of  two  large  ones.  If  the  weather  permits  we 
will  trv  to  find  them.  Mr.  Kundein  has  been  quite 
successful  hi  his  line,  as  he  has  got  several  rare  birds. 

August  8.— Quite  fine  weather.  Liist  night  it  was 
verv  foiTirv.  We  were  emploved  to-day  getting  fresh 
water  and  fisliinii:  foi-  codfish,  on  which  latter  nc  dme 
everv  dav.  We  made  a  trade  to-day  for  a  i>iece  of 
meteoric  stone  from  the  Blue  Mountains.  One  ot  the 
natives  brought  it.    It  will  weigh  about  two  [)0unds. 


U      V 

i  :' 


\H 


I 


'  il  4 


170 


THE  CRUISE  or  THE  FLORENCE. 


Aucjiist  9. — Yery  fine  wctither.  We  liave,  of  course, 
daylight  during  most  of  the  twenty-four  houi's,  and 
nearly  continuous  sunsliine.  If  it  were  not  for  the 
mosquitoes  one  could  enjoy  a  ranihhi  on  the  shore. 
They  number  millions,  and  eyen  attack  us  on  the  yes- 
sel.  Several  of  the  crew  are  fairly  poisoned  with  their 
bites.  Messrs.  Sherman  and  Kumleiri  again  went  to 
the  Blue  Mountains  to-day,  and  were  accompanied  by 
a  native  boat-crew.  They  were  provided  with  tackle, 
crowl)ars  and  rope,  to  raise  any  meteoric  stones  that 
they  may  find,  if  not  too  heavy.  If  they  find  any 
stones  so  heavy  that  they  cannot  raise  them,  I  will  go 
down  with  the  schooner,  if  the  weather  permits,  and 
render  assistance.     A  Danish  briir  entered  ihe  harbor 


&» 


last  even  ins:. 


Ausfust  10.  —  Very  line  weather.  The  crew  were 
off  fishing  to-day.  We  must  catch  fish  for  dog -food, 
as  we  have  no  other.  The  name  of  the  Danish  brio;  is 
the  Whalefish,  and  the  captain's  name  is  Kettles.  The 
captain  was  on  board  last  evening.  lie  cannot  speak 
much  English,  nor  can  I  much  Danish,  but  we  man- 
age to  understand  each  other.  This  morning  a  small 
schooner  of  about  ten  tons  came  in. 


m 


August  11. — Cloudy  and  cool.  It  is  the  only  day 
since  we  came  here  on  which  we  have  not  been  mo- 
lested by  mosquitoes.     The  wind  is  from  the  north 


ANNANATOOK  TO  DISCO. 


171 


and  east,  and  the  jitni08[»hove  is  soiuewliat  fogi^n'  ^^^'^'»' 
the  hmd.  Messrs.  Hhenuau  and  Ivuuilehi  returned 
last  evening.  Sherman  found  two  fair  specimens  of 
what  is  supposed  to  he  meteoric  stone.  •  Kundein  se- 
cured a  tounkfish  and  some  few  birds,  lie  also  adiUul 
somewhat  to  his  collection  in  botany.  It  is  Sunday, 
and  the  little  bell  on  shore  summoned  the  peoi)le  to 
church.  We  have  no  conmumica^ion  with  them. 
Every  day  the  boats  from  shore,  containing  tbe  half- 
breeds  of' the  settlement,  come  around  the  schooner  to 


_^  ize  upon  the  West  Land  Esquimaux,  but  none  of 
these  visitors  are  allowed  on  board,  llicre  is  now^ 
scarcely  a  pure-blooded  Esquimaux  on  the  coast  of 
Greenland.     Light  hair,  red  hair,  and  l)lue  eyes  are 


•ommon.     No  expedition  } 


et.    We  are  out  of  fuel. 


August  12.— Strong  wind  to-day,  but  i)leasant  witb- 
al.  We  were  employed  to-day  getting  water.  We 
will  get  under  way  on  the  15th,  if  the  weather  is  favor- 
able. 

August  13.— Cloudy  weather,  witli  a  strong  l)reeze 
from  the  north-east.  We  were  employed  to-day  fish- 
ing. Mr.  Kumlein  is  repainting. the  name  of  the 
schooner,  which  had  been  erased  when  she  received 
her  new  coat  of  paint,  soon  after  our  arriN'al  here. 
Mr.  Smith,  the  inspector,  sent  a  boat  yesterday  after- 
noon with  a  request  for  me  to  come  on  shore,  as  he 


I- 1 

0. 


172 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLOllEXCE. 


mi 


wished  to  see  mo.  Tie  savs  tluit  i\\Q  surgeon  and  cap- 
tain of  the  steamer  /4/Y7/V'  informed  him  tliat  there  was 
a  great  deal  of  sickness  among  the  Es([niniaux  in  tlie 
gulf,  and  tliaf  it  was  only  to  protect  his  own  Esquimaux 
from  disease  tluit  he  issued  the  order  forhiddiuij:  com- 
munication  with  us.  I  shall  get  wliat  I  need  liere, — 
some  little  coal,  some  sugar,  coffee,  -nid  t()!)acco. 
Then  I  nuist  take  tlie  Esf[uimaux  and  theii*  dogs  to 
their  mitive  land.  After  that  we  shall  he  liomeward 
bound  !  Mr.  Smith  informs  me  tliat  he  read  in  a 
Danish  paper  that  tlie  expedition  had  been  postponed 
until  next  Year. 

August  14. — We  an;  liaving  another  spell  of  l)ad 
weather.  The  wind  is  from  the  north-east,  hiU  it  is 
onlv  local,  as  there   is  a  heavv  sea  coniimr  from  tlie 


south  and  east.     Rain   is  fall  in; 


Mr.  Kundein,  Mr 


Sherman,  and  myself  wei'e  on  shore  to-day,  and"dined 
with  the  inspector.  This  is  the  first  sign  of  civiliza- 
tion we  have  had  the  [)leasure  of  seeing  for  more  than 
a  year.  Mr.  Smith  has  a  vcm'v  idettsant  family,  and  so 
has  Ml".  Fingers,  the  goyernment  store-kee[»er.  T 
bought  of  the  inspector  one  and  a  half  tons  of  coal, 
forty  pounds  of  <'otfee,  forty  pounds  of  sngiii',  and 
twenty-five  pounds  of  tobacco. 

The  Danish  brig  left  early  this  morning.  I  exjuM-ted 
to  leave  to-morrow,  but  Mr.  Smith  is  looking  constant- 
ly for  dispatches  by  two  vessels  that  sailed  from  Den- 


AXNANATOOK  TO  DISCO. 


173 


raark  in  July,  and  lie  tliinks  tlier"  will  l)e  letters  ibr 
the  Flnrcrire  by  thein.  Tlie  straits  liavc  not  been  so 
full  of  ice  for  nianv  vears. 

I       I' 

AuiTUst  15. — Very  l)a(l  weather.  Tlie  wind  strouo; 
from  tbe  soutli-east.  It  is  rainiuij;  also.  We  did  notb- 
iuir  to-dav,  as  it  was  storniv.  We  will  wait  till  better 
weatlu'r  before  we  ^e*  our  coal.  kv. 


Auixust  18. — Tbe'weatber  for  tlie  last  three  days  has 
been  auvthinii;  but  sjood.  Wf  haw  had  stiouij^  wind 
and  rain  eontinuousiy.  To-day  we  made  an  attempt 
to  feed  our  doers,  but  were  unable  to  etfeet  a  landing 


on 


account  of  the  heavv  sea.     It   rained  very 


hard. 


le  wind  here  in  the  harbor  is  ea>tward.  l)Ut  ontside 
it  must  be  from  the  soudi-east,  or  we  wonld  not  have 
had  such  a  sea.  The  inspector  is  looking  every  mo- 
ment for  late  letters  from  Denmark,  and  we  ho[»e  to 
I'eceive  some  also. 


Auf>'ust  21. — Yesterday  we   had   <dear  weather,  for 
the  iirst  time  in  sineral  davs.     To-day  it  is  also  pleas- 


ai 


it.     Neither  letters  nor  vessels  lui\e  sirriveo 


Tl 


le 


inspector  fears  for  the  safety  of  the  vessel 


W 


ol 


course,  ci 


uinot  wait  much  l()ni»:er 


.»; 


174 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


mf 


J^oMfewARD    Bound. 

August  22. — This  evening,  at  8  o'clock,  we  got  un- 
derway. About  the  time  we  were  starting  word  came 
from  the  shore  that  a  Danish  vessel  was  in  siijht.  The 
inspector  came  on  beard  and  wished  me  to  await  her 
arrival,  as  he  thought  she  must  have  letters  for  us. 
But  I  had  waited  lonii;  enou2:h  and  was  determined  to 
go.  I  bought  of  the  in;spector  a  half-ton  more  coal, 
forty  pounds  of  sugar,  forty  pounds  of  cotfee,  twenty- 
tive  pounds  of  tobacco,  and  three  hundred  and  seven- 
ty-tive  pounds  of  Ijread.  If  the  pack-ice  is  at  Cum- 
berland now,  we  may  be  a  moiKli  landing  the  Esqui- 
maux and  the  dogs,  and  it  is  oidy  prudent  that  we 
should  ijrovide  for  such  an  emersrencv.  On  irettinii: 
out  to  the  island  where  our  doers  liave  l)een  domiciled 
duriuii-our  stav  at  Disco,  I  sent  a  l)oat  for  them,  and 
as  soon  as  thev  were  on  hoard  we  started  down  the 
straits. 

August  23. — Weatlier  quite  line;  wind  to  the  north- 
west. We  have  sio;hted  ice.  and  are  steering;  a  little 
on  the  coast  of  Greenland  to  avoid  it. 


i 


Auifust  24.     We  liave  a  fresh  hreeze  from  the  cast- 


HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


175 


south-east,  accompanied  bv  rain.  We  were  UTider 
storm-sails  in  the  evening  or  early  night.  The  wind 
is  increasinsc  *uul  the  rain  continues. 


Au"-ust  25.— Strong  wind  from  south-east.  AYe  are 
under  storm-sails.  The  weather  is  rainy  and  thieve. 
The  Esquimaux  are  l)arred  down  under  the  hatches. 
The  doo-s  sutler  a  great  deal  from  the  sea  washing  over 
them  and  from  hunger. 

August  26.— T1ie  weather  to-day  was,  if  anything, 
worse  than  vester<]av. 


August  z 


\A\ 


rht 


of  th 


I'St  I 


niirht  was  one  ot  the  worst  l  ever 
passed  at  sea.  The  wind  l)lew  heavily  and  the  sea  ran 
high.  We  are  surrounded  hy  many  icelx'rgs.  wliich 
we  see  occasionally  through  the  storm.  The  greater 
part  of  the  time,  however,  we  ramiot  see  more  than 
ten  yards  from  the  schooner.  So  far  we  have  (hifted 
clear  of  everything.  Hie  gaU'  hegan  to  al)atc  this 
afternoon.  The  wind  hauled  to  the  south  and  the 
atmosphere  cleared  a  httk^  At  8.30  i'.  m.  hmd  was 
sighted.  I  instantly  wore  the  vessel  around,  put  the 
jib  on,  shook  one  reef  out  of  the  foresail,  and,  with  her 
head  offshore,  let  her  go.  The  sea  was  running  very 
high,  and  at  every  plunge  the  schooner's  head  would 
disai)i)ear  beneatli  the  waves;  so  we  had  to  reef  thi> 


-**      \ 


176 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


foresail  again;  with  bob-jib,  close-reefed  foresail,  and 
storni-staysail  we  worked  offshore. 

August  81. —  For  nearly  three  days  we  luive  had 
quite  calm  weather.  The  vvind  was  very  light,  and 
fog  pix'vaik'd  the  greater  part  of  the  time.  Last  night 
we  doubled  Cape  Mercy,  and  readied  IS'iantilic  Har- 
bor at  3  o'clock  p.  M.  to-day.  Here  we  found  the 
American  schooner  Franklin,  of  ^' ew  Bedford,  Massa- 
chusetts. We  heard  from  Captain  Church,  of  the 
Franklin,  that  a  bark  from  tlio  same  place  is  at  the 
Kickertons. 


,1        i 


\J 

■ 

Septendjer  2. — Yesterday,  being  Suiuhiy,  we  rested, 
and  indeed  the  men  need  rest;  for  they  liave  had  but 
little  for  the  last  nine  davs.  To-dav  I  discharired  the 
Esquinuuix.  I  gave  them  one  boat,  four  guns,  all  the 
remaining  amiuunition'  two  opera-glasses,  one  suit  of 
clotliing  each,  netirlv  all  of  the  Danish  bread  we  l)()uo'ht 
at  Disco,  some  little  molasses,  and  one  tent.  We  will 
now  get  water  and  prepare  for  the  home  vo}age. 

8epteml)er  8.  -We  have  been  quite  idle  during  the 
last  six  days.  The  wind  has  been  pi'incipally  from  the 
sout^  svhen  a  v:alm  did  not  itrevail.  Yesterdav  a  rain- 
storm  came,  accoiupanied  by  very  strong  wind  from 
the  south-east.     To-day  the  wind  is  fi'om  the  west.     I 


IIOMEVVARD  BOUND. 


177 


shall  wait  until  the  full  of  the  inoou  hefore  starling 
For  home. 

September  11.— We  have  a  high  wind  from  the 
north-west  to-day.  I  intended  to  start  for  liome 
this  morning,  but  the  wind  blew  so  strong  that  it  was 
impossible  to  get  our  anchors.  Yestenhiy  we  had  a 
soutli-east  snow-storm.  The  land  is  covered  with 
snow,  and  it  looks  like  early  winter.  The  fresli-watei' 
ponds  are  freezing.  lee  is  also  making  on  our  decks. 
The  water  has  fallen  in  temperature  the  last  three  days 
from  plus  38°  to  plus  33°. 

September  12.— All  yesterday  and  up  to  12  o'clock 
last  night  the  wind  blew  from  the  north-west  with  ter- 
rible  violence.  The  vessel  tr<>mbled  in  every  timl)er. 
Both  anchors  are  ahead  and  both  chains  are  out  their 
full  leno:th.  At  times  the  snow  was  so  dense  that  we 
could  sc^e  only  a  few  yards.  At  12  midnight  the  wind 
abated  and  hauled  to  the  south-east.  It  is  still  snow- 
ins:  heavdy.  I  wish  to  get  under  way,  but  cannot  m 
su^h  weather.     It  is  very  cold  and  ice  is  making  last. 

Sei)tember  13.  —Yesterday  afternoon  the  wind  vecn-- 
ed  again  to  the  west.  At  3.30  o'clock  we  got  under 
way.'^  At  5  o'clock  the  wind  blew  heavily,  accomiui- 
nied  at  times  with  snow.  We  are  running  under  close- 
reefed  foresail  and  bonnet  out  of  jib.  Toward  nnd- 
12 


I 


."  i       ! 


178 


TlIK  CllUlSE  or  THE  FLOllENX'E. 


iii^'ht  tlie  storm  iiliatod  ji  little.  Snow  stopped  tailing, 
and  I  am  o-jud  of  it;  i'or  tiiere  are  manv  berg's  about. 
The  sea  is  very  lieavy,  and  as  it  sweeps  across  our 
decks  it  leaves  tliem  covered  with  ]>ash-ice.  One  sea 
came  over  the  stern,  and  a  portion  of  it  landed  in  the 
cabin.  To-dav  the  weatlier  is  better,  but  we  have  a 
strou":  breeze  from  the  west.  At  noon  we  siijrhted 
Lady  Fraidvlin  Island.  There  ai'e  luanv  ])erffs  here- 
about.  Yesterday,  on  coming  out  of  the  harbor,  we 
spoke  the  Ullm  F.  Shnmorts^  schooner,  Captaiu  James 
Budinii'ton.  lie  came  on  board  and  informed  us  that 
his  vessel  passed  last  winter  in  Kepulse  Bay.  The 
whalino;  havini^^  failed  there,  he  lias  come  to  the  srulf 
in  the  hope  of  getting  something  this  fall.  Captain 
vSpicer's  bark  Nile  is  also  here,  and  has  likewise  failed. 
The  schooner  Era,  Captain  Miner,  is  at  New-gum- 
eute,  clean.  All  three  vessels  wintered  in  Hudson's 
Straits  last  winter. 


September  14. — Weather  quite  tine  to-day.  Yester- 
day and  last  night  we  had  a  strong  breeze  from  the 
west  and  noilh-west.  A  very  heavy  sea  is  running. 
We  ]ia\'e  i)assed  many  bergs  and  smaller  pieces  of  ice. 
Tlie  small  pieces  are  the  most  dangerous,  as  it  is  diili- 
cult  to  see  them  in  the  night,  especially  when  we  are 
runuino'  in  heavv  weather.  It  is  ditiicult  at  times  to 
distinguish  ice  from  sea-caps.  At  noon  we  were  in 
latitude  60°  10'.    We  have  made  a  run  in  the  last  two 


HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


170 


(la^'s  of"  tliree  hniidrerl  and  fifty  luilos.  Ice  made  (piito 
freely  last  ni2;lit,  l)iit  tlie  temporatiiro  is  moderating  to- 
day. Many  l)eri2:.s  were  in  siii^ht  tliis  afternoon.  The 
barometer  is  hiu'h.  and  the  cirrus  clouds  denote  more 
wind.  Our  longitude  is  approximately  <>2°  west.  We 
are  about  sixty  miles  of!:"  Cape  Oliidleigh,  the  south 
cape  of  Hudson's  Straits.  We  had  snow-si|ualls 
tlu-ou2fh  the  night. 

Septeuiber  15. — ^Last  evening  the  wind  veered  to 
the  east.  The  clouds  had  a  dai'k  and  threatening 
appearance,  and  we  all  h)oked  for  another  storm. 
Throusfh  the  nio-ht,  however,  tlie  weatlier  remained 
very  moderate ;  indeed,  nearly  calm.  We  liad  occa- 
vsional  snow-squalls,  but  there  was  only  slight  wind  in 
them.  The  weather  has  been  calm  nearly  all  day  to- 
day. This  evenini>:  we  liave  a  light  breeze  from  tlie 
north.  We  still  see  bergs.  Our  longitude,  by  obser- 
vation, is  60°  7'  west;  latitude  at  noon  ;38°  59'. 


September  1(3. — Cloudy,  licavy- looking  weather. 
Tlie  wind  this  afternoon  liauled  from  north-west  to 
aouth-west.  We  had  considerable  snow  and  a  very 
strong  breeze  last  niglit.  In  fact,  the  wind,  if  we  had 
not  been  runninii'  off  bef  )re  it,  would  have  lieen  called 
a  ofale.  One  beri?  was  seen  last  niglit.  Many  land 
birds  are  around  us,  some  ol'  which  come  on   b(»ar<l. 


180 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


rest  Hwliile,  and  then  depart  landward.     Latitude  at 
noon  57°  9'  north,  longitude  58°  25'  west. 

September  17. — Yesterday  evening  the  wind  hauled 
to  the  south-east.  It  soon  increased  to  a  strong  breeze, 
accompanied  by  rain.  The  temperature,  whicli  has 
l)een  quite  low,  has  moderated.  Tlio  wind  in  the  night 
l)rought  us  down  to  storm-sails,  l)ut  it  has  decreased 
to-dav.  It  is  rainino-.  We  have  seen  no  ice  since 
nii>;ht  before  last. 

Septeml)er  18. — We  had  cahii  weather  last  night. 
This  morning    at  4  o'clock,  the  wind  ])reezed  from 

the  soutli-south-cast  and  brou«'ht  a  verv  dense  fos*  with 

~  I'  ~ 

it.     We  are  making  very  slow  progress.    The  wind  is 
dead  ahead. 


September  19. — Yesterday  evening  the  wind  blew 
strong  fi'om  the  soutli-south-east,  with  rain.  Toward 
midnii^ht  it  veered  to  tlie  south-west  and  brouii^ht  the 
Fht'cnce  down  to  storm-sails.  This  morning  it  was 
more  moderate,  but  was  still  strong.  We  kept  oil:' 
under  three  reefed  sails.  The  day  is  clear  and  bright. 
A  heavv  sea  is  I'uimini^r.  At  noon  our  latitude  was 
55°  46'  north,  longitude  53°  39'  west. 

September  20. — Wind  strong  from  the  south.  The 
vessel  is  under  storm -sails.     Raining.     The  weather 


HOMEWARD  HOUND. 


181 


is  the  worst  tliat  can  be  imagined.  One  cannot  con- 
ceive anything  equal  to  it.  One  storm  follows  another 
in  quick  succession.  Night  after  niglit  we  do  not 
know  what  it  is  to  undress  to  sleep.  It  seems  as  though 
all  our  ettbrts  are  required  to  keep  the  schooner  above 
water.     ' 


8eptend)er  21. — We  were  under  storm-sails  all  night. 
Toward  morning  the  wind  veered  to  the  west  and  staid 
in  that  quarter  two  or  three  hours.  It  was  very  light, 
however.  At  daybreak  it  hauled  to  the  east,  l)ut  con- 
tinued light.  As  there  was  a  heavy  sea  running,  it 
was  impossible  to  make  any  sail.  At  9  a.  m.  I  i)ut 
three  reefed  sails  on  the  vessel.  There  were  then  a 
strono;  breeze  from  the  south-east,  a  tliick  fog,  and  a 
heavy  swell,  from  yesterday's  and  last  night's  gale. 
If  this  weather  continues  much  longer  we  shall  all  be 
web-footed.  At  3  p.  m.  we  again  hove-to  under  close- 
reefed  foresail,  with  the  wind  about  south  true  and 
south-w^est  by  compass.  The  variation  is  45°  to  the 
west.     Latitude  55°  north,  longitude  51°  west. 

September  22.— All  last  night  the  wind  raged  furi- 
ouslv.     Wv  had  no  sail  on  the  schooner  except  close- 

t.' 

reefed  foresail,  with  the  throat  hauled  down  and  the 
storm-staysail  lowered,  so  as  to  expose  as  little  canvas 
as  possible  to  the  fury  of  the  blast.  Toward  morning 
the  wind  abated,  and  at  (>  A..M.  it  had  ceased  entirely. 


182 


THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  FLORENCE. 


We  are  now  lying  rolling  in  the  licixvy  swell  left  by 
the  giile.     The  weather  is  cloudy  and  heavy-looking. 


11 


Septenil)er  28. — ^ye  lay  all  day  yesterday  wallowing 
I  the  swell.    At  3  p.  m.  a  heavy,  dense  fog  set  in,  and 


fi 


til 


•th-east,  l)riniri 


I  Of 


at  8  a  breeze  car 
The  v'C'Ather  soon  became  squally,  the  wind  coming 
from  north-east  and  north.  The  nii^ht  was  intenselv 
dark  and  stormy.  At  11  p.  m.  the  jibstay  parted. 
As  this  supported  our  mast,  quick  work  was  necessary 
to  secure  it.  All  hands  were  called  and  all  sail  was 
taken  off  the  vessel,  and  she  was  kept  directly  before 
tlie  wind,  to  continue  that  course  until  such  time  as 
the  mast  could  be  secured  bv  tackle.  In  doins;  this 
she  reeled  heavily  and  put  three  men  under  water,  but 
fortunately^  the  plunge  did  no  other  damage.  By  1 
o'clock  A.  M.  evervthiui?  had  been  secured,  and  we  re- 
sumed  our  course  under  the  squaresail.  This  morning 
the  wind  was  north,  or  a  little  west  of  north.  I  set  a 
close-reefed  foresail.     Raining  and  blowing  fresh. 

September  24. — Yesterday,  at  11.30  a.  m.,  the  wind 
hauled  to  the  north-east  and  rapidly  increased  in  force. 
A  very  heavy  sea  was  running.  At  12  meridian  we 
came  under  storm-sails. 

Septeml)er  25. — The  gale  has  been  most  terrific. 
At  times  we  thou<xht  tlie, littk^  schooner  could  not  live 


^ni"  I  •iwi^mm-^tmrn^^mntn'M 


HOMEWARD  nuUNI). 


183 


tbrougli  it.  It  nioderatcMl  this  eveninu^  and  niiii  com- 
iiieiiced  falliii<^.  At  11  i>.  m,  W('  k('|>t  olt  under  close- 
reefed  forej^ail,  storni-stay«ail,  and  bonnet  otl:' jih. 


September  ili). — Came  to  anebor  at  St.  Jobns,  Xew- 
foundbmd,  and  liere  will  rest  awbile  to  reeiTiit.  Wbile 
bere  we  will  repair  oui'  Jibstay  and  bend  u  new  lore- 
sail.    In  sucb  weatber  as  we  biive  bad  we  need  every- 


tbing  new  and  strong. 


